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Finger of Fate V, 5.8-10 C2
October 7-8, 2014
Totals ~9.0 Miles, ~4,000 Gain.
Intimidating, painful, dirty, scary, and enjoyable are all words that I have used to describe The Fishers. Perhaps the longest adjective to obtain and appreciate in that repertoire was "enjoyable."
My introduction to the Fishers started with the Kingfisher. Pouring over photos of the four most predominate towers, I never thought I would actually get to climb them all. The Kingfisher was the easiest and most straightforward of the most prominent four towers. The climb was easily accomplished in a day so how hard could the rest of the towers be?
Brain, Noah and I worked together well on the Kingfisher and we were excited to attempt Echo within months of completing The Kingfisher. Pitch 5 on Echo was a humbling experience for me as I took a 20 foot whipper 400 feet off the ground severing a tendon in my middle finger. It took me 3 months to finally go to a doctor after the climb to figure out that I severed the tendon. Somehow after my fall, we pressed upward to the summit. Small and exposed, Echo's summit was rewarding.
Being traumatized with my fall on Echo, it took me over a year to return to Fishers. After Echo, I thought I would never return to the mud and scare fest that the Fishers offered. I even considered to stop aid climbing. My free climbing had even stopped as the severed tendon alone took over 6 months to heal.
Without a desire to return to the Fishers, I decided to try another aid tower in "solid" rock (Tower of Babel in Entrada sandstone) before I stopped aid climbing all together. Surprisingly, the climb was extremely enjoyable. Maybe aid climbing isn't all that bad.
I'm not exactly sure why I decided to return to the Fisher to climb Cottontail. Maybe it was the persistence of Noah and his desire to climb all of the Fishers. Psyche can be contagious.
Cottontail, without a doubt, was perhaps one of the wildest adventures I ever took a ride on. Partner schedules, partner bailings, injuries and falls all resulted in a climb that took over a month to complete over several weekends. Being a less traveled route, the climbing was really muddy, dirty and questionable. Somehow I ended up with the crux pitch of the climb which was astonishingly mentally taxing. Despite how extremely scary the climbing was, I felt I was finally starting to "learn" how to aid climb in the Fishers.
Cottontail on the right.
Climbing on Cottontail
Climbing on Cottontail
Cottontail climbing.
Pulling the summit mantle on Cottontail was one of the most rewarding feelings as I transcended. Since Noah and Brian had already climbed The Titan, it was going to be difficult to find partners for a party of three. Especially for the mud and choss that the Fishers offers.
David, who joined us on Cottontail, was ready to climb the Titan but we didn't have a third and we tried our first attempt this last spring but we weren't psyched after the first pitch. Plus, I was distracted on trying to descend a possible new canyon in the Moab area which I was trying to included in my first guidebook.
We bailed off of the Titan and enjoyed a descent of one of Moab's finest canyons.
SGR Slot
Naturally, we wanted to return. Luckily, David found a third who was interested in climbing the Finger of Fate. With three people, things were going to go better. David and I car-pooled from Denver late on the 6th arriving at the Fishers parking around 1 AM.
October 7, 2014
Titan silhouette
Casually, we woke up, arranged our rack and started our hike towards the Titan. I'm always baffled by how many towers can soar several hundred feet in such a short distance as we hiked to the base of the climb. Paul, our third, geared up to free climb the first half of the first pitch. He quickly gained ground, and hauled up the aid rack on his tag line for a short section of aid to finish the pitch.
Free climbing on pitch 1.
Pitch 1
Aiding on pitch 1
I was slated to lead the crux third pitch so I took pitch 2 as a warm up. Right off of the anchors appeared to be questionable placements but offset cams made the C2 climbing fairly mellow. Getting back into the grove of aid climbing is always a chore.
Looking down pitch 2.
Once I fixed the lines for the second pitch, Paul jugged and cleaned the pitch. I re-racked and headed up the crux third pitch. After two pins, the aid climbing got tricky. I placed a questionable tri-cam in a pocket and started to weigh it. POP. Well, that was a comforting feeling. With more care, I replace the cam and tried again. Ok, that was a bit scary. The climbing commenced upward.
Offset cams were a game changer. Most of the placements were really good as I neared the anchor. That's when the rock turned into choss. A shallow cobbled mud seam left me scratchin'. Nuts weren't going to work so I tried my only ball nut in the thin seam. The ball nut was too small but the action of triggering the ball nut removed grit from the seam. I "cleaned" the crack just large enough for a white/purple metolious offset would fit. I started to weight the cam where I could see the lobes of the cam cracking the rock/mud around the piece. I firmly lifted up on the cam and it popped right out. Ok, now that it's clean, I'll try again.
Crux aid section on pitch 3. Lovely rock.
The piece set and I stepped upward. Warm and fuzzies. I pulled a scary mantle and a few more interesting placements and I was at the chains. Even though the pitch was the same length and harder, it felt faster and not as difficult as I had expected. The crux pitch was finished. We fixed two ropes for the first three pitches and rappelled down.
View from the top of pitch 3
Looking down pitch 3
Paul cleaning pitch 3
Love that view
Paul on the top of pitch 3.
We hiked back to the Fishers parking lot satisfied with a half a days work.
Oh aid racks.
October 8, 2014
With 5 pitches left to climb, we decided on an alpine start from the Fishers Lot. We woke up at 4:45 AM and made our way down the all so familiar Fisher Towers trail at 5:20 AM. The day was already starting out sublimely as we hiked towards the shadow of the Titan under the peaking lunar eclipse.
Arriving at first light, we started our 300 foot jug to the top of pitch 3. David racked and started his airy 5.6 traverse to a seam on pitch 4. A Layton Kor bolt followed by two interesting fixed tri-cams led him to our first decent belay ledge.
David excited on pitch 4.
Hope that tri-cam holds....
Fixed gear on pitch 4.
Paul took over for pitch 5 - a mostly free pitch. An offwidth finish led to another enjoyable belay anchor overlooking The Finger. I took pitch 6, another free pitch, across the east side of The Duck, and then up a chimney to the top of the Bivy Ledge. Starting across The Duck was sobering as the exposure started to set in.
Paul on pitch 5.
Aiding on pitch 5.
Jugging pitch 5.
Jugging pitch 5. Finger in the background.
The major advantage of a three person party is minimizing the number of pitches led. Now, my leading was now done. Paul took over for pitch 7 which started with a very exposed step/jump across the void of the west face. Once across the gap, Paul worked his way up another C2 seam to the arete proper. The position at this point was exposed and unique as we could start to look down on all of the other Fisher Towers.
Paul on the Duck Walk.
The Duck.
JUMP! Pitch 7.
Starting C2 seam on pitch 7.
Jugging pitch 7.
For the final pitch, David took the lead. A reachy bolt ladder guided him to a final bit of unprotected 5.8 free climbing. Stated as "horrifying" by some, David did an excellent job of pulling his head together to reach the next belay. He said it was probably the scariest 5.8 climbing he had ever done. Unfortunately, just prior to starting the traversing free climbing, the only protection was an original Kor bolt. That bolt certainly wouldn't have held a whipper.
David about to start up pitch 8.
David climbing pitch 8.
Jugging pitch 8.
After the 8th pitch, a class 4 scramble led us to the summit. A sense of accomplishment set in as we stood on the tallest free standing sandstone tower in the western hemisphere. Towering above everything else, the views were astonishing. To the east, were the Mystery Towers where Gothic Nightmare calls to me like a siren. Stretching on the horizon to the south was Castleton, The Rectory, The Priest and Sister Superior.
Final steps to the summit.
Happy to be on top.
Such a good view.
Loitering on the summit for 30 minutes, we finally decided to start our descent. Five rappels led us back to the ground. Despite the fear and challenges presented in the other Fishers, it's hard to believe that The Titan boarded on type 1 fun. Now, I just need some practice nailing because the Mystery Towers await.
Summit Register.
Exposed.
Rapping down.
Chimney rappels.
Satisfaction.
Hiking out.
Friend at camp. Good thing I was wearing flip flops.
Lovely gear.
The Beta Pitch 1: Start up a large hand crack and free climb or french free to an intermediate anchor. Once above the intermediate anchor, aid climb/mixed free to the first belay. Heavy on 2-3 cams. 5.8-10 C2, 140 feet. Pitch 2: Tricky aid climbing moves off of the belay lead to a better crack. C2, 80 feet. Pitch 3: Two fixed pins lead to an interesting section of aid. The crack improves until 20 feet below the chains. Tricky aid up a dirty cobble crack leads to a scary mantle (the route crux). A few more aid moves lead to the chains. C2/3, 70 feet. Pitch 4: Traverse 15 feet right (5.6) to a fixed bolt. Aid through a roof on fixed tri-cams which could be difficult if tri-cams are missing. A short off-width ends the pitch. 5.8 C1 (C2/3 if tri-cams are missing), 50 feet. Pitch 5: A short slab climb on the arete (two bolts) leads to a short aid section followed by a flared off-width. The OW can be freed at 5.9 or aided. A beached whale at the top leads to the anchor. 5.7-9, C1 (80 feet) Pitch 6: Traverse on the east side of The Duck (5.4) to the rappel chains. Continue traversing into a somewhat dirty 5.8 chimney leading the Bivy Ledge. 5.8, 90 feet. Pitch 7: Traverse right from the Bivy Ledge to an exposed jump/step across. Follow 2 bolts up from the traverse into a C2 seam with questionable rock. Once back on the arete, free climb/mixed aid up bolts to the well bolted belay. 5.8 C2, 80 feet. Pitch 8: Climb up the arete with mixed free/aid on spaced out bolts (Thank you Kor for being so tall). A stick clip will be handy. Once at the caprock, climb up a wide crack until it peters out. At the last bolt (Kor bolt), climb up and right on unprotected 5.8 climbing to the anchor. 5.8 C1, 100 feet. Pitch 9: Proceed up 4th class blocks to the summit. Class 4, 120 feet.
The Descent
Requires 2 60 ropes. Rap 1: 100 feet. Top of pitch 8 to the top of pitch 7. Check rope pull. Rap 2: 140 feet. Top of pitch 7 to the bolts on the south side of the duck. Bypass the top of pitch 6. Rap 3: 120 feet. Rappel north down dirty chimney/gully (south side of the Duck). Rappel skiers right of two cracks to minimize rope pull issues. Rap 4: 160 feet. Rap 5: 100 feet. Recommended Rack:
1 set offset nuts
2 sets offset cams (so money)
1 set tri-cams
3 each #0.4-#3 (C4s)
2 #4s (C4s)
1 set smaller TCUs
Did not use ballnuts or regular nuts. Only used tri-cams on a few placements. Offset cams were extremely helpful. The new blue/white X4 offset was extremely beneficial.
Route Topo.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Awesome route. I'll always be satisfied enough by just reading about such undertakings.
And, LOL at white/purple offset metolius, didn't even realize they made 'em that small. Small corn kernel sized lobes on one side, smaller corn kernel sized lobes on the other.
Honestly that pin holding the summit register looks like the only decent anchor the whole way up those thing. You're certainly a hardman in my mind heading up those chossy crumbling pinnacles. Good work.
What an amazing place! I've never even heard of it before. And what an amazing climb! I can't believe those things are even climb-able.
Your photos are equally amazing! #1 = WOW!! Again! Yes, I agree with Dave B, I'll simply enjoy your trip from the desk of my computer! Thanks so much for sharing it!
I've been waiting to see this one! Super stoked for you guys. Funny how reading this brought back some pretty ”good” memories. Especially that mantel on P3! Ha. How many people actually climb this thing?
Pretty awesome, seeing what people do in the Fishers never ceases to amaze me! I have said before I have no desire to aid in the Fishers, and I don't think this report will change my mind, you're all crazy (in a good way)
I've been following your trip reports on the other Fisher Towers so it's great to see the report on your finale. What a place huh, the Titan looks so impressive from the base I can't imagine what it's like to be on top of it. BTW those little translucent scorpions are the worst ones, I'm glad no one stung.
Nice work guys! Shoot. What an awesome climb. You just have the Oracle left? David just has Echo and Kingfisher left? Look forward to getting back there with you guys. Again, psyched you guys finally got it! Woohoo! 8)
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