Peak(s):	El Diente Peak - 14,175 feet Mt. Wilson - 14,256 feet
Date Posted:	02/24/2015
Modified:	03/11/2015
Date Climbed:	02/21/2015
Author:	dannyg23
Additional Members:	TheGreatCamillo

Gone Pop - Mt Wilson to El Diente Traverse in Winter
Mt. Wilson (14,246 ft) and El Diente (14,159 ft) February 21, 2015 +/- 14 miles RT, 5900' gain From Cross Mt TH Participants: Nate Hughes, Danny Gilbert Teardrops On My Guitar Summit of Sunshine It's late at night in early January and Nate and I are sitting in my truck staring at the road up Mt. Princeton. We had just finished Sunshine & Redcloud and had planned on nabbing one more peak before heading back home. But we were tired. A few hours later, on the drive home with our heads hung in shame we dedicated ourselves to training hard and eating right in preparation for something difficult. I cut added sugar from my diet. I begin running every day. I get up Bear and SoBo on Saturdays, and when I don't run Sanitas before work I hit the climbing gym. 2 weeks of this, and suddenly during a run my calf hardens and I have to limp back to my car. My runner friend says I have to use a foam roller, and I contemplate the ridiculousness of this. Should I buy short-shorts and one of those stupid hats too, or will they just come free with the purchase? Instead I buy girl scout cookies and attempt to eat an entire large pizza. I don't know where I read this but paraphrasing: "You have to suffer to get to the top of the mountain. The suffering can be on the mountain, or ahead of time in training." I was choosing to suffer on the mountain. In the end I managed two difficult summits, and made it home safe but I added an unnecessary element of risk to an already dangerous trip. Still relatively new to this activity I learn big lessons with frequency. This edition's big lesson: Push yourself to your limit and sooner or later you will find it. It is a romantic notion, finding your limit. Plenty of cliche slogans urge you to go looking for it. I actually did find my limit one time, collapsed in a heap on the side of a trail near the end of a long run I was unable to move and even unable to stay awake despite not being at all tired. Find that in the mountains, in the middle of winter and miles from salvation and you would certainly die or at best place a huge burden on your partner or would be rescuers. For my part I will be looking into the purchase of one of those stupid hats and a pair of short-shorts. If you are reading this in preparation for attempting this route in winter, read Mad/Dad Mike's report for the same route first. His report is much better, and his accomplishments on the traverse much more significant. After finishing that you should read the legendary Steve Gladbach's report for El Diente. It isn't the same route (west ridge) but it is an amazing read. A Place In This World Nate and I had elected to go after Wilson and El Diente. The latter, in particular sees few winter summits (until lately). We watched week after week of good weather slip by as familial obligations kept us in town. Iman and Furthermore successfully managed the traverse as a day trip on a bluebird day and with perfect snow. Another group managed El Diente shortly after. Originally planning on modeling our trip after Mad Mike's with an overnight around tree line the conditions began to look favorable for a day trip. After studying the weather, the timing of the impending storm sealed the deal. I pick up Nate around 1:00 PM and we begin our long drive West to the furthest peak from Denver. Not long after passing Georgetown "Snowpocalypse" provides our first obstacle. The approach After several hours inching our way to the tunnel we learn that I-70 is closed and when we do finally reach the tunnel we are turned around back to Denver. 285 offers passage West, albeit slowly on icy roads and with tail lights as far as the eye can see. When we finally roll into the TH it is 11:00 PM and I've been driving now for 11 hours. We assemble our packs and contemplate the potential benefits of a few hours of restless "sleep" vs. just heading out right away, a method we had employed successfully before. In the end we decided to give sleep a try and I crawl into my newly constructed truck bed which at this point is just a sheet of plywood in the back of my pickup truck. Stay Beautiful I awake to sounds of Nate rolling up his tent and crawl out and around to the cab to get some heat blowing on us before departure. After sufficiently warming ourselves, we head out around 4:00 AM. Miles tick by as we ascend along a 4wd road and then abruptly cut left into the woods along a well established trench formed by many parties over the past few weeks. I see ski tracks, snowboard tracks and snowshoe tracks. This area has been well traveled and I contemplate the difficulties of being here if it weren't. Eventually we arrive into the upper end of the Slate Creek basin as the sun peeks out. First light We stop to sip some water and I encounter a problem. The zipper on my insulated water bottle parka is stuck. I have to rip it open to get the water out and now I am unable to close it again. I place a hand warmer on the bottom of the water bottle parka and hope for the best. Heading into the upper basin We continue up into the basin on snowshoes to perhaps 11,500 ft and then cash them in the rocks. Probably a staged photograph After strapping on crampons we start the climb up the couloir. This was an excellent, moderate snow climb that leads almost directly to the summit of Wilson. Views of Gladstone, Lizard Head and other mountains get better as you climb. Although later I was happy with this decision, at this point in the climb I really wished I had brought my split board. With good snow conditions, I highly recommend this climb. Lizard Head Nate ascending the couloir Nearing the top We reach the summit of Mt. Wilson at around 9:45 AM and I send a SPOT message to my wife. Despite the sub par training regimen I feel pretty strong at this point. Summit Mt. Wilson The storm is beginning to roll in, about 45 minutes later than expected, and we start making our way to El Diente. Beginning of the traverse Picture To Burn Into the storm Nate on the traverse We carried, but did not use a 30m rope each. During the climb I thought this was stupid but after consideration, I recommend that a rope be carried for the traverse if for no other reason then it can potentially get you out of some trouble in the form of a rappel. In addition, the comfort of a rope might be nice on a few places during the traverse: directly off of the Mt. Wilson summit and on the "class 4" down climb that you must perform while heading to El Diente. With snow, crampons, heavy packs, large mittens etc. I know I wasn't climbing with a lot of grace and class 3 or 4 climbing was not so trivial. Perhaps halfway along the traverse I punched through crusted snow and smashed my knee against a rock. Thus hobbled, I asked Nate to go in front - a position he would remain in for most of the remaining trip. Neither of us had done this route previously and we were frequently surprised by how far beneath the ridge proper you needed to go to make your way around some of the obstacles. At one point we stood up, very high up on the "organ pipes" unable to continue. I wanted to rappel into the unknown to the South because going backwards seemed too disheartening. Nate did not want to do this. We went back. We repeated this exercise 2 more times eating precious daylight hours. After much clumsy climbing, descending, pulling out our axes, and putting them back El Diente seemed no closer. Visibility was low so in truth we had no way of knowing how far away it was but whenever the soup cleared enough for us to see a few hundred feet in front of us we could see only more of the same endless ridge features. At about 1:15 PM we sat and debated turning back. We did not want to deal with the ridge's obstacles at night. I was now exhausted and only able to keep up with Nate because the terrain forced slow feet - and because he was tired too. Neither of us had eaten since ascending Wilson and my hand warmer experiment had failed to keep my water unfrozen in the broken parka. We resolved to continue for 1/2 an hour more as fast as we could. If El Diente wasn't within spitting distance we would turn back. We pushed hard and didn't look at the watch again until we stood on El Diente at 2:00 PM. Last move to El D Summit of El Diente Cold As You Heading back was considerably faster because route finding was not an issue. The temperature, which had been very low all day was now starting to plummet. Neither of us carries a thermometer but it was without a doubt the coldest we had been in. As I write this now, 3 days later I still don't have feeling in my toes. I thought about the recent images surfacing of bluebird days and pleasant views and wondered if maybe I wasn't doing this right. Then I thought about a Valentines day spent with my wife, and weekends spent playing with my kids - my heart warmed and I knew I was doing it right. Heading back to Mt. Wilson Along the ridge It is not necessary to summit Mt. Wilson again. We descended back into the couloir via an East/West arm that leads to the western face of Mt. Wilson at a point along the traverse. The storm subsided and it stopped snowing. We were awarded amazing views of Wilson Pk. that were too fleeting to quickly capture in photos with gloved hands. Clearing sky View toward Wilson Pk. Downclimb from Mt. Wilson We arrived back at our snowshoes at around sunset (5:30ish). In total, we had eaten 2 bars and a pack of shot blocks each and had very little water since sunrise. While taking my crampons off I realized I had just worn them for longer than I had previously worn them combining all climbs to date. Several hours later and I collapse for the third time along the trail in total exhaustion. I tell Nate to take the car keys and go ahead without me but he waits patiently for me to get up instead. I do, and after 17 hours we finally arrive back at my truck where I vow never to do this again without properly training beforehand. We drive as far as possible. Nate snaps in and out of sleep and I struggle to keep the truck between the lines. As far as possible, is not very far. I pull over and we sleep on the side of a dirt road near Montrose. We wake up and head into Montrose for breakfast at Denny's where we devour everything the waitress puts in front of us. After the trip Nate texts me that he lost 8 lbs. We head into the Walmart for a CD so we don't have to listen to static over the radio. I purchase a Taylor Swift CD because it would be the height of hilarity. We drive home staring at the icy road through bloodshot eyes, haggard and filthy as Taylor Swift plays on loop. We've achieved the height of hilarity, and nabbed two difficult winter summits - not bad for a couple of noobs. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Gone Pop - Mt Wilson to El Diente Traverse in Winter

Mt. Wilson (14,246 ft) and El Diente (14,159 ft)
February 21, 2015
+/- 14 miles RT, 5900' gain
From Cross Mt TH
Participants: Nate Hughes, Danny Gilbert

Teardrops On My Guitar

It's late at night in early January and Nate and I are sitting in my truck staring at the road up Mt. Princeton. We had just finished Sunshine & Redcloud and had planned on nabbing one more peak before heading back home. But we were tired. A few hours later, on the drive home with our heads hung in shame we dedicated ourselves to training hard and eating right in preparation for something difficult.

I cut added sugar from my diet. I begin running every day. I get up Bear and SoBo on Saturdays, and when I don't run Sanitas before work I hit the climbing gym. 2 weeks of this, and suddenly during a run my calf hardens and I have to limp back to my car. My runner friend says I have to use a foam roller, and I contemplate the ridiculousness of this. Should I buy short-shorts and one of those stupid hats too, or will they just come free with the purchase? Instead I buy girl scout cookies and attempt to eat an entire large pizza.

I don't know where I read this but paraphrasing: "You have to suffer to get to the top of the mountain. The suffering can be on the mountain, or ahead of time in training." I was choosing to suffer on the mountain. In the end I managed two difficult summits, and made it home safe but I added an unnecessary element of risk to an already dangerous trip. Still relatively new to this activity I learn big lessons with frequency. This edition's big lesson: Push yourself to your limit and sooner or later you will find it. It is a romantic notion, finding your limit. Plenty of cliche slogans urge you to go looking for it. I actually did find my limit one time, collapsed in a heap on the side of a trail near the end of a long run I was unable to move and even unable to stay awake despite not being at all tired. Find that in the mountains, in the middle of winter and miles from salvation and you would certainly die or at best place a huge burden on your partner or would be rescuers. For my part I will be looking into the purchase of one of those stupid hats and a pair of short-shorts.

If you are reading this in preparation for attempting this route in winter, read Mad/Dad Mike's report for the same route first. His report is much better, and his accomplishments on the traverse much more significant. After finishing that you should read the legendary Steve Gladbach's report for El Diente. It isn't the same route (west ridge) but it is an amazing read.

A Place In This World

Nate and I had elected to go after Wilson and El Diente. The latter, in particular sees few winter summits (until lately). We watched week after week of good weather slip by as familial obligations kept us in town. Iman and Furthermore successfully managed the traverse as a day trip on a bluebird day and with perfect snow. Another group managed El Diente shortly after. Originally planning on modeling our trip after Mad Mike's with an overnight around tree line the conditions began to look favorable for a day trip. After studying the weather, the timing of the impending storm sealed the deal.

I pick up Nate around 1:00 PM and we begin our long drive West to the furthest peak from Denver. Not long after passing Georgetown "Snowpocalypse" provides our first obstacle.

After several hours inching our way to the tunnel we learn that I-70 is closed and when we do finally reach the tunnel we are turned around back to Denver. 285 offers passage West, albeit slowly on icy roads and with tail lights as far as the eye can see. When we finally roll into the TH it is 11:00 PM and I've been driving now for 11 hours. We assemble our packs and contemplate the potential benefits of a few hours of restless "sleep" vs. just heading out right away, a method we had employed successfully before. In the end we decided to give sleep a try and I crawl into my newly constructed truck bed which at this point is just a sheet of plywood in the back of my pickup truck.

Stay Beautiful

I awake to sounds of Nate rolling up his tent and crawl out and around to the cab to get some heat blowing on us before departure. After sufficiently warming ourselves, we head out around 4:00 AM. Miles tick by as we ascend along a 4wd road and then abruptly cut left into the woods along a well established trench formed by many parties over the past few weeks. I see ski tracks, snowboard tracks and snowshoe tracks. This area has been well traveled and I contemplate the difficulties of being here if it weren't. Eventually we arrive into the upper end of the Slate Creek basin as the sun peeks out.

We stop to sip some water and I encounter a problem. The zipper on my insulated water bottle parka is stuck. I have to rip it open to get the water out and now I am unable to close it again. I place a hand warmer on the bottom of the water bottle parka and hope for the best.

We continue up into the basin on snowshoes to perhaps 11,500 ft and then cash them in the rocks.

After strapping on crampons we start the climb up the couloir. This was an excellent, moderate snow climb that leads almost directly to the summit of Wilson. Views of Gladstone, Lizard Head and other mountains get better as you climb. Although later I was happy with this decision, at this point in the climb I really wished I had brought my split board. With good snow conditions, I highly recommend this climb.

We reach the summit of Mt. Wilson at around 9:45 AM and I send a SPOT message to my wife. Despite the sub par training regimen I feel pretty strong at this point.

The storm is beginning to roll in, about 45 minutes later than expected, and we start making our way to El Diente.

Picture To Burn

We carried, but did not use a 30m rope each. During the climb I thought this was stupid but after consideration, I recommend that a rope be carried for the traverse if for no other reason then it can potentially get you out of some trouble in the form of a rappel. In addition, the comfort of a rope might be nice on a few places during the traverse: directly off of the Mt. Wilson summit and on the "class 4" down climb that you must perform while heading to El Diente. With snow, crampons, heavy packs, large mittens etc. I know I wasn't climbing with a lot of grace and class 3 or 4 climbing was not so trivial. Perhaps halfway along the traverse I punched through crusted snow and smashed my knee against a rock. Thus hobbled, I asked Nate to go in front - a position he would remain in for most of the remaining trip.

Neither of us had done this route previously and we were frequently surprised by how far beneath the ridge proper you needed to go to make your way around some of the obstacles. At one point we stood up, very high up on the "organ pipes" unable to continue. I wanted to rappel into the unknown to the South because going backwards seemed too disheartening. Nate did not want to do this. We went back. We repeated this exercise 2 more times eating precious daylight hours.

After much clumsy climbing, descending, pulling out our axes, and putting them back El Diente seemed no closer. Visibility was low so in truth we had no way of knowing how far away it was but whenever the soup cleared enough for us to see a few hundred feet in front of us we could see only more of the same endless ridge features. At about 1:15 PM we sat and debated turning back. We did not want to deal with the ridge's obstacles at night. I was now exhausted and only able to keep up with Nate because the terrain forced slow feet - and because he was tired too. Neither of us had eaten since ascending Wilson and my hand warmer experiment had failed to keep my water unfrozen in the broken parka. We resolved to continue for 1/2 an hour more as fast as we could. If El Diente wasn't within spitting distance we would turn back. We pushed hard and didn't look at the watch again until we stood on El Diente at 2:00 PM.

Cold As You

Heading back was considerably faster because route finding was not an issue. The temperature, which had been very low all day was now starting to plummet. Neither of us carries a thermometer but it was without a doubt the coldest we had been in. As I write this now, 3 days later I still don't have feeling in my toes. I thought about the recent images surfacing of bluebird days and pleasant views and wondered if maybe I wasn't doing this right. Then I thought about a Valentines day spent with my wife, and weekends spent playing with my kids - my heart warmed and I knew I was doing it right.

It is not necessary to summit Mt. Wilson again. We descended back into the couloir via an East/West arm that leads to the western face of Mt. Wilson at a point along the traverse. The storm subsided and it stopped snowing. We were awarded amazing views of Wilson Pk. that were too fleeting to quickly capture in photos with gloved hands.

We arrived back at our snowshoes at around sunset (5:30ish). In total, we had eaten 2 bars and a pack of shot blocks each and had very little water since sunrise. While taking my crampons off I realized I had just worn them for longer than I had previously worn them combining all climbs to date.

Several hours later and I collapse for the third time along the trail in total exhaustion. I tell Nate to take the car keys and go ahead without me but he waits patiently for me to get up instead. I do, and after 17 hours we finally arrive back at my truck where I vow never to do this again without properly training beforehand.

We drive as far as possible. Nate snaps in and out of sleep and I struggle to keep the truck between the lines. As far as possible, is not very far. I pull over and we sleep on the side of a dirt road near Montrose. We wake up and head into Montrose for breakfast at Denny's where we devour everything the waitress puts in front of us. After the trip Nate texts me that he lost 8 lbs.

We head into the Walmart for a CD so we don't have to listen to static over the radio. I purchase a Taylor Swift CD because it would be the height of hilarity. We drive home staring at the icy road through bloodshot eyes, haggard and filthy as Taylor Swift plays on loop. We've achieved the height of hilarity, and nabbed two difficult winter summits - not bad for a couple of noobs.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Jay521	Way to rock it! 2/24/2015 7:58pm I like your writing style. Hope you get the feeling back in your toes...
Steve Climber	So good... 2/24/2015 9:04pm Way to stick with it, despite conditions what would have turned many around! Although with TGC as your partner, there was never REALLY any doubt, was there?
SurfNTurf	There’s nothing better at keeping you awake 2/24/2015 9:15pm Than T–Swift. Fun report and amazing accomplishment.
jam6880	Big man Nate 2/25/2015 4:12am You have become such a great mountain climber!!!
dsunwall	impressive 2/25/2015 6:33pm Good report and good work, that took a lot of determination. Making that traverse in fog would be a bit unnerving and seem never ending.
dannyg23	T–Swift 2/28/2015 3:48am I was really hoping some hardcore fan would comment on all of the section headings being T–swift songs but I guess either the mountaineering and T–Swift communities don’t form much of an intersect, or nobody is willing to cop to that kind of knowledge. Thanks for the kind words Y’all.
FireOnTheMountain	nice dude 3/1/2015 6:05am that has to be one of the best intros ever read in a TR. Keep up the hard work gman and congrats to both of you. what a cool read.
dillonsarnelli	bad ass 3/10/2015 5:34am can’t say I caught the T–swift references either, haha. I’m sure that’s a good thing. what a great read and a hell of a day man!
Broken Knee	Cool! 8/5/2015 8:20pm It was hot doing a day full of heavy lifting so I went looking for a winter TR. Excellent! Great photos.

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Teardrops On My Guitar

A Place In This World

Stay Beautiful

Picture To Burn

Cold As You

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