Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
2016.04.24
Luttrell Line (Northwest Couloir)
~6,600' Vertical
~11.5 Miles
~12 Hours RT
Is there something I'm missing?
I'm sure people have noticed this before, but the last 3 of the 4 El D trip reports are solo. Well I felt left out, so here goes.
I head over to Telluride on Friday with my sights set on skiing the Coors Face on Wilson. When my alarm goes off the next morning however, winds are howling and I decide to call it off. When daylight comes, I see some menacing clouds blowing over Wilson Peak. I think I made the right call. So I go ahead and spend the day in Telluride sipping coffee and flirting with the baristas.
On the way back, I take a close look at the Coors Face. It didn't quite look in, so I decide to take a shot at El Diente instead. I'm able to drive up to about 9700' on the road before the first big drifts. I hunker down for the night and am up and moving by a little after 3 AM. I waste some time on the final skin to the Rock of Ages saddle when I fail to get enough elevation before the scree ribs and am forced to boot the rest of the way. Nevertheless, I make it in time to see the first rays of light hit the Wilson-ElD ridge.
I spend a bit of time here basking in the views before clicking into my skis and dropping 1000' into the basin.
At the base of the climb, I stash my skins and don crampons, and start the trudge to the top. The first thousand feet or so go relatively quickly on nice booter snow. What I'd read about the couloir is pretty accurate. As you climb it, it simply doesn't look like it'll go. At ~13,000', it appears as if you'll be hitting a wall soon. At ~13,600', the lower chute presents itself.
Climb this chute for about another ~300' and you pop out at the Fox Face and the most dramatic section of the route. After being surrounded by the couloir's walls the entirety of the climb, the exposure was a welcome change. I take the time to chop out a small ledge on the wind lip in preparation for the descent. The last thousand feet in knee deep snow had taken me twice as long as the first thousand up the couloir and at this point, my pace is glacial. Still, the recent winds had kept the more east facing Fox relatively cool despite the later-than-expected arrival. Traverse the Fox and climb the steep upper chute for ~200' to the summit.
And just like that, I'm on top at just a little before 11 AM. Windless and partly cloudy, it was another gorgeous day. Comfortable with the snow conditions on the Fox, and knowing the lower sections might need more time to soften up, I sit on the summit for about half an hour before making my way down. Conditions on the descent are great, save for the lower exit chute which was actually pretty firm despite the breakable crust on the ascent. The chute above the Fox was about as good as I could ask for. A bit of side stepping down through a shallow section about 172 cm (length of my skis) wide, but otherwise the jump turns are easy and soft. Anyways, I'll let the pictures tell the story from here.
Once I'm down in the basin, I take a nice long break in the sun. Felt like a beach down there, really. But before too long I start leisurely plodding on upwards back to the RoA saddle. I take one parting shot before clicking back in and making the final descent back to the car.
Between tired legs and a bit of dust that the recent winds had blown in, I biff it completely somewhere down in the basin. Ah, yes. It wouldn't be ski mountaineering without such a graceful exit. I just did some of the steepest, most consequential skiing I've ever done and I just totally eat it on what would be a green run in a ski area. Yep. What a great way to end the day.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Way to get that in in what seems like less than ideal conditions. Snowpack looks pretty low and boney down there. Ski mountaineers are generally rude and offensive people; hence, you will see many solo TRs.
Very nice mountaineering accomplishment. Looks like absolute prime conditions with the effort. Thanks for putting together the trip report and posting. Well-written journey dialogue. Great pics as well. The Chute and view from ROA saddle photos are classics. Love the skiing action shots too!
Well if there's a line to solo, it's this one, given his approach to the project. Strong work, you're hitting some classics this season. Let's hope the season keeps delivering.
Schralp - Conditions were pretty good overall. Not perfect, but above average I'd say. That bit about ski mountaineers explains a lot
lodgling - More snow this week! Gonna try to get on something fun again soon
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.