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My idea was to get a safer way to climb the hourglass. I took the safety of climbing snow at the expense of the work of wading through snow. I was successful, but more tired than I could have been.
With the current bear harassing campers at Lake Como; I suggest camping below the first water crossing and not near the lake. The trail was clear of snow until about a ¼ mile to Lake Como. Then it was still easy to walk on all the way to the lake. Image 1 shows the lake. 1. the Lake Como
On the other side of the lake, the snow got deep and the trail very difficult to follow. Fortunately there was a previous hiker that left a track that I could follow. If it wasn't for him, I would have turned around. I tried following the road and crossing the creak that was flowing under the snow to hook right back to the first gully and up. This was difficult walking. Image 2 shows the hook. 2. approaching the first gully
Image 3 shows the start to the climb of the gully (note that these pictures may not look as steep as they are. 3. climbing the first gully
This involved a lot of walking like a bear to minimize sinking into the snow. I used crampons. An ice ax would have been perfect, but my shortened pole was useful. Before noon, the top inch of snow was refrozen, from the previous night. After noon, with the sun, the snow had a slushy feel to it. Recommend starting as early as possible to make use of the hard surface.
Image 4 shows the view down from the top of the gully. 4. looking back down the first gully
There was some rock climbing as I followed the ridge, but mostly snow. Image 5 shows a big part of that crossing over to the hourglass. 5. following the ridge
You can see the footsteps of the guy before me. This saved me much effort of making footsteps in the snow. Image 6 is a look back across the ridge. 6. looking back across the ridge
Image 7 looks up from the bottom of the hourglass. 7. looking up the hourglass
From hear up I used the previous footsteps to climb the hill like a ladder. I could have made my own, but this was easier. Image 8 is showing the top part of the rope near where it is anchored on. 8. next to the top of the rope
As I did a slight turn to the left, you can then see the top (image 9), noted by where the snow touches the sky. 9. the final leg
Halfway up this section, I noticed that the clouds were quickly building. I was so close to the top that I went for it. I knew that rain or snow would not make things much more dangerous for slipping. Fortunately the clouds passed to the south and I just had to worry about a sunburn.
Image 10 is a look back down the hourglass section. 10. looking down the hourglass
Image 11 is a view from the top looking south. I came up the snow on the right near where my pole is sticking out. 11. the top looking south
I got to the top at 12:39pm. As I was climbing down, I went backwards again like going down a ladder. This was a lot of fun. The snow had softened enough that I could purposefully sink my feet into the snow, taking big steps while not having to fear about falling.
Crossing the ridge was more trouble, as the footsteps had softened, causing me to often sink deep. This part was annoying and slow. Going down the last gully was quick since I used the same backward procedure.
My trip started from my camp site 4 miles below Lake Como. Altogether, the trip took 15.5 hours from 4am till 7:30 pm.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
OK, first off, congrats on making it to the top of Little Bear. You seem to have tons of enthusiasm, and you want to share your experience with the rest of the community. This is great!
A couple of questions/observations here. These are meant to raise people’s awareness in the future and not to necessarily chastise you. My fear is that others may read of your success and then put themselves in danger – you may have gotten a little lucky and it might not work out so well for others.
Beware, I have a habit of sounding like a prick as I lack the tact of a globreal. But I’d rather have one person think I’m a prick if it keeps people safe.
1)Did you check the temperatures up high for the night(s) previous to your ascent? Mountainforecast and noaa are two excellent resources for this - I originally added the links but the links truncated the rest of the comment.
To minimize your risk of getting caught in a wet slide, you want to avoid climbing on snow when it hasn’t been in a freeze/thaw cycle, i.e. dipping under freezing at night and warming back up in the day time. Sometimes you can get away with climbing the day after a not-quite-freezing forecast due to (lets see if I say this correctly) radiant cooling - localized areas where the existing snow helps keep the temperature in the couloir cold enough to freeze. And sometimes the forecasts are wrong, which is why many will actually bring some sort of thermometer with them. You mentioned a part where the top inch of snow seemed to have re-frozen...this is good, but you probably want more, especially given a few of the spots you had to cross (more on that later).
2)Because of the soft snow (yikes) it sounds like you didn’t run much risk of running out of control in case of a fall. I’ve been up the hourglass enough to know that the only time this is true is when the snow is exxxxxxtremely soft, or soft enough to slide any given second. In general, having an ice axe (and not just a hiking pole) handy any time you’re dealing with snow and angled slopes is not just a luxury, it’s a necessity. I personally witnessed a climbing partner nearly kill himself by trying to use a hiking pole as an axe when he slipped on snow and use it to attempt self-arrest. The pole broke instantly. This isn’t a fluke; it’s common and the reason hiking poles are not safe in snow conditions.
3)Back to the soft snow part. Your first picture shows you at Lake Como well after sunrise, and getting to the summit at 12:39PM. Climbing in spring conditions is weird and more fickle - usually, early starts are just as important as they are in summer, but for different reasons. Electrical storms can still occur, but with much less frequency in June. But here’s the thing...the #1 biggest hazard you were able to avoid somehow was triggering even a small wet slide on baking snow. More specifically, the south side of the west ridge, where you were traversing at what, 1:30, 2:00PM? The part where you mention sinking deep and it being annoying. I would venture to say that it might be far, far more serious than annoying, i.e. I’m glad you’re still around. Solution: an earlier start. In this case, if you had moved everything up four hours(yes, to midnight), you would have summitted at 8:39 and been going through the south face gauntlet at 9:30 or 10:00AM, and out of potential slide areas by 11:00.
Anyone else reading this TR needs to know that while climbing Little Bear in the snow is a GREAT way to do it, you need to make sure that certain factors are in place to do it safely. Look for a good freeze/thaw cycle. Carry an ice axe. Start early. Wear a helmet.
Many folks desperately want to climb Little Bear, and I just want to make sure no one is emboldened to just get out there and get it due to reading your TR, which makes it sound trivial (as the title says). I would say this: glad you’re here, glad you got it, realize you got away with a few questionable decisions, learn from them, and you’ll be around to climb with us for a long time to come.
I felt it was quite a bit colder than they forecast, honestly. Mountain forecast called for a lot of rain, and a low of about 40 on the summit. We started seeing our breath at Lake Como around 9pm (meaning it was about 45F or so). Also, while it did rain it was not even enough to completely wet the bottom of a glass, the NWS was at least for that day much closer to reality. You’ll notice in his photos that there is not much slide activity (Photo 6 is a south facing aspect along the ridge) and I was surprised how little there was when I got there.
Congrats on the summit. I am furious at that bear now, as I feel we would have easily made it with our planned 230am start from the lake.
I don’t think you are a prick at all, but that is coming from someone not well liked by this membership. Your advice and admonishments are very useful info for those of us without much experience, and that kind of thing is about the most important service this site provides, advice from a highly experienced, and generous group. Thanks. And, I liked your blog.
To The_Flex - Good report, nice photos. Thanks.
Flex: Congrats on the summit! Way to grind through a long day and, it appears, doing so solo. Takes some guts to do that.
Doggler: I am among those that still have Little Bear ahead of me and have thought long and hard about the safest way to tackle it. I really appreciate your detailed break down of climbing LB in winter/snow conditions. I am printing this for future reference. With three young kids at home, my primary goal on any trip is to make it back down safely. Guidance like yours makes a real difference. THANK YOU!!
I think people have a lack of data out there on what to expect when it’s not summer and the conditions are not perfect. Many things you can plan on, and chose to take certain risks (too much water or too little, what time to start, how much weight to carry, should I turn around, clothing options, do I like the weather). You put yourself into danger just by being in the mountains, but you do it for some reason anyway. You need to weigh the additional risks with having fun in your life; that’s for you to deal with. (I’m not going to camp at Lake Como any time soon because of the bear, but I won’t stop others from trying.)
It’s easier to weigh your risks when you have good pictures to work with, instead of a lack of data. I expect the snow to be ‘as good’ until around mid–June.
I always expect the tops of the mountains to freeze overnight. I plan on strong winds. I should have started at 2 instead of 4 since it is easy to get to the lake.
Here was my timeline:
4am - started walking
7:30 - reached Lake Como
8:30 - Got through the woods and started climbing the gully
9:52 - got to the top of the ridge
11:47 - got to the bottom of the hourglass
12:39 - got to the top of LB
12:48 - left the top
1:27 - reached the bottom of the hourglass
3:28 - reached the top of the gully
4:00 - reached the bottom of the gully
7:30 - arrived at camp site
I noted that the snow had a sticky feel to it, (slushy may be the wrong word) but it varies by elevation, sunlight, and air temp. I would never bring a thermometer. My phone has all the aps I need to not get lost, and they are all for free. (I also didn’t bring a helmet!!!, but I did bring a knife for the bear)
I choose between an ice axe, pole or both, and I choose correctly. If not, I would have turned around. A pole is great for saving your knees. I used the pole as a pole (for balance, as a walking stick, and for applying force strait down the pole). An ice axe is good for ‘self–arresting’, so I didn’t put myself into a position needing it.
I’ve turned around on many mountains for many reasons. You need to determine for yourself if the risk is worth it.
Dude, no one plans on needing to self arrest, but its more than prudent, it’s a necessary piece of equipment. Starting from the lake at 7:30 am is probably the craziest thing I’ve read so far. The guys the night before were planning on leaving the lake at 2 am! Also, seriously?! "I always expect the tops of the mountains to freeze overnight." Really? You do understand the hourglass faces like the worst aspect for these kinds of climbs? Statements like these make me think you are just trying to piss people off.
Far better and more experienced climbers than you have made far fewer mistakes and died all the same. I’m pretty sure none of them were planning to fall, either.
Don’t mistake your safe passage for good decision making.
Steep spring snow climbs like this are tons of fun, and you clearly had a blast, but please listen to the cautions posted here. I thought doggler’s comments were a very sufficient response to the TR, but then your comment revealed your relative lack of interest in the excellent advice he provided. Personally, I’ve found a thermometer to be very useful when on snow climbs. An axe is meant to do more than self–arrest. I really don’t understand your emphasis on what you didn’t bring (axe, helmet, etc.) in your comment.
I’ve had to self–arrest on steep snow and no, I didn’t plan on it, as the previous posters are emphasizing. You definitely got lucky (we all have at some point or another), but ameristrat is right – you’re contending with powerful forces, so treat them with respect. It only takes one mistake gone wrong.
First off, sweet avatar. Second, glad you made it up and down safe and sound, thanks for sharing your trip report.
Lastly, I’ll agree with Ameristat – "Don’t mistake your safe passage for good decision making." Stack the odds in your favor: start early, wear a helmet and bring an ice axe....heck, maybe even bring a partner.
Great report! Like any sport there are risk and not everyone is going to agree the risk others take. You made it and I’m sure the experience was worth it.
Glad you made it. Doggler gives excellent advice here and I hope you will consider it. I wasn’t planning on falling yesterday on the Longs Peak north face route but snagged my pant leg with my crampon after turning around to look back down and was sliding down helmet first in an instant. It was over in 5 seconds thanks to my ice ax and practice. Really a non–event it happened so quickly and naturally.
That is like saying I will ride my motorcycle without my helmet or drive my car without my seatbelt because I have decided against crashing this time. Are there times when you plan to fall? Doggler is providing some great advice; don’t let your ego prevent you from learning.
"My phone has all the aps I need to not get lost, and they are all for free."
"I also didn’t bring a helmet!!!"
Thank you for the chuckle! It has been awhile since I’ve ever heard such drivel with that much enthusiasm!
For more humor read some more quotes taken out of context.
"I used the pole as a pole".... PLUS "applying force strait down the pole" EQUALS "that....had a sticky feel to it, (slushy may be the wrong word)"
This has to be a troll post, it’s just too rich... I mean the title, "Safer climb?" I haven’t seen a more unsafe TR of this ascent to date.
You realize you can bring poles AND axe up with you? It’s not a choice of one or the other. For steep climbs like that, if you have a long axe, it works just as well as a pole for hauling yourself up, in fact even better cause you can sink it deep into the snow for a bomber hold.
And lol..... Not planning on having to self arrest. Because you’ve never tripped or lost your balance ever in your life. Shall we go over the extensive list of experienced mountaineers who have died on fairly easy terrain because they tried to self arrest with a pole?
I like how you discuss risk management and unavoidable risks that have to be dealt with but then exuberantly state your lack of helmet in a steep gulley climb during a period of melting snow, when rocks are easily dislodged from high above due to frost-wedging and ice melt. When I was climbing the col up to Sneffels in similar conditions I had to quickly move out of the way of a basketball sized rock moving at 40mph down the slope, one of many rocks that day that came tumbling in my direction. The threat is very real.
As I read this again, I realize we’ve probably been trolled. I find it hard to believe someone would have such a cavalier attitude about lack of safety. The truth is nobody here wants to see others get hurt in the mountains, so we’re posting so that others will avoid unnecessary risks. Of course what we do has risks, and these risks are greater than what some people would find acceptable, but I personally draw the line at taking unnecessary and excessive risks. But if somebody reads this and doesn’t change their ways, then they are a fitting entry for the Darwin Awards.
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