Longs Peak Trip Report 08/16/2007

Peak(s):	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet
Date Posted:	08/16/2007
Date Climbed:	08/15/2007
Author:	mountainlover

Lucky #13- Longs Peak Keyhole Route
Longs Peak, the monarch of the Front Range, had intrigued me ever since becoming accustomed with its famed Keyhole Route on this very website. After attempting a couple of class 3 routes back East this summer and joining a rock climbing gym, I knew that I wanted climb Longs during my time at home. I felt prepared, motivated, and eager to try my hand at the famous Keyhole route. Longs Peak would be my 13th 14er, yet I was apprehensive as to whether or not it would be a lucky #13. The weather forecast was not optimal (40% chance of rain in the afternoon), but I was still optimistic that we could get up and down before the weather hit. After driving to Estes Park the evening before, my dad and I arose at 3:45AM, filled our water bottles, and drove out to the Longs Peak trailhead. During the drive, a light rain sprinkled the car, which filled me with unease. How could it be raining at four in the morning? I fully anticipated afternoon showers, but rain at four in the morning didn't bode well for our planned ascent. After finding a space in the crowded lot, we strapped on our headlamps, and began our ascent around 4:45AM. While the sprinkles soon subsided, I remained mildly apprehensive about the weather situation. With a very gradual incline and minimal obstacles, the East Longs Peak trail granted us a nice, smooth hike in the dark. As the sun rose, we reached the trail junction to Chasm lake, lighting up the spectacular North face of Longs. I must note that the privy located at this junction is one of the coolest I've ever seen. It hangs right off the edge of the mountain, offering great views for those (like myself) who enjoy fabulous vistas while taking care of business. After our quick break, we hiked the rest of the way up to the Boulderfield. At this point, the sky was slightly overcast but didn't appear particularly ominous. However, during our traverse of the Boulderfield, it began to sprinkle again only to stop by the time we reached the top of the Keyhole around 9AM. Below the Keyhole from the Boulderfield We continued across the Ledges, taking our time as the rocks were slightly wet. We were fortunate enough to have the sun emerge during this period, and speed up the rock drying process. After finishing with the Ledges, we found ourselves in the Trough, a large steep gully filled with loose rock and large boulders. This part of the climb was easily my least favorite- it was long, hard, and physically exhausting. Every step upwards felt arduous, so I silently began chanting my manta: "Don't think, just climb". With that in mind, I plowed onward and upward, eventually reaching the chockstone at the top. After some tricky negotiating, we found ourselves on top of the chockstone, and eager to cross the Narrows. They came as a welcome relief from the physical beating that the Trough provided. As we began, I noticed that the rock was almost completely dry, which boded well for the remaining ascent up the Homestretch. The crossing of the Narrows was just plain fun, and the exposure wasn't too horrible. In fact, I kind of enjoyed knowing that huge dropoffs were only a foot away. Toward the end of the Narrows Once over the Narrows, we looked up the infamous Homestretch, which I had seen many many times in pictures from trip reports. While the Homestretch was steep,it wasn't as steep as pictures indicate, and both handholds and footholds were plentiful. This looks so much worse than it actually was. With a max angle of 45 degrees or so, the Homestretch wasn't too difficult to climb. After scrambling up the final pitch, we finally reached the top of Longs, which I might add has one of the largest, flattest summits I've ever seen. Anyways, after our arrival at 10:50AM, we spent only 10 minutes on top as the clouds were beginning to build. My dad and me on top of Longs Looking out over Longs' large, flat summit The descent from the Homestretch was an interesting endeavor due to its steepness. My dad chose the grip and step method of descent while I opted for the far more aesthetically-interesting (and ridiculous) method of crab-walking and butt sliding. Both ways worked well, in my opinion. After returning over the Narrows, we found ourselves in the stinkin' Trough where it began to sprinkle again. This made the descent both mentally and physically taxing...at this point, I just wanted to get off the Trough. My wish was eventually granted after what seemed like an endless descent down steep rock. The Ledges traverse went slowly as the rock was now very wet, but we made it back to the Keyhole without too many troubles. Scrambling down from the Keyhole was a slow process due to the slick rock (my dad actually took a tumble, but was resilient in spite of it), but we took our time and arrived back at the Boulderfield, where we were greeted by a bunch of llamas. We soon regained the Longs Peak trail, which provided some relief for our weary legs after the descent from the summit to keyhole. The remainder of the hike back down to the trailhead went smoothly, but felt extremely long. Those last two miles, in particular, were brutal...my feet and were in a state of rebellion. During the last half mile, the building skies finally opened up, and boy did they let loose! By our return to our car at 4:00, my dad and I were both sopping wet. I guess the final downpour was Longs' farewell present to us both. Either way, I was glad to have made it down safe and sound in spite of the precarious weather. With a round trip time of 11 hours and 15 minutes, I felt exhausted but extremely satisfied with our day of hiking. That mountain was a beast, and it kicked my ass both up and down...but what an experience it was. I give my full respect to Longs Peak, and hope to hike it again (although not anytime remotely soon). Longs Peak really was lucky #13. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Lucky #13- Longs Peak Keyhole Route

Longs Peak, the monarch of the Front Range, had intrigued me ever since becoming accustomed with its famed Keyhole Route on this very website. After attempting a couple of class 3 routes back East this summer and joining a rock climbing gym, I knew that I wanted climb Longs during my time at home. I felt prepared, motivated, and eager to try my hand at the famous Keyhole route. Longs Peak would be my 13th 14er, yet I was apprehensive as to whether or not it would be a lucky #13. The weather forecast was not optimal (40% chance of rain in the afternoon), but I was still optimistic that we could get up and down before the weather hit.

After driving to Estes Park the evening before, my dad and I arose at 3:45AM, filled our water bottles, and drove out to the Longs Peak trailhead. During the drive, a light rain sprinkled the car, which filled me with unease. How could it be raining at four in the morning? I fully anticipated afternoon showers, but rain at four in the morning didn't bode well for our planned ascent. After finding a space in the crowded lot, we strapped on our headlamps, and began our ascent around 4:45AM. While the sprinkles soon subsided, I remained mildly apprehensive about the weather situation. With a very gradual incline and minimal obstacles, the East Longs Peak trail granted us a nice, smooth hike in the dark. As the sun rose, we reached the trail junction to Chasm lake, lighting up the spectacular North face of Longs. I must note that the privy located at this junction is one of the coolest I've ever seen. It hangs right off the edge of the mountain, offering great views for those (like myself) who enjoy fabulous vistas while taking care of business.

After our quick break, we hiked the rest of the way up to the Boulderfield. At this point, the sky was slightly overcast but didn't appear particularly ominous. However, during our traverse of the Boulderfield, it began to sprinkle again only to stop by the time we reached the top of the Keyhole around 9AM.

Below the Keyhole from the Boulderfield

We continued across the Ledges, taking our time as the rocks were slightly wet. We were fortunate enough to have the sun emerge during this period, and speed up the rock drying process. After finishing with the Ledges, we found ourselves in the Trough, a large steep gully filled with loose rock and large boulders. This part of the climb was easily my least favorite- it was long, hard, and physically exhausting. Every step upwards felt arduous, so I silently began chanting my manta: "Don't think, just climb". With that in mind, I plowed onward and upward, eventually reaching the chockstone at the top. After some tricky negotiating, we found ourselves on top of the chockstone, and eager to cross the Narrows. They came as a welcome relief from the physical beating that the Trough provided. As we began, I noticed that the rock was almost completely dry, which boded well for the remaining ascent up the Homestretch. The crossing of the Narrows was just plain fun, and the exposure wasn't too horrible. In fact, I kind of enjoyed knowing that huge dropoffs were only a foot away.

Toward the end of the Narrows

Once over the Narrows, we looked up the infamous Homestretch, which I had seen many many times in pictures from trip reports. While the Homestretch was steep,it wasn't as steep as pictures indicate, and both handholds and footholds were plentiful.

This looks so much worse than it actually was. With a max angle of 45 degrees or so, the Homestretch wasn't too difficult to climb.

After scrambling up the final pitch, we finally reached the top of Longs, which I might add has one of the largest, flattest summits I've ever seen.

Anyways, after our arrival at 10:50AM, we spent only 10 minutes on top as the clouds were beginning to build.

My dad and me on top of Longs

Looking out over Longs' large, flat summit

The descent from the Homestretch was an interesting endeavor due to its steepness. My dad chose the grip and step method of descent while I opted for the far more aesthetically-interesting (and ridiculous) method of crab-walking and butt sliding. Both ways worked well, in my opinion. After returning over the Narrows, we found ourselves in the stinkin' Trough where it began to sprinkle again. This made the descent both mentally and physically taxing...at this point, I just wanted to get off the Trough. My wish was eventually granted after what seemed like an endless descent down steep rock. The Ledges traverse went slowly as the rock was now very wet, but we made it back to the Keyhole without too many troubles. Scrambling down from the Keyhole was a slow process due to the slick rock (my dad actually took a tumble, but was resilient in spite of it), but we took our time and arrived back at the Boulderfield, where we were greeted by a bunch of llamas.

We soon regained the Longs Peak trail, which provided some relief for our weary legs after the descent from the summit to keyhole. The remainder of the hike back down to the trailhead went smoothly, but felt extremely long. Those last two miles, in particular, were brutal...my feet and were in a state of rebellion. During the last half mile, the building skies finally opened up, and boy did they let loose! By our return to our car at 4:00, my dad and I were both sopping wet. I guess the final downpour was Longs' farewell present to us both. Either way, I was glad to have made it down safe and sound in spite of the precarious weather. With a round trip time of 11 hours and 15 minutes, I felt exhausted but extremely satisfied with our day of hiking. That mountain was a beast, and it kicked my ass both up and down...but what an experience it was. I give my full respect to Longs Peak, and hope to hike it again (although not anytime remotely soon).

Longs Peak really was lucky #13.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

14ergirl	Great report 8/21/2007 8:30am Although I am very reluctant to start that late, you guys seem to get lucky and motored right up. Great job and great writing of the report!
Treinfir	Longs Keyhole 11/30/2010 5:28pm Excellent trip report and a great one to take with Dad! I recently enjoyed summitting Longs with my wife and oldest son, and will always remember the experience. I'm sure you will also. It sounds like you both had a great time!
timm19	Longs Keyhole 11/30/2010 5:28pm Congrats on your 13th. You climbed it exactly 2 years to the day that my daughter and I summited. It is a beautiful peak and it was a day I'll always remember as I'm sure you will.
sundog54	Longs Keyhole: Thanks 11/30/2010 5:28pm Thanks, that's a sweet trip report. Makes me want to muscle up for the 14 miles round trip sooner rather than later...
geezer	Longs Keyhole: 11/30/2010 5:28pm Great report. Longs is the only Front Range peak that I haven't made as yet. Your report makes me want to ”git 'er done”. There is definitely something special about climbing a beauty such as Long's with your dad. I've done a few some lesser peaks with my daughter and they have been highlights which we continue to look back on. Congratulations!
mtgirl	Great trip report ! 2/5/2011 12:22am I enjoyed reading your trip report. What a cool thing to share with your Dad - it's something you'll both always remember.

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