Snowmass Mountain Trip Report 05/15/2015

Peak(s):	Snowmass Mountain - 14,105 feet
Date Posted:	05/15/2015
Modified:	05/19/2015
Date Climbed:	05/14/2015
Author:	Grimpeur

Worth it, maybe?
Snowmass Mountain Standard East Slopes ~21 miles, 5700 ft Well, I'll try to stay brief on this report, just some good beta for aspiring sloggers and gear abusers. Snowmass caught my attention several years ago on my first 14er trip, La Plata or Massive I believe. I remember seeing the namesake snowfield and being in awe, what a line. Finally, maybe 6 years later I find myself ready: the right gear, the time, and (at least we all like to believe) the right skills. And of course, it wouldn't be in my style to bring a partner (I really just need more friends, or maybe a better schedule). Anyways, I think this makes my 24th 14er, and leaves only Castle and Conundrum left to do in the Elks. So, the details. Snowmass from the east, standard route, is long, or at least it felt so this time, and I'm no stranger to slogging. However, I think what made it so miserably never ending was the snow coverage. Important, if you're going to attempt in late spring, be ready for horrible snow coverage down low. The snow began around 9500 (ballpark) after 4-5 miles in, right after the first big switchbacks that bring you up onto the shelf. The snow did not become consistent till maybe 10,500 once you entered the trees a half mile after the log jam crossing. Skinning through here was horrible unpleasant as I had to alternate between carrying my skis on my shoulders and skinning maybe 10 times. It was just enough snow to not want to post hole and skin instead, but not enough to get a good rhythm/pace going. I would highly recommend waiting maybe 2-3 weeks and letting the patches melt out and let the coverage become a little more consistent and move up higher. I was very glad I chose to do this one overnight as that would have been a loooong day and probably a deal break if I had had to negotiate, and navigate, the trail in one day. the first 4-5 miles were mostly dry and went very fast patchy snow The log jam, interesting in ski boots looking back at the log jam, the snow became consistent shortly after where this photo was taken Snowmass lake at dusk I left camp at Snowmass Lake 5:45 and skinned maybe halfway up the right side of the opening headwall before it got too steep and I broke out the axe and crampons. It seemed to me that far right of the headwall seemed the safest route as it looked really wind scoured and firm, although I really didn't think anything was going to slide based off what I had already seen/felt, but it's always good to be thinking about that kind of stuff. It seemed to hold right around 35 degrees for maybe 500 ft in the middle and then might have steepened up to 40 degrees near the top 200 ft; all prime slide terrain. You top out a little over 12,000 after this first section and it gets pretty mellow for aways. At the base of the first headwall, far right near the dry, rocky slope seemed the best way up this section Snowmass' mass of snow The summit is the rocky/cliffy point to the right; the standard route takes you up the snowy pt, ~13,600, in the center of th Looking down the bulk of the bowl The summit ridge from the pt at ~13, 600 The upper bowl is pretty simple and pretty manageable if you still have doubts after the first section. It look possible to pick a route up the field that didn't exceed 30 degrees if your heart so desired, but you will inevitably have to pass through steep stuff again to gain the ridge top, so don't get too excited. I however chose to go more or less straight up the center, which in other conditions might have been reasonable, however I soon found it was just steep enough that I couldn't skin, and firm enough that switchbacking wasn't really an option. So I donned crampons again and found that while it was too firm to skin, it wasn't quite strong enough to hold me without skis and so I began a lovely time of crusty, shin high postholing. This would probably be a prime example of when to use ski mounted crampons; bring them if you have them. This is where I really started to lose momentum and slow down a lot. It was one of those rare times when I really had to focus on just doing 15 step intervals with a short rest, just very physically demanding stuff at 13,000 with skis on your back. Still, I managed to work through it and get up to the broad point at ~13,600 and dropped my skis there. Hindsight, I would have carried my skis maybe another 200 yds up the ridge where the snow met the ridge again. It looked pretty steep from the part of the ridge, but was open and had an incredibly nice run out. I was simply just done carrying those things and eager to dump them for awhile. The Bells Summit The summit ridge went smoothly, only a few sections that might have been class 3-4, I'm sure with out the steep snow coverage on the sides this stuff would be a little bit more avoidable, but still if you've made it this far at this time of year (mid-May) in these conditions, you should be okay with a class 4 move or two and front pointing in ski boots. Summitted at 10:20 and enjoyed it maybe for 5 minutes as the clouds to the west didn't look promising. It felt really brief for all the miles and hours it took to get there, but sometimes that's how it goes, oh well. I was back at the skis maybe in 15 minutes and getting geared up. With impending doom on the horizon (lets just imagine it was going to be really bad) I got into speed mode. Starting the ski at around 13,600 from the snowy point, it took me maybe less than 15 minutes to get back down to Snowmass lake at 10,980, wish it worked like that going up. Shortly after I had the mid packed up and was headed out. I think it took maybe 4 hours to the 8 miles out and get back to the car; keep in mind I was still negotiating the inconsistent snow patches on the way out too. Still, all said and done, it was a success. Once again, keep in mind all of this is for a transitional late spring snow pack. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Worth it, maybe?

Snowmass Mountain
Standard East Slopes
~21 miles, 5700 ft

Well, I'll try to stay brief on this report, just some good beta for aspiring sloggers and gear abusers.
Snowmass caught my attention several years ago on my first 14er trip, La Plata or Massive I believe. I remember seeing the namesake snowfield and being in awe, what a line. Finally, maybe 6 years later I find myself ready: the right gear, the time, and (at least we all like to believe) the right skills. And of course, it wouldn't be in my style to bring a partner (I really just need more friends, or maybe a better schedule). Anyways, I think this makes my 24th 14er, and leaves only Castle and Conundrum left to do in the Elks.

So, the details. Snowmass from the east, standard route, is long, or at least it felt so this time, and I'm no stranger to slogging. However, I think what made it so miserably never ending was the snow coverage. Important, if you're going to attempt in late spring, be ready for horrible snow coverage down low. The snow began around 9500 (ballpark) after 4-5 miles in, right after the first big switchbacks that bring you up onto the shelf. The snow did not become consistent till maybe 10,500 once you entered the trees a half mile after the log jam crossing. Skinning through here was horrible unpleasant as I had to alternate between carrying my skis on my shoulders and skinning maybe 10 times. It was just enough snow to not want to post hole and skin instead, but not enough to get a good rhythm/pace going. I would highly recommend waiting maybe 2-3 weeks and letting the patches melt out and let the coverage become a little more consistent and move up higher. I was very glad I chose to do this one overnight as that would have been a loooong day and probably a deal break if I had had to negotiate, and navigate, the trail in one day.

the first 4-5 miles were mostly dry and went very fast

looking back at the log jam, the snow became consistent shortly after where this photo was taken

I left camp at Snowmass Lake 5:45 and skinned maybe halfway up the right side of the opening headwall before it got too steep and I broke out the axe and crampons. It seemed to me that far right of the headwall seemed the safest route as it looked really wind scoured and firm, although I really didn't think anything was going to slide based off what I had already seen/felt, but it's always good to be thinking about that kind of stuff. It seemed to hold right around 35 degrees for maybe 500 ft in the middle and then might have steepened up to 40 degrees near the top 200 ft; all prime slide terrain. You top out a little over 12,000 after this first section and it gets pretty mellow for aways.

At the base of the first headwall, far right near the dry, rocky slope seemed the best way up this section

The summit is the rocky/cliffy point to the right; the standard route takes you up the snowy pt, ~13,600, in the center of th

The summit ridge from the pt at ~13, 600

The upper bowl is pretty simple and pretty manageable if you still have doubts after the first section. It look possible to pick a route up the field that didn't exceed 30 degrees if your heart so desired, but you will inevitably have to pass through steep stuff again to gain the ridge top, so don't get too excited. I however chose to go more or less straight up the center, which in other conditions might have been reasonable, however I soon found it was just steep enough that I couldn't skin, and firm enough that switchbacking wasn't really an option. So I donned crampons again and found that while it was too firm to skin, it wasn't quite strong enough to hold me without skis and so I began a lovely time of crusty, shin high postholing. This would probably be a prime example of when to use ski mounted crampons; bring them if you have them. This is where I really started to lose momentum and slow down a lot. It was one of those rare times when I really had to focus on just doing 15 step intervals with a short rest, just very physically demanding stuff at 13,000 with skis on your back. Still, I managed to work through it and get up to the broad point at ~13,600 and dropped my skis there. Hindsight, I would have carried my skis maybe another 200 yds up the ridge where the snow met the ridge again. It looked pretty steep from the part of the ridge, but was open and had an incredibly nice run out. I was simply just done carrying those things and eager to dump them for awhile.

The summit ridge went smoothly, only a few sections that might have been class 3-4, I'm sure with out the steep snow coverage on the sides this stuff would be a little bit more avoidable, but still if you've made it this far at this time of year (mid-May) in these conditions, you should be okay with a class 4 move or two and front pointing in ski boots. Summitted at 10:20 and enjoyed it maybe for 5 minutes as the clouds to the west didn't look promising. It felt really brief for all the miles and hours it took to get there, but sometimes that's how it goes, oh well. I was back at the skis maybe in 15 minutes and getting geared up. With impending doom on the horizon (lets just imagine it was going to be really bad) I got into speed mode. Starting the ski at around 13,600 from the snowy point, it took me maybe less than 15 minutes to get back down to Snowmass lake at 10,980, wish it worked like that going up. Shortly after I had the mid packed up and was headed out. I think it took maybe 4 hours to the 8 miles out and get back to the car; keep in mind I was still negotiating the inconsistent snow patches on the way out too. Still, all said and done, it was a success. Once again, keep in mind all of this is for a transitional late spring snow pack.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

lodgling	Bells or Cap? 5/15/2015 3:10pm Congrats on a hard–earned summit. Did you happen to snap any photos of the Bells or Cap?
SoCool	Thank You 5/15/2015 7:20pm Appreciate the info, heading up soon.

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