Crestone Needle Trip Report 07/30/2015

Peak(s):	Crestone Needle - 14,196 feet
Date Posted:	07/30/2015
Date Climbed:	07/24/2015
Author:	4HClimber

Sometimes It's OK to Quit
Sometimes It's OK to Quit AND Live to Climb another Day On July 24, my trusty son-in-law Shawn Judge and I set out for the summit of Crestone Needle leaving the trailhead at 4:00 a.m. My fifth attempt for the Needle and his first. First look The first major obstacle was Broken Hand Pass and the snow field that was still in place. I had crampons and ice axe so it was not too bad. For those without such equipment it was a much more sketchy obstacle. Let's head up Broken Hand Pass Following a couple of guys up Broken Hand Pass Let's get going up the East Gully. Not my best side---or maybe it is. Halfway up the East Gully and at about 9:30 or 10 (not sure on the time because my ten fingers and ten toes were busy trying to hold on to the earth), as we approached the crux of the climb to cross over from the East Gully to the West Gully, I got the feeling that I needed to call this thing. As Shawn and I sat on a narrow ledge assessing our situation I said to him, "You wouldn't call me a pansy (other words might have been used) if I said we need to turn around right now. His answer was --No he would not call me any names. It was one of those "Help Mr. Wizard, get me outta here!" moments that is telling you to turn around. When that happens you need to listen. Close up of the 6 people we met on the way down as they were going up. This is the area (500-600 feet up the gully) where we Back at the bottom of the East Gully we saw two things. First we saw the people we passed on the way down trying to negotiate the cross-over to the West Gully. A move that should have taken 5 minutes took them more than 30 minutes. We held our breath as we saw two of them walk across the patch of snow with no hands. Second, we saw the helicopter come up to Cottonwood Lake to assist the climbing party in the Red Gully of Crestone Peak as one of their party had experienced a fatal fall that same morning. Both of these sights confirmed our decision to turn around. For those not familiar with the route, we turned around about halfway up the South Face, where you cross over to the West Gul We made it back to the trailhead 10 hours after leaving it. Shawn and I agreed that we might have out-climbed our ability, and training on this day. This fact, plus a few strategically placed patches of snow made this the right call. You also need to know that I have instructions from my spouse when I climb with my son-in-law. Those instructions are if I don't make it back home with the son-in-law in tow, just keep on driving. I never want to show up empty handed, as I'm sure Shawn would not want to either. You know-- I've got 43 CO 14er's under my belt and between being a little uneasy with the high degree of pucker factor of many of the peaks left on the list, and my knees not liking to tolerate the down-climb like they used to, I have decided to climb my last 14er in the summer of 2016---and you are all welcome---there will be a party at the top of my finisher. Burgers, and hot dogs and maybe some barley pop at the top. For you see, my finisher (number 44) will be a climb up Mt Evans. And after the party on top, I will ride down on 4 wheels. The calendar does not permit my finisher this summer. I will let everyone know the date for my finisher in 2016. Everyone is welcome---the more the merrier. Moral of the story is: When it's not right, turn around and live to climb another day. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Sometimes It's OK to Quit

Sometimes It's OK to Quit AND Live to Climb another Day

On July 24, my trusty son-in-law Shawn Judge and I set out for the summit of Crestone Needle leaving the trailhead at 4:00 a.m. My fifth attempt for the Needle and his first.

The first major obstacle was Broken Hand Pass and the snow field that was still in place. I had crampons and ice axe so it was not too bad. For those without such equipment it was a much more sketchy obstacle.

Following a couple of guys up Broken Hand Pass

Let's get going up the East Gully. Not my best side---or maybe it is.

Halfway up the East Gully and at about 9:30 or 10 (not sure on the time because my ten fingers and ten toes were busy trying to hold on to the earth), as we approached the crux of the climb to cross over from the East Gully to the West Gully, I got the feeling that I needed to call this thing. As Shawn and I sat on a narrow ledge assessing our situation I said to him, "You wouldn't call me a pansy (other words might have been used) if I said we need to turn around right now. His answer was --No he would not call me any names.

It was one of those "Help Mr. Wizard, get me outta here!" moments that is telling you to turn around. When that happens you need to listen.

Close up of the 6 people we met on the way down as they were going up. This is the area (500-600 feet up the gully) where we

Back at the bottom of the East Gully we saw two things. First we saw the people we passed on the way down trying to negotiate the cross-over to the West Gully. A move that should have taken 5 minutes took them more than 30 minutes. We held our breath as we saw two of them walk across the patch of snow with no hands. Second, we saw the helicopter come up to Cottonwood Lake to assist the climbing party in the Red Gully of Crestone Peak as one of their party had experienced a fatal fall that same morning. Both of these sights confirmed our decision to turn around.

For those not familiar with the route, we turned around about halfway up the South Face, where you cross over to the West Gul

We made it back to the trailhead 10 hours after leaving it. Shawn and I agreed that we might have out-climbed our ability, and training on this day. This fact, plus a few strategically placed patches of snow made this the right call. You also need to know that I have instructions from my spouse when I climb with my son-in-law. Those instructions are if I don't make it back home with the son-in-law in tow, just keep on driving. I never want to show up empty handed, as I'm sure Shawn would not want to either.

You know-- I've got 43 CO 14er's under my belt and between being a little uneasy with the high degree of pucker factor of many of the peaks left on the list, and my knees not liking to tolerate the down-climb like they used to, I have decided to climb my last 14er in the summer of 2016---and you are all welcome---there will be a party at the top of my finisher. Burgers, and hot dogs and maybe some barley pop at the top. For you see, my finisher (number 44) will be a climb up Mt Evans. And after the party on top, I will ride down on 4 wheels. The calendar does not permit my finisher this summer. I will let everyone know the date for my finisher in 2016. Everyone is welcome---the more the merrier.

Moral of the story is: When it's not right, turn around and live to climb another day.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Johnson	finisher 7/30/2015 1:36pm Jeff, I would love to join you on your personal finisher in ’16.
Jay521	Me, too 7/30/2015 1:43pm ^^ what he said.
mtgirl	Me, too 7/30/2015 3:07pm ^^ what they said.
wondering_hough	wow 7/30/2015 6:28pm Strong trip report, thank you for posting. I’ve learned to never second guess turning around, that sinking feeling in your gut is there for a reason. Listen to it, come back another day.
CHWitte	Thanks for posting! 7/31/2015 7:29am Good decision. Nobody can tell you otherwise because they weren’t there and they aren’t you! There is always another day. I’m glad you posted this as others sometimes need the encouragement to know that it’s ok. The 14er community will not call you a pansy either!
Wish I lived in CO	No problemo 7/31/2015 7:59am Jeff, good to hear from you! As always, your sense of humor gives me a smile. The scenery out there as you know is spectacular, worth it to go just for that. Would love to join you in the thin air for your finisher and a few wheat juices.
sunny1	Funny and wise 7/31/2015 10:37am Your TR’s are always a treat. I also enjoy your humor. Glad you’re tuned into your 6th sense. Have had that experience myself – it can be frustrating when you’ve made a big expenditure of time, money, etc., but you gotta pay attention to that 6th sense. I’ll keep my eyes open next summer for your finisher date, I may invite myself along! Climb on!
Kitten	Right thing to do 7/31/2015 11:33am Great read and right decision. Several years ago when we attempted the Needle we had the same call, turned back at the same point. We went back two years later and tackle it in better conditions. When things are not right it is just not worth it. There are other mountains out there
joecool	Good call 9/8/2015 10:31am Makes a lot of sense to me. I’ve only got 13 under my belt but at 51–nearly–52 I’m thinking I’m not going to make them all, especially the harder ones. At some point I’m sure I’ll be making the same call, probably in the not–too–distant future. Good to know your limits. Bagging 43 is pretty damn good. Love to join you on the top of Evans for your celebration! :–)
joecool	Good call 9/8/2015 10:33am ... and i have no idea how i submitted that twice!

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