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Aconcagua 6962m
Normal Route - 2016
Partner: Cbrobin
55 miles, 22k feet of gain
Met Cbrobin in Mendoza's airport. We found a luxiourous 1 star shoe box and began the process of obtaining permits. First we went to the tourism office and were told we must first go to our outfitter's office. (Yes, they extort you, you must at least use a mule.) We signed some paperwork stating we will not sue in the event of death, etc.., filled out some online profile, and coordinated dates. The outfitter presents you with a voucher and you take this to Pago Facil to pay for the permit. It is right next to the tourism office. They accept dollars. We paid the outrageous fee then went back and retrieved our permits. This process took around 2 hours. We toured around town, with me drooling at every woman that walked past, talked with other climbers and ate some lunch with 2 Japanese climbers and 1 Frenchman. Later in the evening we had a delicious, and incredibly cheap, dinner in town.
We were up at the crack of 9:00 am, and on our 4 hour long bus ride at 10:15. Filled with excitement, we gabbed like school girls the entire ride, surely annoying the other passengers. The bus dropped us off in the desert at a ski area. We briefly stumbled about until we found a human and got our bags situated for the mules. The hockey bag I used was ideal. The mules don't depart until the following day, so we carried the tent, food, and sleeping equipment for the overnight in Confluencia. We scheduled the mules to porter directly to Plaza de Mulas. We were shuttled to the park entrance. The rangers sign the permits and issue a white trash bag. As implied, this bag is for trash.
Filled with optimism and excitement, we took our first steps towards Aconcagua!
Brobin leads the way:
This creek experienced a large mudslide shortly after we left the park:
Here's the video of it:
2.5 hours later we made it to Confluencia:
Sadly, this was the last place we saw our friends from town...
Frenchman, Brobin, Japanese, MrWaffles
We enjoyed conversation and stargazing well until midnight. The next morning we woke up and discovered we were required to visit the doctor. After waiting in line, we were giving the todo bien, and the medic signed the permits. If you ascend up with out the doc's ok, you are responsible for rescue fees. Confluencia is only 11k feet or so, but there were some people having problems. As we were eating breakfast at 9:53 am, we were told we must begin hiking by 10:00. Rules,
We began the long slog to Plaza de Mulas, basecamp. For me, the physical difficulty of this day compared closely to summit day.
We trekked along in the wind tunnel, eating plenty of sand from the dust devils:
Nice rest area:
8 hrs later I felt as if we were getting close:
Yes! After 11 or so miles, we reached basecamp:
We checked in with the rangers and located our mule bags. Here they issue you a numbered orange bag. This bag is for human waste.
2 tents were pitched and we enjoyed some freeze dried dinners under the alpen glow:
The next day, New Year's Eve, we lounged around camp, I went off and swung the axes up some couloir, and we visited the doctor, again hearing another todo bien.
Brobin, chico, Mrwaffles, chica:
Songs were sung:
AndyJB from Golden was operating on essentially the same schedule as us.
For the new year, I partied with the Argentinians. They were throwing fuel canisters into a bonfire and we were dancing around screaming. After an hour's worth of debauchery, I hit the sack.
1st day of 2016, we began hauling equipment up to Canada. Simple 2-3 hour hike up. It felt good to be ascending. The next day we carried the rest of the equipment and rested the following day.
Base camp appears small:
Cuerno appears fantastic:
This hombre agrees:
Resting:
We began our trek up to Berlin, however, the weather was terrible and consisted of strong winds with blowing snow, a tormenta. At Nido, I waited for Brobin and Andy. Brobin wanted to stop at Nido, I didn't. The altitude must have affected my judgment, or I'm just an asshole, so I continued up to Berlin. After about 30mins, I realized it wasn't the altitude and I was in fact being an ass, and quickly turned back to find my partner. We heard weather reports from other hikers: poor weather next 3 days. We decided to head down to base camp rather than weather the storm at Canada or Nido.
Down we went:
To a snowy basecamp:
Now I made the mistake of walking into the restaurant, where they sell cigarettes. Packs cost $30. I bought 6. The tent was left upright, and the wind snapped the pole. I jerry rigged it back together and stuffed a t shirt and some duct tape over the hole in the rain fly. The next two days, it snowed, the wind blew, then it snowed and blew some more. It was a rather miserable time. I spent the time reading while Chris, disliking my odor apparently, spent his days in the restaurant and art gallery. We finally heard the 9th was going to be a clear day, but windy. That was the only weather opening until the 13th. After 2 grueling days of restless cabin fever, the 9th was chosen as summit day.
We motored on up to Nido de Condores in the storm:
There are guards and rescue patrol at Nido:
The Mountain Hardwear EV2 tent has what they call an, internal vestibule. The internal vestibule is the worst design imaginable. Cooking and melting snow is incredibly difficult. Even with the vents open, you will encounter condensation.
After weathering the tormenta throughout the night, the next morning we headed up to Berlin:
Chris and I were wrecked. Both of us said to eachother, "Wow, I have never climbed slower in my life". I forget how many hours it took to climb 1200 feet, 5? Maybe 6? Howling wind, blowing snow, nut deep snow drifts, it was miserable. However, we were rewarded with beautiful sunsets before bed.
The first summit attempt found us beginning our day at 4:00. By 5:15 we were hiking up towards Colera. We made decent time and both felt significantly better than the prior day's fiasco. Sunrise was gorgeous:
The closest we were gonna get to seeing the top:
The day was cold and windy, but clear. There was a lenticular hovering above. We reached an old hut known as Independencia, and climbed a small snow slope to a saddle. As soon as I poked my head over the ridge, I was blown backwards. 60-70mph wind, steady. I am underestimating here. Time to turn around. Oh well I couldn't feel my feet anyway We spent the night in camp Berlin, then descended to Nido for a day of rest. This is when I started to have doubts. We were running out of food. It can be stressful at times with 2 people in a small coffin in sub zero temps at 18k feet. Morale was low.
Jan 12th we were back at it. Moved up to Berlin and ate practically nothing. The 13th, we headed for the summit.
Deja vu:
This time at the "ridge", I poked my head up and was blown around. The wind was very strong, but less than that of the 9th. There is a video at end of report. My toes were numb, but I could feel them, so off I went. I raced as fast as I could, or maybe crawled, to a rock known as "el dedo", the finger. Here I was given a welcomed reprieve from the wind and warmed up. Then I continued along la traversia to the right side of a gully. I saw the snow here from the ridge and figured the wind would be drastically less. I was correct. Up I climbed.
So I climbed and climbed for hours. Near the top, it was 5 breaths 1 step, repeat. Sometimes even 10 breaths. I was fatigued. The last 100 feet easily took 45 mins to an hour. I was cold, and regrettably did not stop for photos.
7 hrs into the trek, I reached El Cumbre!
I want this:
and this (South Aconcagua):
I had the summit to myself, which was nice, but I was forced to take a selfie. I am very angry at this photo. Please don't post this on TGR. Gaperific!
I spent no more than 10 minutes on the summit then descended. Met up with Cbrobin, offered some water, gave him my hybrid axe, and wished congratulations. I hightailed it back to Camp Berlin. Dreaming, longing, craving for cigarettes and food and soda. Rude awakening when I realized these glorious luxuries would be yet another day away. Luckily, a Russian 7 Summits guide was camped nearby and he gave me his pipe. At least my nicotine craving was fixed. I lounged around, made some water, spoke with our Italian friends. At 8:30pm, I went out in search for Chris. I found him about 1000' up guiding an Asian woman down. I gave them some water and took the packs. We deposited the Asian at her tent in Colera and headed to Berlin.
Neither of us slept well. Chris was very dehydrated and I don't believe he slept a wink. We were happy to descend the following morning. Back in base camp, we devoured pizzas, lounged with my friend Vladymir and listened to stories about the Himalaya. I was not looking forward to leaving the mountains, at all. We drank lots and lots of water and fell asleep early. Following morning we packed the mule bags, our bags, and said farewell to our friends. The 16 mi hike out was warm and pleasant.
Incredibly dirty, incredibly happy:
As I reached the TH, I was overcome with anxiety. What do I do now? Where do I go? Simultaneously, I was rewarded with the satisfaction of accomplishment.
Thank you for reading.
On our way in, we met a group from Seattle. They said the wind wasn't bad on Aconcagua.
Thoughts/Ideas:
We used Aconcagua Trek for the mules. I liked the company. They seem to have the nicest location in base camp as well.
Key to reaching the top, is making it across the traversia. Most people turn around here. If it's windy, run to el dedo and warm up. Then rush to the far side of the gully.
Patience is indeed a virtue.
Bring some repair tape. The kind you can use to patch jackets, tent walls, etc..
Berlin is a nice place to camp.
Next time I would chose a partner of smaller stature, lol. No, I should have brought a 3 person tent. A 2p is just too small for 2 men over 6ft tall.
It is cold. Very cold. The summit is definitely not worth losing any digits.
We used isopropane/butane exclusively. We burned through at least 1 8oz container per day in high camps.
Our pulsox was useful.
We made up a Google Docs sheet with our plan, gear list, elevation tables, temp tables, route descriptions, etc.. It may be of some use if you are planning a trip. Google Doc Here
This brings back memories of 2003 for me. Some friends and I tried to do Aconcagua then, but spent three days at 20,000' waiting for the winds to die. They never did and thus we didn't summit. I remember being wowed by two things: how cute the ladies were in Mendoza and how cool and varied the geology is on the approach up to base camp. Congrats.
Awesome job, guys! Glad to hear you gave it another go, and were successful! Let me know if you want to get out and ski the next time you find yourself in CO.
I felt like I was really f*cking there! Great trip report, will use it for information for sure. I'm lad I quit smoking cigarettes, certainly makes it more fun.
Gotta love that view of South Acon, eh?! So beautiful! Way to go with your perseverance to nab it. Pics brought back lots of memories! Especially the hike out thru the valley carrying my damn heavy pack. In particular I remember sitting down at the rock, with not a soul in sight, in the middle of the desert, and not wanting to get up ever again!
Yes I had softshell pants and down pants. 1 pair of socks. I believe my new boots are too small and constrict the bloodflow. I've never had cold feet before, ever, but all my climbing has been done in ski boots.
I still wake up at night screaming. THE WIND!!! THE WIND!!!!!
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The tent was left upright, and the wind snapped the pole. I jerry rigged it back together and stuffed a t shirt and some duct tape over the hole in the rain fly. The next two days, it snowed, the wind blew, then it snowed and blew some more. It was a rather miserable time. I spent the time reading while Chris, disliking my odor apparently, spent his days in the restaurant and art gallery. We finally heard the 9th was going to be a clear day, but windy. That was the only weather opening until the 13th. After 2 grueling days of restless cabin fever, the 9th was chosen as summit day.
We spent the night in camp Berlin, then descended to Nido for a day of rest. This is when I started to have doubts. We were running out of food. It can be stressful at times with 2 people in a small coffin in sub zero temps at 18k feet. Morale was low. 
