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Peak(s):  Mt. Massive  -  14,427 feet
Date Posted:  03/10/2015
Modified:  01/09/2016
Date Climbed:   03/08/2015
Author:  SnowAlien
 Massive Sastrugi Winter Ski   

March 8, 2015
Route: Northeast ridge via Highline trail from Fish Hatchery TH
Vertical: ~4,900 ft
Mileage: ~15 miles
Time: ~12 hours (8.5 hour ascent plus 30 min on the summit, 3 hour descent)
Max speed: 23 mph
Party: Roy, Erik, Natalie, Brandon, Jaaron and Slim (dog)



I got the idea that the peak could skiable in winter from two helpful trip reports - Benners and Dances. The peak looked really dry earlier in the winter so I waited. A few days after a big dump, near blue bird forecast and almost no wind - time to head back to the Sawatch. I sent out a few invites that generated a fair amount of interest, and with some people dropping out and new people joining, we ended up with a group of 5, of diverse skill and experience level - 3 skiers/2 boarders. The plan was to start no later than 6am, but with the spring time change and the crew taking a bit longer to assemble gear, Jaaron and I hit the trail by 6.40am, with Roy, Erik and Brandon playing a catch-up.

It is still early and the sign on the Highline trail doesn't make any sense.

The mystery was solved on the descent though, just had to wait for about 12 hours.


Even only a few days after a sizeable storm (Sawatch received close to 2 feet over the prior week), the Highline trail can be described as a superhighway, particularly in the fist two miles. It sees a fair amount of traffic. Cross country skers/snowshoers/backcountry skiers and possibly even snowmobilers all use it for their approaches. In fact, it has two sides - one for snowshoers/hikers and another for cross-country and backcountry ski traffic (and that's what the sign apparently means). After the Wilderness Boundary sign the trail gets narrower, but is still plenty firm.



In 2 hours we covered 3 miles to reach the intersection with Colorado Trail near 11k. Here the track effectively ended, since nobody has been past that junction after the recent storm. Time to put our trailbreaking hats on!




Slim started to sink and swim in snow, quickly burning energy. Seeing that the dog is having trouble, Jaaron made the decision to turn around soon thereafter. Brandon with the snowboard and on snowshoes fell behind. Roy, Erik and myself proceeded skinning in deep snow, alternating leads. It took us almost 2 hours to reach the end of the treeline and arrive at the beginning of the NE ridge near 12k. I got the 2nd wind as we finally approached the end of the treeline.


The uphill effort


Splitboarders tend to make a nicer and wider trench




Out of the woods...finally



We took a long break, changing layers, hydrating, eating, putting on sunscreen and waiting for Brandon to catch up. Amazingly, we had communication with Brandon throughout the day, and he reported thigh to waist deep postholing (on snowshoes!) in a few spots that slowed him down considerably. The ridge was windblown, there was no need for floatation, so we put our skis (in my and Roy's case) and splitboard (in Erik's case) on our packs and started on the ridge proper. The time was 10.40am.



Initially, we were making good time on tundra, but fairly soon we ran into the first cliffy "bump" on the ridge. Now, in all the winter Massive reports I've seen (at least on this site), the ridge has been described as Class 2+. I didn't give it any particular thought. We tried to attack the bump "head-on", but encountered fairly deep and unsupportive snow, forcing us to the right (North side) of the ridge, which was windblown and dry. There we ran into some scrambly sections (made only more "interesting" with restrictive ski and splitboard gear), which felt harder than the Class 2+ rating would imply. Rather stunned we emerged after the 1st bump, only to face more bumps of similar difficulty.






Erik tops out after the 1st "bump". The snowfield we bypassed on the other side is behind him



The progress was rather slow. We spent at least 3 hours on the ridge navigating the bumps. We stayed in regular communication with Brandon who was trailing us by an hour and also reported harder than expected ridge difficulties. We gave the ridge everything we could, but when the difficulties finally relented near 13.6k, we were presented with almost 800 ft of additional vertical. I think three of us had to dig deep at this point. The weak storm was slowly building, but the weather was still pleasant, almost with no wind that day. At least the views were nice.


Massive and the ridge to North Massive


Did we miss the "easy street"?


The last 2 bumps were tackled "up and over" as we had a chance to preview the route.


Roy




The final grunt

We finally summited around 3.10-3.20 pm within minutes of each other.


Erik on the summit with Roy topping out


La Plata


Looking west


Erik


Roy


Natalie


The skis

After considering many options, we finally agreed on the descent game plan (suggested by Erik) and clicked in. We got in touch with Brandon, communicating our route and the meeting point on the ridge. Initial descent involved skiing down the ridge to about 14k parallel to the route we ascended, and then traversing across the basin towards the summer route to the top of the lower headwall near 13.4k, which from the prior research and visually we identified as of lower angle than other options available to us. The descent went fairly smoothly, except for the snow surface. It was sastrugi galore - snow features made by winds - unbelievably beautiful, but challenging as a ski surface.


General outline of the descent route


Rough surface for skiing




Erik


Winds can be fierce in this basin


Traversing


Traversing

We were able to connect windblown patches of snow save for a few short sections of tundra. Once at the headwall, we picked the line on the skiers' right that everyone was comfortable with, skiing between the rocks, quickly reaching the lower basin. Amazingly, it took us 4 hours to ascend the ridge from 12k and only an hour to descend back to the same spot and our skin track, even with taking all the photos and skiing one at a time.




Approaching the headwall


Descending the headwall




Steeper slopes we avoided


Skiing out of the basin.


The eagerly anticipated treeline

The lower we got, the better and softer the snow became. Roy and I regrouped at the treeline and skied back to the car, staying in contact with snowboarders. With some amount of uphill between 11.4k and 11.2k that required a brief section of putting skins back on, skiers had a small advantage in transitions.




Check out the size of that posthole!


Back on the Highline trail


Neat signage


Back at the TH by 6.50pm

I reached the car just before 7pm, with Roy about 5-10 minutes ahead of me, for a total summit-to-car descent time of 3 hours. With the spring time change, it was still light out. All in, an excellent, but admittedly exhausting winter adventure on the books. Until next time!



P.S. I added a GPX track from my skin/hike/ski tour of North Massive on 01.03.16.

My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):




Comments or Questions
moneymike
User
Glad you got it done, Natalie
3/11/2015 12:40am
I laughed when I saw the title of your tr. My go pro edit of North Massive, from a couple weeks ago, was simply titled "Sastrugi." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I7BExmlqZE

It’s the kind of stuff that turns expert skiers into amateurs


MtnHub
User
Sastrugi!
3/11/2015 1:14am
Thought maybe that term meant some kind of Austrian noodle or pastry until I looked it up. But yeah, super shots at the summit and coming down. The shadows highlight the sculpture! Good job crew!


FireOnTheMountain
User
we know
3/11/2015 3:17am
splitboarding sucks, quit rubbing it in

nice work team. tally ho


Matt
User
Nice Report!
3/11/2015 2:39pm
No BS, good pics.
How was the Leadville Subway?


jbchalk
User
Well done, Natalie.
3/11/2015 11:43pm
That’s a slick way to roll with Massive in winter. I’m envious. Now, that winter is almost over, I got a whopping zero winter peaks in. C’est la vie. I like vicarious livin’ thru you.


mountaingoat-G
User
nice
3/12/2015 2:24pm
very nice trip report...
I have always wanted to do Massive that way.


jbchalk
User
Spring...
3/13/2015 9:23pm
...very much looking forward to the freeze– thaw cycle and smooth creamy corn, Natalie. Like you say, I certainly hope my mountain fix will be this spring. Silverton was amazing. If I get one POW weekend a winter, that has seemed to be it the last 3 years. Somehow, I just keep hitting it right down there. Hope all is great.


bigmtnskier
Ha!
3/23/2015 2:19pm
First thing, props for going out there knowing you would ski terrible snow. There’s a reason why peeps don’t ski the 14ers all that much. Its because on 85% of them the snow is terrible. back in the day (late 90s) i went through a period of wanting to ski all the 14ers as Dawson was a hero of mine (no longer as i think he’s an arrogant tool bag who is so full of himself). at first i thought it was the coolest thing, but in reality, the skiing on most of them sucks because of the sastrugi and just plain out boring and crappy skiing terrain. this is a perfect example of such. i prefer quality over quantity. would rather ski a rad 12er or 13er with pow or excellent corn snow than slog up a flat and arduous 14er only to ski teeth chattering bulletproof crap. i will say in the 5 times i’ve skied castle and north maroon, the snow has been amazing. boot top pow, hero like snow. will go ski those peaks any day. next time you should drive a snowmobile in to knock off a lot of the flats. makes the day a bit easier. the time i did massive i rode a snowmobile all the way up to the apron on the W–SW side. got it done in about 2 hours round trip. the skiing sucked but at least it wasn’t a long haul.


bigmtnskier
nkan02
3/23/2015 11:26pm
don’t take my post as negative. definitely not trying to down play your motivation at all. i actually think it’s great. impressed with your willingness to ski the peaks with the less than ideal snow. sastrugi makes me whimper at night. just the thought of it! lol. massive is a cool peak and i’ve found it skis best during a corn cycle as the teeth chattering is at a minimum. if only they were all covered in bottomless blower pow, eh?


SnowAlien
User
Comments
4/2/2015 7:45pm
Mike - what a lovely video Yup, same deal with us - sastrugi above the treeline and much softer conditions below. I eagerly anticipate the North Massive TR! Sweet looking skis you got. We were ogling that ridge both as a way up or down, but were too beat to make the loop. Maybe I can catch it in powder someday...

Doug - thanks for the comment! Sastrugi typically grow in winter oh, and check out "penitentes"! At least we didn’t ski that.

Fire - only if you try to board the Flatirons. lol. Wasn’t rubbing it in, on the contrary, complimenting superior trench work of splitboarders!

Matt - the place was surprising crowded. Oh, and I could chew back then...

Brandon - haha, and I am envious of your adventures abroad and at home. You’ll get your fix soon enough. Besides, spring ski conditions are much smoother. Trust me, you are not missing much, unless you enjoy skiing bumps. Sastrugi bumps By the way... How was Silverton that weekend?


SnowAlien
User
Re. Ha!
4/2/2015 7:45pm
Bigmtnskier – I’ve done enough 14ers in winter to realize the snow for skiing is not that good in winter above the treeline. There were a few learning objectives this winter, one of them to be able to ski in bad conditions on fairly light AT setup. Move more efficiently with ski boots on rocks. Log some long days with big(gish) mileage/vert on skis. Skiing pow on 14ers in winter just was not on the list
p.s. Massive did have an unusual distinction of being "in" from the summit, not too rocky, continuous ~5k ski out, and a fairly mellow angle ski descent line appropriate for winter conditions even with "considerable" avy danger rating.


SnowAlien
User
Re. re. Ha!
4/2/2015 7:45pm
Bigmtnskier – No offense taken. None whatsoever! I can see how it can be amusing to people spoilt by normal conditions. Just makes me appreciate good skiable conditions that much more... We actually didn’t quite expect to see that much of hard pack sastrugi on the upper mountain. Were hoping for something softer after about of foot of snow in the Sawatch earlier that week. But no cigar – winds blew it all away.

p.s. I did ski Massive’s SW slopes in June’13 in ripe corn conditions for about 1.5–2k vertical. Part of the route was melted out and I had to carry my skis up to/from 12k. There are pluses and minuses to every season.


ltlFish99
Excellent report
11/10/2020 2:01pm
That was a great report with wonderful photographs.
That sastrugi is certainly quite beautiful.



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