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Peak(s):  James Peak  -  13,272 feet
Date Posted:  01/12/2015
Modified:  01/13/2015
Date Climbed:   01/10/2015
Author:  jmanner
 Windy day on James   

James Peak Southeast Slopes
Total Mileage: 10.2 Miles
Vertical gain: 2,980 feet
Vertical skied: ~2,700 feet
Ascent time: 4 hours 40 minutes
Summit time: 30 minutes
Descent time: 2 hours 15 minutes
Data from Garmin Fenix 2

For a couple years now as I've driven to go ski at Mary Jane or Berthoud Pass I have looked at James Peak and thought it's southeast slope looked like an easy climb and ski close to home. So, with the word "easy" on our lips and in our wives' ears, my friend Terrence, my wolf and I set out from Denver at 5:55 am, on Saturday, to skin and ski James Peak from Saint Mary's Glacier.

After about an hour of driving and a missed turn for Alice, the three of us arrived at the pay lot and started getting ready for what should be an easy day. We were skinning up a track just to the west of the road, which took us past some old mining structures before dumping out on the hardpacked trail up the lake. We were able to leave the skis on our feet except for a short section around the lake, near the bridge. We hit the base of the glacier around one mile, set our heel raisers to the highest setting and started up.
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Terrence skinning up St. Mary's initial head wall.

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Saint Mary's Lake with Mounts Evan and Bierstadt visable.

The snow on the glacier had been wind sculpted into an extremely hard surface. Once we got up on the glacier the wind was very strong. I could make a guess but I am sure it would be incorrect so let's just say it was Mach 10 and leave it at that. Regardless, it was strong enough that several times Terrence and I were pushed backwards on our skis which would have us on our butts in no time. One of these instances caused Terrence to sliding down the slope uncontrolled for 20+ meters.
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Steepest section of the "glacier" where we both were pushed down by the wind multiple times.

Not for the last time did we wish we'd brought Axes and Crampons. Eugene did not have any issues...

Once we had climbed above the steep section for quarter mile we found ourselves at the end of the snow field and a mile or so of open wind scoured tundra. We pulled our skis off our feet and strapped them to our packs which caused an interesting interaction with slightly less intense but still at misery-level wind. Luckily, the wind was coming from the west which allowed us to simply bend 30 degrees at the hip and battle through it. However if we turned at all the skis acted like sails and sent us stumbling.
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Eugene's typical expression of: "We going to move or just sit here?" Note his fur pressed against his head.

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Only view of James all day.


After about an hour or so we were at the base of the first snow climb.

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Climbing up the first incline to James


The snow was still bulletproof and we didn't have any traction so we took turns kicked steps up the slope. Luckily the mountain shielded us from most of the wind, so we were not having to battle Zephyrus's fury and the incline at the same time. I don't remember a whole lot from this point except that my single pop tart and two cups of coffee did not prepare me for lugging my full winter kit plus skis.

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Eugene waiting.


The snow is fairly continuous here except for two short sections where we climbed up through small talus fields. During these traverses the topic of dropping the skis and continuing on without them was brought up, however it was concluded that perhaps a final look at the summit's snowfield might allow a ski descent from the summit.

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View to the Southeast from around 12.5K


After an hour of this continuous drudgery we were about 400 vertical from the summit and could catch short glimpses of the final summit pitch through the clouds. At (~12,900 feet) this "easy" climb had thoroughly broken my spirit. I had transformed from a 31 year old yuppie into a full blow bonk-a-saurus. We looked on from our vantage and realized that our decision to lug our skis this high was not in vain for we could see a continuous line from the summit to well below our current location. Although, this did not relieve my fatigue it did remove all doubt that this "incredibly easy mountain" would have the coverage to make the skis worth it. Fortunately for my energy levels it was a mere 25 minute climb up unconsolidated windblown snow to the summit.

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Final summit pitch. Something special about a whiteout at 13,000 feet.


Once on the summit we were treated with occasional views of Mary Jane, and that other part of the resort, the Gores and occasionally the northern Ten Mile Range. We spent about 30 minutes drinking hot tea and water from Terrence's thermoses and sucking down cold water from my bladder all while trying to cram down some calories for the ski back.

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Mary Jane and the Parsenn Bowl. How many Mary Jane runs can you name?

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Looking across to First and Second Creeks.

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Looking south towards Parry Peak.

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Skiing down from the summit we took turns going down the initial snow section since it was the only avalanche questionable terrain of the day. The snow wasn't terrible- wind scoured hardpack- I've definitely skied worse inbounds at any of the Front Range Ski areas. We met up about 500 feet below and discussed the optimal ski line down to the tundra plain below(skiers right followed by skiers left).
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See the dog?

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Hiking between snowfields

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Mount Evans and Bierstadt

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The ski down required that we pop the skis off for two quick traverses. Around this time the forecast actual was accurate: 10 mph with gusts up to 20 mph... It took us about an hour to ski from the summit to where we had to hike again. This included waiting for Eugene to catch up. Poor guy was started to show the effect of no liquid intact in seven hours.

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Skiing the second snowfield

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Terrence skiing the final snowfield.


The hike back to glacier snowfield only required 25 minutes even with a 10 minute stop to chat with the first people we'd seen.

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Half way between the last of the snow and Saint Marys. Nice view of the Grays Group...


I wish I could say that I was happy for the people we saw who did not have to deal with the wind, however mostly I felt hate in my heart. I wanted them to experience the unrelenting misery of Zephyrus's wrath.

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looking down from the top of the continuous ski to the car.


From the top of the snowfield we would scrape our way to the furthest point visible to Eugene and wait and call his name. At this point he was completely wiped out, oh how the tables had turned on him. We followed this pattern all the way down the sastrugi snowfield. We were able to ski most of the way around the lake and from here it was only about a 5 minute walk into the trees and from there we were able to ski some not terrible snow back to the car. Of course we had to follow the pattern of ski, stop, call Eugene then repeat for the last mile out... Poor bugger was done.

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typical snow quality at the top of the "glacier".

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Most miserable part of the snow, just prior to more enjoyable wind-scoured stuff

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Terrence skiing the last of the steep stuff


Our super easy day took 7 hours and 20 minutes and destroyed a runner, an Ironman and a wolf. Character building day to say the least. Best part is I carried a Great Divide glass bottle of Lasso and never drank it.

My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 26 27 28


Comments or Questions
Cookiehiker
User
Nice job!!
1/13/2015 1:46am
Much like the conditions I faced when I snowshoed this route a couple years ago! White out at one point. It is a great hike though...but that wind whipping down the glacier!! YOWZA! Oh, and your dog ROCKS!!


cftbq
User
Congrats
1/13/2015 3:07am
to Eugene for waiting for you slowpokes! Nice pics for challenging conditions, too.


Frontrangeskier
User
Neat.
1/13/2015 3:14am
Your Dog is Rad!


dillonsarnelli
User
Cool dog, Manner
1/13/2015 7:37am
Nice report. Looks like you earned it. I didn’t know you could spell without hashtags! #Eug


Steve Climber
User
It doesn’t have to be fun to be fun
1/13/2015 3:31pm
I hope Eugene got a nice rub down and a steak when you got home.

Nice write up, and way to keep on keeping on. Looked like full day of Type II, for sure.


goingup
User
Picture number 7
1/13/2015 7:17pm
I want him!


jmanner
User
Thanks for reading!
1/14/2015 3:16pm
Cookiehiker– The wind seems to be a reoccurring theme with James.

cftbq– Mean–Gene has been spent most his life waiting for me to catch up.

Taillon and Goingup– Thanks for the dog compliments. He’s definitly way cooler than me.

Dillion– #ihavebeentryingtowritetomyaudienceandnotininterwebspeak

Steve Climber–Definitly Type 2 Fun. I also got in a speedskater in on the summit! Kelly would be proud.


SurfNTurf
User
Dear John
1/14/2015 6:37pm
#neverstopsaturating


AndyJB444
User
Good effort!
1/14/2015 8:42pm
James needs more snow ASAP!



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