OTHER Trip Report 05/07/2015

Peak(s):	Mt. Rainier - 14411
Date Posted:	05/07/2015
Date Climbed:	05/02/2015
Author:	Brimstone10

Mount Rainier - May 2, 2015
On Thursday April 30, myself along with 2 friends (Jeff and Jeff) flew to Seattle for and attempt to climb Mount Rainier. We flew out of Denver at 8:30pm, got to SeaTac at 10:15 & picked up the rental car to head for Nisqually where we had a room waiting for us. We got to the room around 1am and began going over our gear by sorting out who would carry what and making sure we all had everything we needed and nothing we didn't. I think I finally laid down to go to sleep around 4am. We go up around 9am, packed our bags & had a continental breakfast before checking out & heading to Whittaker Mountaineering to pick up a few last minute items. We drove up to Paradise, moaned and groaned as we strapped on our ~32lb packs and headed for Camp Muir at 1:30pm. Jeff, Mark, Jeff ready to hit the trail The weather was awesome with a temp around 55 degrees at Paradise and nary a cloud in the sky. As we approached the 2 mile mark, the clouds moved in and made for some interesting / whiteout type conditions as we pushed on through them. Jeff hiking through the clouds That lasted about a mile and once through it was blue sky's and warm temps all the way to Muir. Mark & Jeff just above the clouds on the way to Muir Mark & Jeff arriving at Muir Upon arriving at Muir we found that the public shelter was nearly full due to a boy scout troop and their leaders staying there. There was just enough room left for the 3 of us to set up our sleeping bags and cook a quick dinner before snapping some sunset pics of the valley below and hitting the hay. Looking towards Paradise upon arriving at Muir Sunset from Muir Sunset from Muir The alarm went off at 2am so we drug ourselves out of bed, ate breakfast, put our gear on, roped up and hit the glacier at 3:15am by headlamp. It was a clear night and nearly a full moon that was so bright we almost could of gone w/o headlamps. The climb was uneventful until we got above the Ingraham Flats and onto Ingraham glacier. While heading up the glacier we came across 5 total crevasses that had to be crossed. There were no ladders or bridges in place so the only way across was to jump. The 1st was the widest at approx. 4 feet wide. While standing at the edge and contemplating what had to be done, our lead man took a good 2 minutes to think over the jump. After providing slack in our rope to our lead guy (Jeff) and anchoring our axes in case he didn't make the jump, our he took the leap and made it across with room to spare and not too much of a mess in his pants. I followed and was awarded a tug on the rope from him as I jumped to help ensure my safe crossing and I returned the favor to the last man (other Jeff) in our team. We all made it across safely and continued on our way, crossing the remaining 4 crevasses in the same fashion. Shortly after the Ingraham Glacier route met up with the DC route the sun began to rise, awarding us with some awesome sights and photo opportunities. Heading up Ingraham Glacier. The 1st crevasse we had to cross can be seen just behind us Sunrise on the Glacier Sunrise Selfie on the Glacier Jeff & Mark traversing w/Adams in the background As we continued up the DC route we hit the most strenuous part of the climb. It was a long, steady slope that climbed from around 12600 to 14200'. I feel as though we had an advantage while climbing Rainier from living in Denver and having climbed to 14k feet numerous times previously. The altitude didn't seem to effect our lungs / breathing, it was my legs that were feeling it more than anything. Up, up, up More climbing Still more climbing We started up this section around 6:15am and arrived at the lowest part of the summit crater at 8:05am which was amazing to see. It was very calm up there with intermittent wind gusts around 20 mph. We set out on the hike across the crater that took about 25 minutes and climbed ~200 more feet to the true summit of Mount Rainier. Crossing the summit crater to Columbia Crest On top of Columbia Crest Jeff, Jeff, Mark After spending a half hour up there taking some pics and videos we began our descent. The descent was pretty uneventful and we passed 2 other groups heading up that were about 3 hours behind us (they started at 6:30am). I was surprised there were only 2 other groups going up with such amazing weather. We made a quick stop back to Muir to pick up a few items we left there while summiting and remove some layers since it was getting hot. The trail on the way down was packed with 100+ people heading up towards Muir. It looked like quandary on a summer weekend. Our total climb time was approx. 27 hours from car to car and was an amazing experience to say the least. It's a challenging but fun climb and I'm looking forward to going back to do it again. Crevasse Jeff on Ingraham Glacier Large cravasse One of crevasses we had to jump Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Mount Rainier - May 2, 2015

On Thursday April 30, myself along with 2 friends (Jeff and Jeff) flew to Seattle for and attempt to climb Mount Rainier. We flew out of Denver at 8:30pm, got to SeaTac at 10:15 & picked up the rental car to head for Nisqually where we had a room waiting for us. We got to the room around 1am and began going over our gear by sorting out who would carry what and making sure we all had everything we needed and nothing we didn't. I think I finally laid down to go to sleep around 4am.

We go up around 9am, packed our bags & had a continental breakfast before checking out & heading to Whittaker Mountaineering to pick up a few last minute items. We drove up to Paradise, moaned and groaned as we strapped on our ~32lb packs and headed for Camp Muir at 1:30pm.

The weather was awesome with a temp around 55 degrees at Paradise and nary a cloud in the sky. As we approached the 2 mile mark, the clouds moved in and made for some interesting / whiteout type conditions as we pushed on through them.

That lasted about a mile and once through it was blue sky's and warm temps all the way to Muir.

Mark & Jeff just above the clouds on the way to Muir

Upon arriving at Muir we found that the public shelter was nearly full due to a boy scout troop and their leaders staying there. There was just enough room left for the 3 of us to set up our sleeping bags and cook a quick dinner before snapping some sunset pics of the valley below and hitting the hay.

Looking towards Paradise upon arriving at Muir

The alarm went off at 2am so we drug ourselves out of bed, ate breakfast, put our gear on, roped up and hit the glacier at 3:15am by headlamp. It was a clear night and nearly a full moon that was so bright we almost could of gone w/o headlamps. The climb was uneventful until we got above the Ingraham Flats and onto Ingraham glacier. While heading up the glacier we came across 5 total crevasses that had to be crossed. There were no ladders or bridges in place so the only way across was to jump. The 1st was the widest at approx. 4 feet wide. While standing at the edge and contemplating what had to be done, our lead man took a good 2 minutes to think over the jump. After providing slack in our rope to our lead guy (Jeff) and anchoring our axes in case he didn't make the jump, our he took the leap and made it across with room to spare and not too much of a mess in his pants. I followed and was awarded a tug on the rope from him as I jumped to help ensure my safe crossing and I returned the favor to the last man (other Jeff) in our team. We all made it across safely and continued on our way, crossing the remaining 4 crevasses in the same fashion.

Shortly after the Ingraham Glacier route met up with the DC route the sun began to rise, awarding us with some awesome sights and photo opportunities.

Heading up Ingraham Glacier. The 1st crevasse we had to cross can be seen just behind us

Jeff & Mark traversing w/Adams in the background

As we continued up the DC route we hit the most strenuous part of the climb. It was a long, steady slope that climbed from around 12600 to 14200'. I feel as though we had an advantage while climbing Rainier from living in Denver and having climbed to 14k feet numerous times previously. The altitude didn't seem to effect our lungs / breathing, it was my legs that were feeling it more than anything.

We started up this section around 6:15am and arrived at the lowest part of the summit crater at 8:05am which was amazing to see. It was very calm up there with intermittent wind gusts around 20 mph. We set out on the hike across the crater that took about 25 minutes and climbed ~200 more feet to the true summit of Mount Rainier.

Crossing the summit crater to Columbia Crest

After spending a half hour up there taking some pics and videos we began our descent. The descent was pretty uneventful and we passed 2 other groups heading up that were about 3 hours behind us (they started at 6:30am). I was surprised there were only 2 other groups going up with such amazing weather. We made a quick stop back to Muir to pick up a few items we left there while summiting and remove some layers since it was getting hot. The trail on the way down was packed with 100+ people heading up towards Muir. It looked like quandary on a summer weekend. Our total climb time was approx. 27 hours from car to car and was an amazing experience to say the least. It's a challenging but fun climb and I'm looking forward to going back to do it again.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Brimstone10	From Above 5/10/2015 9:22am glenmiz, were you on a southwest flight? I remember seeing a southwest looking plane (red/blue) going over right about the time we were getting to the top. My buddies and I were commenting on how close it looked like the plane was. jwendling, we made the jump very carefully with our packs on. I was more worried about snagging my crampon on my gaiter while making the jump more than anything.
glenmiz	From above 5/10/2015 9:22am We flew out of Seattle by way of Phoenix back to Denver the day you summited. The flight path took us right over the top of you about the time you were on the summit. It was a beautiful day and, thanks to the unusual flight path, an incredible view of the mountain. I hope to be on top of that one some day. Congratulations!
globreal	It looks awesome! 5/10/2015 9:22am That mountain is so different from what we have here in Colorado. Thanks for your report. I am heading there in a few weeks and this gets me all the more excited to go.
I Man	very cool 5/10/2015 9:22am Nice work getting Rainier early season!
jwendling	Nice Job! 5/10/2015 9:22am Just a silly question, but I’m trying to picture jumping over crevasses. Did you take your backpacks off and throw them over first? I know......just wondering though.
MatB	Nice pics! 5/10/2015 9:22am Thanks for sharing, you took some beautiful pictures.
MountainHiker	Nice Report 5/10/2015 9:22am Quick trip! Thanks for sharing.
SurfNTurf	Nice work! 5/10/2015 9:23am Mt. Rainier is amazing. Congrats on your successful climb.

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