Peak(s):	The Dragons Tail - 5800 The Great Googley Moogley - 4900 Devils Golf Ball - 5340 Tonka Tower - 5300
Date Posted:	11/19/2014
Date Climbed:	11/11/2014
Author:	Furthermore

A Tale of Four Towers
The Dark Art of Aid Solo - The Dragon's Tail November 11, 2014 Southeast Face 5.6 C1, 2 pitches I can't get enough of the Fishers; it's a special place. I fought icy roads and dumbass drivers as I made my way westbound to Utah. Breaking up the drive, which took almost 7 hours from Denver, I arrived early morning and started packing my pack. One downside to soloing is I have to carry all of the gear. It's a heavy pack with a rack and double ropes but at least the approach is a familiar one. I slowly make my way to the base of the route, look for a base anchor and start racking up. Despite the recent bolting controversy, the route is fairly good. The route takes a new bolt ladder in a chimney 40 feet right of The Kingfisher which was likely put up by slackliners. I don't mind since I now have a tower that I can "easily" solo. I anchor off of the first two bolts of the Colorado Northeast Ridge on the Kingfisher and start upward. Looking up pitch 1. Dragon's Tail Dragon's Tail and the Kingfisher The first pitch was quick. Some minor C1 gear placements were required through a short crack section near the top of the pitch. I rappel down, cleaned, and jugged back up. Looking across a narrow sidewalk ridge, I see the second pitch which unfortunately has lots of stub bolts. My beta source failed to mention I needed rivet hangers. I've got a set of nuts, I should be fine. Looking down from � way up pitch 1. Pitch 2 and summit tower. I walk across the sidewalk and start clipping bolts where I quickly realize I'm going to have to start back cleaning my nuts for hangers. I counted at least 10 bolt stubs and I only have a select few nuts. Fortunately, every few stubs I get a real bolt hanger. I leave a larger nut attached to a bolt, back clean the next bolt stub and start reaching for the next bolt. I'm a few inches short as I try sliding a nut on the next bolt stub. Lots of these instead of rivet hangers. Cling! I look down and my previous nut hanger, two bolts down, has fallen off. Great now I'm now boltless for two bolts with possible ledge deck potential. I quickly learn that larger nuts are not going to stay on the stubs thus reducing my usable hangers even more. Back to the task at hand, I try top stepping and I'm still short on hangering a nut on the next bolt. Too bad nuts are so long. Hum.... There is a nice dirty ledge that I can hook. I place a hook and start stepping up and now for the scary part. A yellow jacket becomes infatuated by me. Not cool. I despise and fear bees, hornets and yellow jackets. I loose my shit and start cursing. A good or bad thing about soloing is there is no one there to listen to me bitch, curse or scream. Bored, the yellow jacket flies away. I haven't been stung so things are better. I step up on the hook, sling the next bolt stub and step up. (I'll spare every one the post hook, yellow jacket selfie) Ah, the next bolt has a hanger and things are good. The aid climbing ends at a mantle but leaves me 40 feet short of the summit. Mandatory free climbing on mud takes me to another 3 aid bolts. The glorious solo hook. Looking down from 1/3 of the way up pitch 2. Looking down the mud chimney near the top. At the top of the short bolt latter, I make another interesting mantle which leads me to the anchors. I free climb up some face moves above the bolts to the summit. I have arrived on the summit with astonishing views. The Kingfisher from the summit. Fishers Parking lot from the summit. Titan, Echo and Cottontail from the summit. Small summit. I rappel the route, cleaning my limited nut hangers as I go. Due to the sinuous nature of the second pitch, I have to re-jug the second pitch to fix my lines for a clean rappel and rope pull. One more rappel leads me to the ground. Looking down from the top of pitch 2. Returning to the Fishers parking lot, my beer tastes phenomenal where a unique feel of accomplishment flows through me. I'm not sure I will continue to partake in the dark art of aid soloing on towers but only time will tell..... Dragon's Tail. Beta: Despite a recent bolting controversy, this route makes for a great intro to aid climbing and starting aid solo. Start in a chimney 40 feet right of the Colorado Northeast Ridge on The Kingfisher. P1 - Follow a bolt ladder in the chimney to the saddle between The Kingfisher and The Dragon's Tail. Some C1 placements or free climbing will be required about 3/4 of the way up to the saddle. 100 feet, 5.6 C1. Word on the street is this pitch frees around 5.10+. P2 - Walk northeast on the narrow ridge to the base of the southeast face and start clipping bolts (many stubs). Near the top, mandatory free mud climbing will be required before clipping 3 bolts to the top. 120 feet, 5.6 C0. Rappel the route. Make sure your rope is 200 feet long as a single 60M rope barely reaches the saddle from the top. A 70M rope is recommended. Rap 1 (2 bolts) - 100 feet Rap 2 (2 bolts) - 95 feet Protection: Single rack BD 0.4-3. 12-15 rivet hangers OR 2 sets of smaller nuts. Draws. A small cliff hanger hook may be helpful on pitch 2 for shorter folks using long nuts instead of rivet hangers. November 12, 2014 My climbing partner for the rest of the week arrived late Tuesday night. We had originally planned on aid climbing the Hindu and then climbing Sister Superior but cooler temps and high winds made us change our plans. The Great Googley Moogley 5.10+, 1 Pitch Cold wind drove us from the Hindu but that's nothing a little wide OW with gloves will not fix. I just can't escape the Fishers. Googley Moogley. OW climbing on Googley Moogley. For a Fisher Route, the route was much higher quality than we both expected. Maybe there is something to this Cutler Sandstone. OW section of Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT) Top of Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT) The Great Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT) The Great Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT) Devil's Golf Ball Regular Route 5.10 C0, 1 pitch. The wind picks up more and displaces us from the Fishers. We settle on some shorties in Arches and first on tap is Bubo Tower. The approach is quick, but the north facing route with a gale made the route less than appealing. We now go to plan D; Devil's Golf Ball. With an even shorter approach, we are pleased the route is out of the wind and in the sun. I quickly rack and clip a newly installed pin protecting the thin start. A good crack quickly led me to the aided bolt ladder which took me to the top. Start of Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT) Crack climbing on Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT) Nearing the top of the free climbing on Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT) Starting the aid section on Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT) Once I pull the mantle onto the summit, I'm blasted with wind. Burrrr. Sarah makes quick time and we rappel down. With some daylight left, there is only one thing we can do. Climb another tower. Top of Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT) The top of Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT) The Garden of Eden. (Photo by SarahT) Summit of Devil's Golf Ball. Rappelling off Devil's Golf Ball. Tonka Tower C0, 2 pitches Hiking towards Tonka. (Photo by SarahT) There is barely enough time for the car to heat up before we are at our next trailhead. The approach was rough as it is the longest of the day and within 20 minutes we are at the base of the route. Out of the wind and in the sunshine, we give it a go and Sarah took the lead. Near the top of pitch one is a chimney where the wind was howling. Sarah belays below the chimney and brings me up. Start of Tonka. I take the lead as the sound of a freight train roars above me. The chimney is poorly protected but I am able to find a pin which takes me to the arete of the tower. A two bolt ladder guides me towards the summit. Above the bolts were some 5.8 slab moves to reach the top. The moves are not hard but I had to carefully execute between lulls in the wind. I don't want to be blown off into the abyss; it was scary. Finishing up Tonka. Tonka. I quickly make an anchor and bring Sarah up. The wind is freezing and I have trouble staying warm. Even the winter 14er completer even complained it was colder than some of her winter ascents. I'm almost too cold to appreciate the amazing views of the setting sun over Elephant Butte. Sunset on Tonka. (Photo by SarahT) Sunset on Tonka. (Photo by SarahT) Due to the wind, our rope tosses to get down were less than ideal. The ropes end up blowing sidewise and kept knotting up. It took me 10 minutes to rappel 120 feet as I constantly dealt with knotting ropes. I feel better when we reach the ground, at least I can hide from the wind. The forecast for the Moab area was less than ideal so we decided to migrate south towards Valley of the Gods for some adventure climbing. That's where some of the best towers of the trip were climbed. Continued on part 2. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

A Tale of Four Towers

The Dark Art of Aid Solo - The Dragon's Tail

November 11, 2014
Southeast Face
5.6 C1, 2 pitches

I can't get enough of the Fishers; it's a special place. I fought icy roads and dumbass drivers as I made my way westbound to Utah. Breaking up the drive, which took almost 7 hours from Denver, I arrived early morning and started packing my pack.

One downside to soloing is I have to carry all of the gear. It's a heavy pack with a rack and double ropes but at least the approach is a familiar one. I slowly make my way to the base of the route, look for a base anchor and start racking up.

Despite the recent bolting controversy, the route is fairly good. The route takes a new bolt ladder in a chimney 40 feet right of The Kingfisher which was likely put up by slackliners. I don't mind since I now have a tower that I can "easily" solo. I anchor off of the first two bolts of the Colorado Northeast Ridge on the Kingfisher and start upward.

Looking up pitch 1.

Dragon's Tail

Dragon's Tail and the Kingfisher

The first pitch was quick. Some minor C1 gear placements were required through a short crack section near the top of the pitch. I rappel down, cleaned, and jugged back up. Looking across a narrow sidewalk ridge, I see the second pitch which unfortunately has lots of stub bolts. My beta source failed to mention I needed rivet hangers. I've got a set of nuts, I should be fine.

Looking down from � way up pitch 1.

Pitch 2 and summit tower.

I walk across the sidewalk and start clipping bolts where I quickly realize I'm going to have to start back cleaning my nuts for hangers. I counted at least 10 bolt stubs and I only have a select few nuts. Fortunately, every few stubs I get a real bolt hanger. I leave a larger nut attached to a bolt, back clean the next bolt stub and start reaching for the next bolt. I'm a few inches short as I try sliding a nut on the next bolt stub.

Lots of these instead of rivet hangers.

Cling! I look down and my previous nut hanger, two bolts down, has fallen off. Great now I'm now boltless for two bolts with possible ledge deck potential. I quickly learn that larger nuts are not going to stay on the stubs thus reducing my usable hangers even more.

Back to the task at hand, I try top stepping and I'm still short on hangering a nut on the next bolt. Too bad nuts are so long. Hum.... There is a nice dirty ledge that I can hook. I place a hook and start stepping up and now for the scary part.

A yellow jacket becomes infatuated by me. Not cool. I despise and fear bees, hornets and yellow jackets. I loose my shit and start cursing. A good or bad thing about soloing is there is no one there to listen to me bitch, curse or scream.

Bored, the yellow jacket flies away. I haven't been stung so things are better. I step up on the hook, sling the next bolt stub and step up. (I'll spare every one the post hook, yellow jacket selfie) Ah, the next bolt has a hanger and things are good. The aid climbing ends at a mantle but leaves me 40 feet short of the summit. Mandatory free climbing on mud takes me to another 3 aid bolts.

The glorious solo hook.

Looking down from 1/3 of the way up pitch 2.

Looking down the mud chimney near the top.

At the top of the short bolt latter, I make another interesting mantle which leads me to the anchors. I free climb up some face moves above the bolts to the summit. I have arrived on the summit with astonishing views.

The Kingfisher from the summit.

Fishers Parking lot from the summit.

Titan, Echo and Cottontail from the summit.

Small summit.

I rappel the route, cleaning my limited nut hangers as I go. Due to the sinuous nature of the second pitch, I have to re-jug the second pitch to fix my lines for a clean rappel and rope pull. One more rappel leads me to the ground.

Looking down from the top of pitch 2.

Returning to the Fishers parking lot, my beer tastes phenomenal where a unique feel of accomplishment flows through me. I'm not sure I will continue to partake in the dark art of aid soloing on towers but only time will tell.....

Dragon's Tail.

Beta:

Despite a recent bolting controversy, this route makes for a great intro to aid climbing and starting aid solo.
Start in a chimney 40 feet right of the Colorado Northeast Ridge on The Kingfisher.
P1 - Follow a bolt ladder in the chimney to the saddle between The Kingfisher and The Dragon's Tail. Some C1 placements or free climbing will be required about 3/4 of the way up to the saddle. 100 feet, 5.6 C1. Word on the street is this pitch frees around 5.10+.
P2 - Walk northeast on the narrow ridge to the base of the southeast face and start clipping bolts (many stubs). Near the top, mandatory free mud climbing will be required before clipping 3 bolts to the top. 120 feet, 5.6 C0.

Rappel the route. Make sure your rope is 200 feet long as a single 60M rope barely reaches the saddle from the top. A 70M rope is recommended.
Rap 1 (2 bolts) - 100 feet
Rap 2 (2 bolts) - 95 feet

Protection:
Single rack BD 0.4-3. 12-15 rivet hangers OR 2 sets of smaller nuts. Draws. A small cliff hanger hook may be helpful on pitch 2 for shorter folks using long nuts instead of rivet hangers.

November 12, 2014

My climbing partner for the rest of the week arrived late Tuesday night. We had originally planned on aid climbing the Hindu and then climbing Sister Superior but cooler temps and high winds made us change our plans.

The Great Googley Moogley
5.10+, 1 Pitch

Cold wind drove us from the Hindu but that's nothing a little wide OW with gloves will not fix. I just can't escape the Fishers.

Googley Moogley.

OW climbing on Googley Moogley.

For a Fisher Route, the route was much higher quality than we both expected. Maybe there is something to this Cutler Sandstone.

OW section of Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT)

Top of Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT)

The Great Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT)

The Great Googley Moogley. (Photo by SarahT)

Devil's Golf Ball
Regular Route 5.10 C0, 1 pitch.

The wind picks up more and displaces us from the Fishers. We settle on some shorties in Arches and first on tap is Bubo Tower. The approach is quick, but the north facing route with a gale made the route less than appealing.

We now go to plan D; Devil's Golf Ball. With an even shorter approach, we are pleased the route is out of the wind and in the sun. I quickly rack and clip a newly installed pin protecting the thin start. A good crack quickly led me to the aided bolt ladder which took me to the top.

Start of Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT)

Crack climbing on Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT)

Nearing the top of the free climbing on Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT)

Starting the aid section on Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT)

Once I pull the mantle onto the summit, I'm blasted with wind. Burrrr. Sarah makes quick time and we rappel down. With some daylight left, there is only one thing we can do. Climb another tower.

Top of Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT)

The top of Devil's Golf Ball. (Photo by SarahT)

The Garden of Eden. (Photo by SarahT)

Summit of Devil's Golf Ball.

Rappelling off Devil's Golf Ball.

Tonka Tower
C0, 2 pitches

Hiking towards Tonka. (Photo by SarahT)

There is barely enough time for the car to heat up before we are at our next trailhead. The approach was rough as it is the longest of the day and within 20 minutes we are at the base of the route. Out of the wind and in the sunshine, we give it a go and Sarah took the lead. Near the top of pitch one is a chimney where the wind was howling. Sarah belays below the chimney and brings me up.

Start of Tonka.

I take the lead as the sound of a freight train roars above me. The chimney is poorly protected but I am able to find a pin which takes me to the arete of the tower.

A two bolt ladder guides me towards the summit. Above the bolts were some 5.8 slab moves to reach the top. The moves are not hard but I had to carefully execute between lulls in the wind. I don't want to be blown off into the abyss; it was scary.

Finishing up Tonka.

Tonka.

I quickly make an anchor and bring Sarah up. The wind is freezing and I have trouble staying warm. Even the winter 14er completer even complained it was colder than some of her winter ascents. I'm almost too cold to appreciate the amazing views of the setting sun over Elephant Butte.

Sunset on Tonka. (Photo by SarahT)

Sunset on Tonka. (Photo by SarahT)

Due to the wind, our rope tosses to get down were less than ideal. The ropes end up blowing sidewise and kept knotting up. It took me 10 minutes to rappel 120 feet as I constantly dealt with knotting ropes. I feel better when we reach the ground, at least I can hide from the wind.

The forecast for the Moab area was less than ideal so we decided to migrate south towards Valley of the Gods for some adventure climbing. That's where some of the best towers of the trip were climbed. Continued on part 2.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

mtgirl	Moab never gets old..... 11/19/2014 5:32pm Great pictures and great adventure. I had to chuckle though. You’ve got the skill and big cojones to climb stuff in the Fishers solo......and you’re afraid of a little bee. Oh, I’m afraid of bees too (allergic). Headed to Moab next weekend (mountain biking, not climbing), so thanks for the red rock stoke !
Aardvark	Great Pics! 11/19/2014 6:02pm Nice report, thanks for posting
Monster5	Nice 11/19/2014 6:44pm This one’s highly rated on Trip Advisor. Donna might like it. I would’ve totally done Bubo Tower right now. Seems appropriate.
AlexeyD	Is the wind a thing with Tonka Tower? 11/19/2014 9:01pm I also did it (spring 2013) and it was similarly roaring like a freight train! Could barely rap because the wind was pulling the ropes horizontally! Also took a fall on a cam behind a small flake above the 2nd bolt (might’ve been trying to add another point of aid there, not sure); luckily the bolt held! Anyway, thanks for sharing – brings back good memories
piper14er	Without even looking 11/20/2014 1:26am I knew this was a Furthermore report exemplary
Brian C	Nice hook 11/20/2014 3:36pm Felt good enough to stand on it and take a photo?? Haha. Great report! I can only imagine climbing that OW on Googly Moogly. Next time I’m down there I’ll have to check out Dragon’s Tail. Not surprised Noah forgot to mention something.
SnowAlien	Very cool 4/2/2015 7:45pm Although cold, I can assure you it was warmer in Utah than in Denver last week! Way to escape the cold and get some very cool summits.

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The Dark Art of Aid Solo - The Dragon's Tail

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