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Route: Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) Dates: Jul. 19-20, 2016 Day 1: Approach to Hörnli Hut (Hörnlihütte) and scrambling up the lower ridge to the Second Couloir Day 2: Summit climb and descent back to Zermatt Grade: AD, up to IUAA III (YDS 5.4), if using fixed ropes; ~45 degree snow/ice Route Length: ~1,700m with 1,200m vertical gain from Hörnli Hut to the Matterhorn summit Climbers: strudolyubov (solo)
Approach to the Hörnli Hut (Hörnlihütte) (July 19, 2016)
Most climbers make it as an overnight trip, staying at the Hörnli Hut (Hörnlihütte). You need to reserve your place at the hut in advance. As of July 2016, a cost of stay there was 150 CHF, including dinner and breakfast. When arriving to Zermatt, climbers have two options getting to the hut:
1. Taking a lift to Schwarzsee (32.00 CHF single ride per person as of July 2016) and ascending a trail to the hut (~700m/2,300ft of ascent)
2. Hiking to the hut directly from Zermatt (~1,600m/5,200ft of ascent)
After the initial headwall, the lower ridge is mostly a scramble/walk on a broken and often loose rock with sometimes tricky route finding. If you planning a pre-dawn start, it helps to familiarize yourself with the lower section of the route in the daylight prior to summit climb.
Matterhorn summit climb via the Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) (July 20, 2016)
The steep rock section above the Upper Red Tower is equipped with fixed ropes and metal chains. The ropes and rock are often wet or icy. This is the most demanding rock climbing section of the route. The rock section with fixed ropes is followed by fairly steep snow and ice slope, the Dach (~45 degrees) with some rocky steps (see image below). This section is also equipped with metal pegs for belaying/rappels.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
On the lower part of the route around the couloirs there is some rubble and loose rock, especially if you stray away from the main line. The middle and upper sections of the ridge proper are pretty solid, but when you get to snow/ice sections, there is some loose rock that melted out here and there. The rockfall from the parties above can be a problem pretty much anywhere.
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