El Diente Peak Trip Report 04/19/2015

Peak(s):	El Diente Peak - 14,175 feet
Date Posted:	04/19/2015
Modified:	05/09/2022
Date Climbed:	04/13/2015
Author:	moneymike

I Like My 14ers Like I Like My Pasta...El Diente
Stats RT Distance: ~10 mi RT Time: 12:43 Elevation Gain: ~6000' This is the story of my ski descent of the "Luttrell" line on El Diente. The climb and the ski went down, this day, without a hitch. It was a perfect summit ski descent, with lots of vert, lots of miles, and the satisfaction that a solo climb provides. I was, pretty much, "da man" this day. However, I do have one confession to make. This wasn't my first attempt at this line. No, this was actually my second attempt. And my first attempt was pretty inglorious, to say the least. It was the spring of 2011. At this time, I had a few 14er ski descents under my belt, but I hadn't yet decided I wanted to ski them all. And I certainly didn't have a huge desire to ski the "unofficial" 14er, El Diente, but my buddy Austin was well on his 14er mission and needed to get this one done and wanted me to come along. And so I did. We arrived at the Silver Pick trailhead a little before sundown, and started pounding back the brews we picked up in Montrose. Well, I should say that Austin "started" to drink. I, on the other hand, wasn't the driver and therefore had a massive head start on the drinking by the time we arrived. Just as I was about to do the responsible thing and cut myself off, a young man named Abe showed up with a growler of an irresistible porter. Determined to undermine his competition, he proceeded to selfishly share his beer with his inebriated pals. Abe's sinister plan worked. I slept through my alarm and was finally awakened by the two of them shouting at me that they were going to leave soon. Without enough time to re-hydrate or to eat a proper breakfast, I compromised by downing nearly a gallon of whole milk. It would turn out later in the day that this was not a good idea. Within minutes of waking up, I was ready to hit the trail. I set out at full steam, leaving the other two in my dust. Well, for the first five minutes or so. I soon realized that I had not recovered. In a matter of minutes, they caught up to me. A couple minutes later, they passed me for good. The route proceeds into an alpine basin, passes over a 13,000' saddle (rock of ages saddle), and then drops a thousand feet down into another basin towards the base of the NW slope of El Diente. By the time I got to the rock of ages saddle, Abe and Austin were so far ahead of me, I couldn't even see them. The Luttrell line follows a wide open couloir up the NW face, into a narrow couloir above 13,500', follows a short, exposed traverse, and then takes a narrow couloir to the summit. Long story short, I never really recovered from the previous night's events. By the time I made it to the entrance of the lower narrow couloir, Abe and Austin had summited and descended down to my level. I continued to press on to the top of the couloir where it intersects with the traverse. I was pretty sure that I was not feeling up for a summit attempt, but I wanted to make it to a low angle ledge. I know that pooping on 14ers is taboo, so I won't say why I needed to make it to a low angle ledge. Let's just say, I learned my lesson about starting a climb with a gallon of whole milk. The day was a bust, but I had a new found respect for that mountain and that line. I knew I would have to come back again for it some day. April 12, 2015, I came back for El Diente. Having learned from my previous mistakes, I went to bed with a much more reasonable amount of beer. I car camped at a pull out at 10,000' elevation, on the road to Silver Pick basin. I hit the trail at 4:30 the next morning, and made it to the top of the rock of ages saddle, just as the sun was rising over the high peaks to the east. El Diente from rock of ages saddle Close up of El Diente A quick ski down from the saddle, brought me to the base of El Diente. Looking up at El Diente Around the corner to the right is the gully I want At 12,200' elevation, I switched to crampons and began booting up the rock hard, wind packed snow. I could see the faint remnants of a couple climbers/skiers who had been there recently. Wind erosion had transformed their booter from an innie to an outie (some of you are familiar with this effect, but if you are not, look for the tracks in the youtube video below). Interestingly, the ski tracks were much better preserved. Wind eroded booter to right At the top of the first narrow couloir which ends at the traverse, I studied the traverse and the couloir above it to decide how the descent would proceed. The previous skier's tracks indicated that there would be a lot of side stepping in the couloir, but the traverse would be a straight forward descending ski traverse (let me just point out that the previous skier was an obviously skilled skier, judging by his tracks. His side stepping did not appear to be a result of a lack of skill). I had brought a snow picket to leave at the cornice at the entrance to the traverse, to help me climb out of it on the way down. Austin and Abe had to spend a few minutes hacking out a ski path on their way up, back in 2011. It turned out that the cornice, or wind lip if you want to call it that, was not as bad this time around and I didn't need to use the picket or hack out a path. The traverse Looking down the couloir before the traverse Looking down during the traverse The couloir above the traverse was steep and narrow. The bottom was wide enough for jump turns, but just out of view in image 8 was a very narrow section which would require side stepping. Above the narrow section, it opened up where a few more turns could be made, and above that was a mandatory side stepping, narrow rocky section that lead to the summit. I made the summit a little after noon, and was pleasantly surprised to see that I would be able to ski directly off the summit. Summit Looking down the line from the summit Mt. Wilson Wilson Peak (dry!) Dust to the west Me Then began the descent. I wasn't trying to follow the previous skiers tracks, but found that I was anyhow. I sometimes get a little frustrated when I follow a skier who side steps too much. This was not the case this time. I stepped where he stepped and found myself making jump turns where he did. Looking down towards traverse. Narrow section out of view Looking towards the summit on right Below the narrows, looking at the traverse With careful turns and some side stepping (more than I've ever done on any other 14er), I made my way down and across the traverse. The couloir below the traverse was steep, but easily wide enough for jump turns. I felt like I was in the clear, and could really start enjoying my descent. I had a bit of lunch, and then skied down. Uncompaghre and Wetterhorn to the east Sneffels seen from the traverse Looking down at the base of the lower narrow couloir Looking up the lower narrow couloir The weather was perfect. I was not in any hurry to descend. I took several breaks on the way down just to breath and enjoy the views. At the base, I switched back to skins and made my way back to rock of ages saddle, a mile away and a thousand feet up. Rock of Ages Saddle At the top of the saddle, I couldn't help but just relax up there. Enjoying the day took precedence over making an impressive round trip time. Silver Pick basin from saddle Wilson Peak from Silver Pick basin I made my way out of the basin to the road, and then skied soupy mashed potatoes from tree line down almost to my car. The mountain gods had smiled on me this day. El Diente had forgiven me for pooping all over his face (not many people I know could do this), and treated me with a perfect summit descent and beautiful weather. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

I Like My 14ers Like I Like My Pasta...El Diente

Stats
RT Distance: ~10 mi
RT Time: 12:43
Elevation Gain: ~6000'

This is the story of my ski descent of the "Luttrell" line on El Diente. The climb and the ski went down, this day, without a hitch. It was a perfect summit ski descent, with lots of vert, lots of miles, and the satisfaction that a solo climb provides. I was, pretty much, "da man" this day. However, I do have one confession to make. This wasn't my first attempt at this line. No, this was actually my second attempt. And my first attempt was pretty inglorious, to say the least.

It was the spring of 2011. At this time, I had a few 14er ski descents under my belt, but I hadn't yet decided I wanted to ski them all. And I certainly didn't have a huge desire to ski the "unofficial" 14er, El Diente, but my buddy Austin was well on his 14er mission and needed to get this one done and wanted me to come along. And so I did.

We arrived at the Silver Pick trailhead a little before sundown, and started pounding back the brews we picked up in Montrose. Well, I should say that Austin "started" to drink. I, on the other hand, wasn't the driver and therefore had a massive head start on the drinking by the time we arrived.

Just as I was about to do the responsible thing and cut myself off, a young man named Abe showed up with a growler of an irresistible porter. Determined to undermine his competition, he proceeded to selfishly share his beer with his inebriated pals.

Abe's sinister plan worked. I slept through my alarm and was finally awakened by the two of them shouting at me that they were going to leave soon. Without enough time to re-hydrate or to eat a proper breakfast, I compromised by downing nearly a gallon of whole milk. It would turn out later in the day that this was not a good idea.

Within minutes of waking up, I was ready to hit the trail. I set out at full steam, leaving the other two in my dust. Well, for the first five minutes or so. I soon realized that I had not recovered. In a matter of minutes, they caught up to me. A couple minutes later, they passed me for good.

The route proceeds into an alpine basin, passes over a 13,000' saddle (rock of ages saddle), and then drops a thousand feet down into another basin towards the base of the NW slope of El Diente. By the time I got to the rock of ages saddle, Abe and Austin were so far ahead of me, I couldn't even see them.

The Luttrell line follows a wide open couloir up the NW face, into a narrow couloir above 13,500', follows a short, exposed traverse, and then takes a narrow couloir to the summit. Long story short, I never really recovered from the previous night's events. By the time I made it to the entrance of the lower narrow couloir, Abe and Austin had summited and descended down to my level. I continued to press on to the top of the couloir where it intersects with the traverse.

I was pretty sure that I was not feeling up for a summit attempt, but I wanted to make it to a low angle ledge. I know that pooping on 14ers is taboo, so I won't say why I needed to make it to a low angle ledge. Let's just say, I learned my lesson about starting a climb with a gallon of whole milk.

The day was a bust, but I had a new found respect for that mountain and that line. I knew I would have to come back again for it some day.

April 12, 2015, I came back for El Diente. Having learned from my previous mistakes, I went to bed with a much more reasonable amount of beer. I car camped at a pull out at 10,000' elevation, on the road to Silver Pick basin.

I hit the trail at 4:30 the next morning, and made it to the top of the rock of ages saddle, just as the sun was rising over the high peaks to the east.

A quick ski down from the saddle, brought me to the base of El Diente.

Around the corner to the right is the gully I want

At 12,200' elevation, I switched to crampons and began booting up the rock hard, wind packed snow. I could see the faint remnants of a couple climbers/skiers who had been there recently. Wind erosion had transformed their booter from an innie to an outie (some of you are familiar with this effect, but if you are not, look for the tracks in the youtube video below). Interestingly, the ski tracks were much better preserved.

At the top of the first narrow couloir which ends at the traverse, I studied the traverse and the couloir above it to decide how the descent would proceed. The previous skier's tracks indicated that there would be a lot of side stepping in the couloir, but the traverse would be a straight forward descending ski traverse (let me just point out that the previous skier was an obviously skilled skier, judging by his tracks. His side stepping did not appear to be a result of a lack of skill). I had brought a snow picket to leave at the cornice at the entrance to the traverse, to help me climb out of it on the way down. Austin and Abe had to spend a few minutes hacking out a ski path on their way up, back in 2011. It turned out that the cornice, or wind lip if you want to call it that, was not as bad this time around and I didn't need to use the picket or hack out a path.

Looking down the couloir before the traverse

The couloir above the traverse was steep and narrow. The bottom was wide enough for jump turns, but just out of view in image 8 was a very narrow section which would require side stepping. Above the narrow section, it opened up where a few more turns could be made, and above that was a mandatory side stepping, narrow rocky section that lead to the summit.

I made the summit a little after noon, and was pleasantly surprised to see that I would be able to ski directly off the summit.

Then began the descent. I wasn't trying to follow the previous skiers tracks, but found that I was anyhow. I sometimes get a little frustrated when I follow a skier who side steps too much. This was not the case this time. I stepped where he stepped and found myself making jump turns where he did.

Looking down towards traverse. Narrow section out of view

Below the narrows, looking at the traverse

With careful turns and some side stepping (more than I've ever done on any other 14er), I made my way down and across the traverse. The couloir below the traverse was steep, but easily wide enough for jump turns. I felt like I was in the clear, and could really start enjoying my descent. I had a bit of lunch, and then skied down.

Looking down at the base of the lower narrow couloir

The weather was perfect. I was not in any hurry to descend. I took several breaks on the way down just to breath and enjoy the views.

At the base, I switched back to skins and made my way back to rock of ages saddle, a mile away and a thousand feet up.

At the top of the saddle, I couldn't help but just relax up there. Enjoying the day took precedence over making an impressive round trip time.

I made my way out of the basin to the road, and then skied soupy mashed potatoes from tree line down almost to my car.

The mountain gods had smiled on me this day. El Diente had forgiven me for pooping all over his face (not many people I know could do this), and treated me with a perfect summit descent and beautiful weather.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

TakeMeToYourSummit	Funny... 4/20/2015 2:46am ...thing Mike... my wife (Xime), Natalie, and I were just eating pizza & the topic of your remaining ski solos came up. This pretty much answers that question! Awesome work - as per the usual!
bergsteigen	Side Stepping 4/20/2015 3:58pm Not sure I can get excited about a route that requires this much side stepping... Maybe in a better snow year?
SnowAlien	Badass 4/20/2015 5:10pm One left! I want you be done with 14er project already (safely!) so we can ski again. Selfish, I know. Elks were looking prime through the clouds yesterday.
SchralpTheGnar	boom 4/20/2015 6:50pm kaboom goes the boom, nice work dude, way to work it off the bone.
moneymike	TakeMeToYourSummit: 4/20/2015 9:49pm Capitol Peak and Wilson Peak are the only ones I haven’t soloed (as of right now). Hope you’re enjoying the new snow in the Elks. Bergsteigen: The "required" amount of side stepping wasn’t too extensive, just two short sections (above the fox traverse) where my tips and tails were hanging up on the rocks. Don’t get me wrong, I found this to be a very aesthetic line, so don’t let the side stepping persuade you otherwise. The required side stepping on El Diente was considerably less than your side stepping on Kepplinger’s. Also, it’s probably good that you are not excited about this line since (in my opinion), this is one of the most difficult and dangerous of the 14ers. You might want to save El Diente until you’re ready for the worst of them. And, yes, I do believe in a better snow year, a skilled skier could make jump turns all the way down. SnowAlien: We’ll ski again soon enough. I hope you’re enjoying this latest storm. Looking forward to your next tr. SchralpTheGnar: Thanks, man, I was pretty excited that I was able to get a clean summit descent considering how extremely dry its neighbors, the Wilsons are.
ap snow	Sweet! 4/20/2015 10:21pm Great job as always Money! Looking forward to Capitol
moneymike	ap snow: 4/20/2015 10:40pm Thanks, Austin. I wouldn’t say I’m looking forward to Capitol...maybe looking forward to getting it over with
dsimoens	Coors 4/21/2015 1:44am Hey man could you see the Coors face on Wilson? What did it look like?
moneymike	I posted a Condition Update 4/21/2015 7:22pm on Wilson peak’s coors line a few weeks ago. Click on the "Condition Updates" tab and then on Wilson Peak. It was looking very thin. Edit: Here’s the link http://14ers.com/php14ers/peakstatus_entry.php?recnum=4339
starsstuff	Buon appetito! 4/24/2015 2:41am Great trip report title... one of my new favorites!
dillonsarnelli	pasta 4/25/2015 1:20am TR approved by an Italian from NJ. Good stuff as always Mike! drink less porter, more ipa
moneymike	Thanks starsstuff 4/28/2015 9:43pm I’ve been wanting to ski that peak for years just so I could write a report with that title
moneymike	Awesome, 4/28/2015 9:45pm I’ve got the NJ Italian seal of approval!
FireOnTheMountain	you are 5/1/2015 6:35pm a funny mother fu**er. Congrats dude! Luttrell is gangster. I’ll take a couple Ruinations next time we meet up, you know, as pay back for the porter
moneymike	Ok, Ruination it is... 5/10/2015 9:22am ...your ruination

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