North Maroon Peak Trip Report 04/13/2015

Peak(s):	North Maroon Peak - 14,022 feet
Date Posted:	04/13/2015
Date Climbed:	04/11/2015
Author:	Grimpeur

Bikes, Boots, and Skis - NW Ridge
North Maroon has been on my short list since about September last after a great summer of alpine climbing and a trip up the Y couloir on south Maroon. Finally this past January a friend and I took a go at N Maroon, hoping for a winter ascent. It was a brutal and complete shutdown having only made 600ft in 5 hours, battling waist to chest deep snow on 60 degree slopes the entire way, and watching wet slides rain down around the valley. Even the retreat back to maroon lake was demanding with our sleds constantly careening off the trail into trees and flipping over. As Ben put it, "These mountains hate us," and it certainly felt so. After such a defeat, I was determined to go back and get my revenge. slide coming off the east face of north maroon North West Ridge of North Maroon, April 11th ~18 miles? ~6000 ft? Four months later the snow pack's looking much better and the weather is beautiful. Between a recent trip to RMNP having climbed Martha on Mt. Lady Washington, and all of the recent reports of others getting after it around the state, (which by the way great work to all of you ,you know ,who you are this season - it's been an impressive winter for 14ers), I'm feeling it's about time to finish that vendetta that's been stewing all winter. Event 1: Bike The gypsy wagon 3:00 am always comes a little too quick. Still, today's looking good, with a dry road from Lazy T and the knowledge of no skinning those mundane 5 miles to Maroon Lake. I got the bike loaded and pedaled off into the night. An hour later the lake was in sight and the bike stashed, though it would have been nice to just continue cruising up to Crater, but alas nothing can ever just be easy... Event 2: skis Right on cue, the tone of the day switched. Skinning from Maroon lake to Crater lake became more hiking in ski boots while carrying skis instead, perfect. Still, it went quick and soon I was staring up Minnehaha gulch. Being my first time up Minnehaha, I was quite unfamiliar with the route up to the upper basin between North Maroon and Sleeping Sexton. Once again, skinning became hiking and battling thick willows uphill, which seemed to behave very much like the trees in The Wizard of Oz with my skis and backpack. Sometime around 8:00 I entered the basin truimphantly and marched on to Gunsight pass. A rough outline of the NW ridge with the alternate couloir start (not via gunsight). Event 3: Boots After taking a short break I got my crampons on and stashed the skis near the base of Gunsight pass. It was only 9:00, but it had already felt like a good day out, and the real climbing was only just about to start. Still, I knew what I signed up for and trudged on up. Opting out of the proper Gunsight pass access to the NW ridge, I took a shady couloir that begins on the far western edge of the north face (I believe another team recently posted a trip report using this same couloir). The snow was decent but still maybe 6 inches of soft on top; not too terrible to move up but not fast by any means. For reference, I measure about 40-45 degrees for the first half, and at the steepest section where the couloir narrows up it was just under 55 degrees. Within the hour I had topped the couloir out and working my way up the ridge. The thighs were burning now. look up the alternate to gunsight pass Looking out over the north face Not too much to be said about the ridge, just typical elk range choss and endless ledges. At 11:15 I reached the summit and briefly enjoyed my new throne. It would seem I've taken 2nd place in the North Maroon triathlon today. He probably skipped the bike portion though... South Maroon and the traverse looking full value Event 4: Escape The ridge line down was straightforward, however, the prospect of down climbing the couloir I had ascended didn't seem particularly enjoyable, so naturally I found a way to make it harder. Assuming Gunsight pass could be no worse, if not better, I continued down the ridge pass my original line. Well, I'm guessing you know why we shouldn't assume anything. Arrival at Gunsight found me tempted to climb the several hundred feet back up the ridge to descend the original couloir, but tired legs swayed me otherwise. At the top was rather omnious cornice with a lovely overhang and 10-20 feet of nigh vertical snow below. The only weakness lay on the Maroon side against the rock where the overhang of the cornice was nearly absent. It is worth noting that some wise person has left a piton and sling at the top so as to avoid such a predicament as mine, should you have brought a rope along unlike me. Hooking my axe through the sling and dry tooling with the other, I was able to lower myself past the overhang and begin down climbing the snow wall. With no small amount of luck and plenty of anxiety, I eventually found myself back at the skis. The upper basin was a treat to ski after all hard work prior, I only wish I'd had fresher legs to due those turns justice. In hopes of avoiding the willow labyrinth I had battled that morning, I chose to wander further north and east into Minnehaha gulch before commiting back towards Crater Lake. As it turns out, following the creek was the wrong choice due to the waterfall. After skinning back up and around the falls, and much more careful navigation, I found my way back to Crater lake and continued on with the retreat. Finally, I arrived at Maroon lake, mounted up, and cruised back to the car. What a day! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Bikes, Boots, and Skis - NW Ridge

North Maroon has been on my short list since about September last after a great summer of alpine climbing and a trip up the Y couloir on south Maroon. Finally this past January a friend and I took a go at N Maroon, hoping for a winter ascent. It was a brutal and complete shutdown having only made 600ft in 5 hours, battling waist to chest deep snow on 60 degree slopes the entire way, and watching wet slides rain down around the valley. Even the retreat back to maroon lake was demanding with our sleds constantly careening off the trail into trees and flipping over. As Ben put it, "These mountains hate us," and it certainly felt so. After such a defeat, I was determined to go back and get my revenge.

slide coming off the east face of north maroon

North West Ridge of North Maroon, April 11th
~18 miles? ~6000 ft?

Four months later the snow pack's looking much better and the weather is beautiful. Between a recent trip to RMNP having climbed Martha on Mt. Lady Washington, and all of the recent reports of others getting after it around the state, (which by the way great work to all of you ,you know ,who you are this season - it's been an impressive winter for 14ers), I'm feeling it's about time to finish that vendetta that's been stewing all winter.

Event 1: Bike

3:00 am always comes a little too quick. Still, today's looking good, with a dry road from Lazy T and the knowledge of no skinning those mundane 5 miles to Maroon Lake. I got the bike loaded and pedaled off into the night. An hour later the lake was in sight and the bike stashed, though it would have been nice to just continue cruising up to Crater, but alas nothing can ever just be easy...

Event 2: skis

Right on cue, the tone of the day switched. Skinning from Maroon lake to Crater lake became more hiking in ski boots while carrying skis instead, perfect. Still, it went quick and soon I was staring up Minnehaha gulch.

Being my first time up Minnehaha, I was quite unfamiliar with the route up to the upper basin between North Maroon and Sleeping Sexton. Once again, skinning became hiking and battling thick willows uphill, which seemed to behave very much like the trees in The Wizard of Oz with my skis and backpack. Sometime around 8:00 I entered the basin truimphantly and marched on to Gunsight pass.

A rough outline of the NW ridge with the alternate couloir start (not via gunsight).

Event 3: Boots

After taking a short break I got my crampons on and stashed the skis near the base of Gunsight pass. It was only 9:00, but it had already felt like a good day out, and the real climbing was only just about to start. Still, I knew what I signed up for and trudged on up. Opting out of the proper Gunsight pass access to the NW ridge, I took a shady couloir that begins on the far western edge of the north face (I believe another team recently posted a trip report using this same couloir). The snow was decent but still maybe 6 inches of soft on top; not too terrible to move up but not fast by any means. For reference, I measure about 40-45 degrees for the first half, and at the steepest section where the couloir narrows up it was just under 55 degrees. Within the hour I had topped the couloir out and working my way up the ridge. The thighs were burning now.

Not too much to be said about the ridge, just typical elk range choss and endless ledges. At 11:15 I reached the summit and briefly enjoyed my new throne.

It would seem I've taken 2nd place in the North Maroon triathlon today. He probably skipped the bike portion though...

South Maroon and the traverse looking full value

Event 4: Escape
The ridge line down was straightforward, however, the prospect of down climbing the couloir I had ascended didn't seem particularly enjoyable, so naturally I found a way to make it harder. Assuming Gunsight pass could be no worse, if not better, I continued down the ridge pass my original line. Well, I'm guessing you know why we shouldn't assume anything. Arrival at Gunsight found me tempted to climb the several hundred feet back up the ridge to descend the original couloir, but tired legs swayed me otherwise. At the top was rather omnious cornice with a lovely overhang and 10-20 feet of nigh vertical snow below. The only weakness lay on the Maroon side against the rock where the overhang of the cornice was nearly absent. It is worth noting that some wise person has left a piton and sling at the top so as to avoid such a predicament as mine, should you have brought a rope along unlike me. Hooking my axe through the sling and dry tooling with the other, I was able to lower myself past the overhang and begin down climbing the snow wall. With no small amount of luck and plenty of anxiety, I eventually found myself back at the skis.

The upper basin was a treat to ski after all hard work prior, I only wish I'd had fresher legs to due those turns justice. In hopes of avoiding the willow labyrinth I had battled that morning, I chose to wander further north and east into Minnehaha gulch before commiting back towards Crater Lake. As it turns out, following the creek was the wrong choice due to the waterfall. After skinning back up and around the falls, and much more careful navigation, I found my way back to Crater lake and continued on with the retreat. Finally, I arrived at Maroon lake, mounted up, and cruised back to the car. What a day!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

blazintoes	Planes, trains and automobiles 4/14/2015 4:18am Nice use of all available resources. You down climbed the Gunsite? Whoa!!!!!!!!
FireOnTheMountain	rad man 4/15/2015 9:42pm way to get her good

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