Wetterhorn Peak Trip Report 08/20/2007

Peak(s):	Wetterhorn Peak - 14,021 feet
Date Posted:	08/20/2007
Modified:	08/26/2007
Date Climbed:	08/05/2007
Author:	PKR

Wetterhorn Peak- Via East Ridge
Wetterhorn Peak 14,015ft. Date climbed: 8/05/07 Assent route: East Ridge Descent route: Southwest Gully Rim / Gully Miles: 7.8 Elevation gain: 3,280ft. + Before I get started I want to thank all of those who posted beta on this area before I left for my trip. I arrived at Matterhorn Creek Trailhead about 36 hours before my scheduled climb and set up a dry base camp in the trees just below the 4WD parking lot in what I believed to be the prime camping site (nice score). Once this was done I waked up into West Matterhore Creek via the Mattrehorn Cutoff Trail to do some recon on my descent route but found the entire area socked in, so I returned to camp and spent the evening relaxing reading and watching the rain. The next morning I got up ate, packed some food, water and rain gear in my day pack and headed out to do some recon on Wetterhorn's east ridge. After reading SarahT's trip report about a climb in the area I was a bit apprehensive about what I would find up there and was hoping I would not have to bail on the ridge climb idea. As the ridge between Wetterhorn and Matterhorn came into view it became clear to me that the east end of this ridge consisted of much more decomposed rock than the western end. I located what I believed to be the cone shaped tower Gerry Roach describes in his route description of the area and was pleased to find that the rock looked much more solid and consolidated west of this point. I took some photos and made a few mental notes about my approach and the location of the gully I wanted to use to gain the ridge the next day and headed out to do my recon on my descent route. As I was headed back down to the hill to pickup the Matterhorn Cutoff trail I notice that there were ATV tracks crisscrossing the trail and then heading out into the tundra. I was still well into the wilderness and above tree line and was once again suppressed and disappointed at the ignorance and stupidity of my fellow man. It pained me to know that I was sharing the San Juan's with people who had so little respect for a place so very special. I spent the next hour or so fantasizing about walking into the local ATVer camp and setting their noisy little machines ablaze, stringing piano wire between trees were it was clear they were eroding new roads in the forest floor, disposing of all my available sugar in their gas tanks and last but not least catching one of them above tree line in the wilderness, tackling them off their machine and pounding some sense into their thick heads. Don't get me wrong I would never seriously consider acting on such thoughts, it has been over twenty years since I have found a need to take a swing at someone I am generally a peace loving man, but seeing the ATV tracks crisscrossing the wilderness really got under my skin. It makes me happy to know that people have jobs and income from the manufacture, sales, rental and servicing of ATV's and I don't really see ATV's as the problem. It's the small minority of people who show no limits to where they are willing to take them that I see as the problem. Enough ranting for now.... By the time I got into the upper basin of the west fork of Matterhorn Creek things were once again socked in and I was still unclear about my descent route. I could clearly see the trail coming off the upper most basin but the clouds obscured every thing above that. It started to pour so I returned to camp and spent the rest of the day reading my book, watching the rain and visiting with fellow climbers as they streamed in. About 45 minuets before dark the quiet of the evening was broken. A small group of ATVers zoomed up the road past our campsites turned around at the trailhead and were zooming back down when I found myself in the middle of the road flipping them the bird ' ..!., ". It all happened so fast that it caught me by surprise (did I happen to mention that I can sometimes be rash). I could see some of my fellow campers, a couple, watching me from above perform my ridicules and childish display, it was clear that they felt the same as I did but had more tact than I did in that moment. Now I had embarrassed myself. As for the ATVers only one of them acknowledged my salute with a small nod as he zoomed away. Feeling as though I had just made a complete ass of myself I withdrew from the road and retreated to my camp. As I settled in for the night my head was occasionally occupied by thoughts like; "if it were me on the receiving end of my salute I would probably responded in some passive aggressive fashion just to piss me off", "there are probably better ways to educate people that being a rude prick" and "who the hell am I to assume that it is MY road they are zooming up in the first place". In the end I concluded that I was taking myself way too seriously and needed to find a more constructive way to vent my frustrations. I actually found myself chuckling at myself before I fell asleep. I awoke at 3:00am, it was time to pull my act together and try to beat the rain. I ate breakfast, packed for the day and hit the trail by 4:00 am. Most of the clouds had cleared and it was a crisp starry morning. As I moved up the trail past the first trail intersection I could hear some coyotes working the herd of sheep grazing in the upper basin of West Matterhorn Creek, later that day I would stumble across the remains of their breakfast. I continued to move up the tail past the intersection of the Ridge Stock and Wetterhorn Peak Trails. It was still dark when I came to the boulder field where I would be leaving the main trail. I found a comfortable boulder sit on, had a snack and waited for first light. At about 6:15am I began to find my way across the boulder field. Near the foot of the ridge the terrain changed form boulders to talus and finally to loose scree. It wasn't long until I was standing at about 12,880 ft. looking up at the gully I would be climbing up to gain the ridge. There was still not enough light to safely move on into the gully so I waited another 15 minutes. It took a few class 4 moves on slippery wet rock to get from the scree field up into the gully and from there it was an easy class 3 scramble on fairly solid rock up to a small notch in the ridge crest. I arriver at about 7:00am. From here I climbed across the broken face of a large slab of rock near the ridge crest. Once around this obstacle the climb before me came into view. Up to this point the climb had been easy and the route ahead was looking good. I continued my climb moving up and down in and around as needed. The condition of the rock was ever changing, some times it was solid and stable and at other times it would crumble under my feet. There was no predicting what the next turn would bring. Thus far I had been engaged in mostly a class 3 scramble with a few class 4 moves requiring most of my attention due to the ever-changing conditions of the rock. Nonetheless I was finding a nice rhythm and beginning to move in sync with the ridge and its dynamic nature. Route finding was a non-issue. Here is a photo looking back at the first 15 minutes of my ridge climb. Unfortunately the scale is lost in the surrounding landscape. Soon the angle of the ridge began to increase and I found myself having to combine more and more class 4 moves to continue my progress. At any point in time one can move down 10 to 50 feet to climbers left and keep the whole climb to a class 3 scramble, but what would be the point the best views were from the ridge top and my head was now 100% engaged in the climb in front of me. It was proving to be a good time on Wetterhorn's East Ridge. Twenty five more minutes of climbing and I was high enough to start to catch views of Coxcomb and Redcliff to the northwest. Just above where the last photo was taken the remainder of my ridge climb comes into view as well as Wetterhorn's dramatic northeast face. The photo below does it no justice. Wow what a sight! The closer I got to the end of this climb the more dramatic the views became and the more exhilarating the exposure. This ridge just kept getting better and better. In this steeper terrain my progress slowed a bit, I was now into mixed class 4 / occasional low class 5 moves to stay on or near the ridge crest. More than once I would grab what I thought was a nice solid jug only to have it pop off in my hand, smear points gave way under my feet occasionally as well. I made sure to test each hand and foot hold before I transitioned through the next move. Despite the fact that I was now having to wok for my gains I continued to safely move over the terrain enjoying myself. One of the questions I had in the planning stages of this climb was about thunderstorm bail out points, as I moved along the ridge I was pleased to find several suitable places down to climbers left to retreat off the ridge should I have needed then. This next photo looking back over my assent route was taken from about 13,500 ft. just before I dropped off into the last notch I would encounter on this ridge. By this point in time I had negotiated at least 5 notches, each presenting their own challenges. I included this photo to show an example of some of the interesting rock formations that dotted the ridge. This photo was taken as I climbed out of the last notch about half way up the final bit of class 4 terrain on this side of the mountain. I was both sad and glad to see this portion of the climb coming to an end. The climb behind me was right at the limit of my comfort zone for a solo climb. I would miss the excitement but after almost an hour and half of focused movement I was ready for a bit of easier class 2 / 3 hiking. Finishing up the last bit of class 4 the Prow came in to view. It was time to rejoin the standard route and take the summit. I think I summited about 8:45 but I am not positive about that. While I was up there I ran into 3 different couples, one of whom were the campers above me the night before, they asked if I was the guy saluting the passing ATVers. Apparently they found the whole thing rather humorous. I on the other hand was still feeling a little embarrassed. I also ran into a fellow 14er.com user, Vagabond and his climbing partner, it was nice to see a familiar face up there. Last but not least were two fellow Boulderites. It was a busy 30 minutes on the summit. I would have remained on the summit longer but the weather looked to be taking a turn for the worse. I had no clue what I was in for on my descent route so I wanted to get started ASAP. I came off the summit block via the standard route but instead of traversing left towards the Prow I continued straight down the southwest gully riding it's western rim most of the way down. The interior of the gully appeared to have loads of loose debris where as the west rim though a more technical (mixed class3/4) down climb, was surprisingly debris free solid rock. Almost immediately Wetterhorn's northwest face comes fully into view, this sheer face is equally as dramatic the northeast face. Once again I was pleased to find myself greeted with stunning views and thrilling exposures. For some reason the upper most part of this route felt a bit more airy than most of the East Ridge did, perhaps it was the sheer drop off into Wetterhorn Basin. Whatever the reason the whole experience was breath taking. Again I have to say the photos I have do the views no justice. The down climb on the rim was very exciting, it is one of those places that you don't to get too close to the edge because one slip will be your last. I found my way down and around various rock formations, where necessary I would skirt around the interior side of unclimbable obstacles. For the most part I was able to stay fairly close to the edge of the rim enjoying the full extent of the views and exposure. Having been able to see nothing of this side of the mountain on my recon attempts the previous two days, I had no clue if there were going to be cliffs near the bottom of this rim. For most of my down climb things looked dicey near the bottom end so as I neared the bottom I traversed from the rim back into the main swale of the gully and safely found my way on to the scree at the foot of this side of Wetterhorn. As I traversed around the foot of Wetterhorn to the west it became clear that with careful route finding one could descend almost the entire gully rim. If I do Wetterhorn in the summer again I will use this route as my assent route, the views and exposure are just too much fun to be missed. From the foot of Wetterhorn I walked southwest down a gently sloped ridge to the saddle that lies between Wetterhorn Basin and West Matterhorn Creek Basin, here I picked up the Wetterhorn Basin Trail. Though only a class 2 this trail it was hard to follow. The trail would fade in and out of the thick turf that made up the basin floor. One thing I had been able to discern during my earlier recon of the area was that I had to exit the upper most basin at its western most end to avoid being cliffed out. Once I had worked my way to this point the trail became much more obvious. From here the trail continued on down hill working it's way around the western slopes of the lower basin eventually intersecting with the Matterhorn Cutoff Trail. It was on this section of trail that I ran into the remains of the coyotes breakfast. At first I saw a small tuft of white wool then a patch of blood and finally a hoof attached to the lower portion of a leg. They had been very efficient in disposing of every thing else, wool and all. Here is a photo showing my descent route into the lower basin. The Matterhorn Cutoff Trail took me further down into the basin and eventually back to the Ridge Stock Trail were my day had begun. The descent route I took added about a mile and an hour to the whole trip. I am glad I came off the mountain this way instead of using the standard route. I got a lot more views and thrills for my efforts and I had the West Matterhorn Creek Basin all to myself. I returned to camp just as the rain started at about 12:30 pm. The day's journey had been a wonderful success. The day is what you make of it and I will remember this one for a long time. I will end this trip report with be sharing an experience I had the next morning as I was preparing to move on to Lizard Head Wilderness and my climb of Mt Wilson. It was about 10:00 am and I was busying myself with organizing and packing up my camp. My head was in a real quiet place, about the only thing on my mind was the pleasure previous days climb. A quite put-putting noise caught my attention and looked to see what it was. Low and behold here came a lady on her ATV. Before I realized what had happened I had given her a wave hello, a quick nod and had mouthed " Good morning" to her. She slowed her machine to a near stop and said "Oh...Excuse me ... I'm sorry". She then turned the ATV around, coasted down the road and was not seen or heard from again. Throughout my adult life it has often been my observation that... as is the inside so is the out side. I hope you have enjoyed my trip report. If you are interested in getting beta on any of the routes I covered just drop me a PM and I will try to get back to you in a timely fashion. Be well, Ken Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Wetterhorn Peak- Via East Ridge

Wetterhorn Peak 14,015ft.
Date climbed: 8/05/07
Assent route: East Ridge
Descent route: Southwest Gully Rim / Gully
Miles: 7.8
Elevation gain: 3,280ft. +

Before I get started I want to thank all of those who posted beta on this area before I left for my trip.

I arrived at Matterhorn Creek Trailhead about 36 hours before my scheduled climb and set up a dry base camp in the trees just below the 4WD parking lot in what I believed to be the prime camping site (nice score). Once this was done I waked up into West Matterhore Creek via the Mattrehorn Cutoff Trail to do some recon on my descent route but found the entire area socked in, so I returned to camp and spent the evening relaxing reading and watching the rain.

The next morning I got up ate, packed some food, water and rain gear in my day pack and headed out to do some recon on Wetterhorn's east ridge. After reading SarahT's trip report about a climb in the area I was a bit apprehensive about what I would find up there and was hoping I would not have to bail on the ridge climb idea. As the ridge between Wetterhorn and Matterhorn came into view it became clear to me that the east end of this ridge consisted of much more decomposed rock than the western end. I located what I believed to be the cone shaped tower Gerry Roach describes in his route description of the area and was pleased to find that the rock looked much more solid and consolidated west of this point. I took some photos and made a few mental notes about my approach and the location of the gully I wanted to use to gain the ridge the next day and headed out to do my recon on my descent route.

As I was headed back down to the hill to pickup the Matterhorn Cutoff trail I notice that there were ATV tracks crisscrossing the trail and then heading out into the tundra. I was still well into the wilderness and above tree line and was once again suppressed and disappointed at the ignorance and stupidity of my fellow man. It pained me to know that I was sharing the San Juan's with people who had so little respect for a place so very special. I spent the next hour or so fantasizing about walking into the local ATVer camp and setting their noisy little machines ablaze, stringing piano wire between trees were it was clear they were eroding new roads in the forest floor, disposing of all my available sugar in their gas tanks and last but not least catching one of them above tree line in the wilderness, tackling them off their machine and pounding some sense into their thick heads. Don't get me wrong I would never seriously consider acting on such thoughts, it has been over twenty years since I have found a need to take a swing at someone I am generally a peace loving man, but seeing the ATV tracks crisscrossing the wilderness really got under my skin. It makes me happy to know that people have jobs and income from the manufacture, sales, rental and servicing of ATV's and I don't really see ATV's as the problem. It's the small minority of people who show no limits to where they are willing to take them that I see as the problem. Enough ranting for now....

By the time I got into the upper basin of the west fork of Matterhorn Creek things were once again socked in and I was still unclear about my descent route. I could clearly see the trail coming off the upper most basin but the clouds obscured every thing above that. It started to pour so I returned to camp and spent the rest of the day reading my book, watching the rain and visiting with fellow climbers as they streamed in.

About 45 minuets before dark the quiet of the evening was broken. A small group of ATVers zoomed up the road past our campsites turned around at the trailhead and were zooming back down when I found myself in the middle of the road flipping them the bird ' ..!., ". It all happened so fast that it caught me by surprise (did I happen to mention that I can sometimes be rash). I could see some of my fellow campers, a couple, watching me from above perform my ridicules and childish display, it was clear that they felt the same as I did but had more tact than I did in that moment. Now I had embarrassed myself. As for the ATVers only one of them acknowledged my salute with a small nod as he zoomed away. Feeling as though I had just made a complete ass of myself I withdrew from the road and retreated to my camp. As I settled in for the night my head was occasionally occupied by thoughts like; "if it were me on the receiving end of my salute I would probably responded in some passive aggressive fashion just to piss me off", "there are probably better ways to educate people that being a rude prick" and "who the hell am I to assume that it is MY road they are zooming up in the first place". In the end I concluded that I was taking myself way too seriously and needed to find a more constructive way to vent my frustrations. I actually found myself chuckling at myself before I fell asleep.

I awoke at 3:00am, it was time to pull my act together and try to beat the rain. I ate breakfast, packed for the day and hit the trail by 4:00 am. Most of the clouds had cleared and it was a crisp starry morning. As I moved up the trail past the first trail intersection I could hear some coyotes working the herd of sheep grazing in the upper basin of West Matterhorn Creek, later that day I would stumble across the remains of their breakfast. I continued to move up the tail past the intersection of the Ridge Stock and Wetterhorn Peak Trails. It was still dark when I came to the boulder field where I would be leaving the main trail. I found a comfortable boulder sit on, had a snack and waited for first light. At about 6:15am I began to find my way across the boulder field. Near the foot of the ridge the terrain changed form boulders to talus and finally to loose scree. It wasn't long until I was standing at about 12,880 ft. looking up at the gully I would be climbing up to gain the ridge. There was still not enough light to safely move on into the gully so I waited another 15 minutes.

It took a few class 4 moves on slippery wet rock to get from the scree field up into the gully and from there it was an easy class 3 scramble on fairly solid rock up to a small notch in the ridge crest. I arriver at about 7:00am.

From here I climbed across the broken face of a large slab of rock near the ridge crest. Once around this obstacle the climb before me came into view. Up to this point the climb had been easy and the route ahead was looking good.

I continued my climb moving up and down in and around as needed. The condition of the rock was ever changing, some times it was solid and stable and at other times it would crumble under my feet. There was no predicting what the next turn would bring. Thus far I had been engaged in mostly a class 3 scramble with a few class 4 moves requiring most of my attention due to the ever-changing conditions of the rock. Nonetheless I was finding a nice rhythm and beginning to move in sync with the ridge and its dynamic nature. Route finding was a non-issue. Here is a photo looking back at the first 15 minutes of my ridge climb. Unfortunately the scale is lost in the surrounding landscape.

Soon the angle of the ridge began to increase and I found myself having to combine more and more class 4 moves to continue my progress. At any point in time one can move down 10 to 50 feet to climbers left and keep the whole climb to a class 3 scramble, but what would be the point the best views were from the ridge top and my head was now 100% engaged in the climb in front of me. It was proving to be a good time on Wetterhorn's East Ridge. Twenty five more minutes of climbing and I was high enough to start to catch views of Coxcomb and Redcliff to the northwest.

Just above where the last photo was taken the remainder of my ridge climb comes into view as well as Wetterhorn's dramatic northeast face. The photo below does it no justice. Wow what a sight! The closer I got to the end of this climb the more dramatic the views became and the more exhilarating the exposure. This ridge just kept getting better and better.

In this steeper terrain my progress slowed a bit, I was now into mixed class 4 / occasional low class 5 moves to stay on or near the ridge crest. More than once I would grab what I thought was a nice solid jug only to have it pop off in my hand, smear points gave way under my feet occasionally as well. I made sure to test each hand and foot hold before I transitioned through the next move. Despite the fact that I was now having to wok for my gains I continued to safely move over the terrain enjoying myself.

One of the questions I had in the planning stages of this climb was about thunderstorm bail out points, as I moved along the ridge I was pleased to find several suitable places down to climbers left to retreat off the ridge should I have needed then.

This next photo looking back over my assent route was taken from about 13,500 ft. just before I dropped off into the last notch I would encounter on this ridge. By this point in time I had negotiated at least 5 notches, each presenting their own challenges.

I included this photo to show an example of some of the interesting rock formations that dotted the ridge.

This photo was taken as I climbed out of the last notch about half way up the final bit of class 4 terrain on this side of the mountain. I was both sad and glad to see this portion of the climb coming to an end. The climb behind me was right at the limit of my comfort zone for a solo climb. I would miss the excitement but after almost an hour and half of focused movement I was ready for a bit of easier class 2 / 3 hiking.

Finishing up the last bit of class 4 the Prow came in to view. It was time to rejoin the standard route and take the summit.

I think I summited about 8:45 but I am not positive about that. While I was up there I ran into 3 different couples, one of whom were the campers above me the night before, they asked if I was the guy saluting the passing ATVers. Apparently they found the whole thing rather humorous. I on the other hand was still feeling a little embarrassed. I also ran into a fellow 14er.com user, Vagabond and his climbing partner, it was nice to see a familiar face up there. Last but not least were two fellow Boulderites. It was a busy 30 minutes on the summit. I would have remained on the summit longer but the weather looked to be taking a turn for the worse.

I had no clue what I was in for on my descent route so I wanted to get started ASAP. I came off the summit block via the standard route but instead of traversing left towards the Prow I continued straight down the southwest gully riding it's western rim most of the way down. The interior of the gully appeared to have loads of loose debris where as the west rim though a more technical (mixed class3/4) down climb, was surprisingly debris free solid rock.

Almost immediately Wetterhorn's northwest face comes fully into view, this sheer face is equally as dramatic the northeast face. Once again I was pleased to find myself greeted with stunning views and thrilling exposures. For some reason the upper most part of this route felt a bit more airy than most of the East Ridge did, perhaps it was the sheer drop off into Wetterhorn Basin. Whatever the reason the whole experience was breath taking. Again I have to say the photos I have do the views no justice.

The down climb on the rim was very exciting, it is one of those places that you don't to get too close to the edge because one slip will be your last. I found my way down and around various rock formations, where necessary I would skirt around the interior side of unclimbable obstacles. For the most part I was able to stay fairly close to the edge of the rim enjoying the full extent of the views and exposure. Having been able to see nothing of this side of the mountain on my recon attempts the previous two days, I had no clue if there were going to be cliffs near the bottom of this rim. For most of my down climb things looked dicey near the bottom end so as I neared the bottom I traversed from the rim back into the main swale of the gully and safely found my way on to the scree at the foot of this side of Wetterhorn. As I traversed around the foot of Wetterhorn to the west it became clear that with careful route finding one could descend almost the entire gully rim. If I do Wetterhorn in the summer again I will use this route as my assent route, the views and exposure are just too much fun to be missed.

From the foot of Wetterhorn I walked southwest down a gently sloped ridge to the saddle that lies between Wetterhorn Basin and West Matterhorn Creek Basin, here I picked up the Wetterhorn Basin Trail. Though only a class 2 this trail it was hard to follow. The trail would fade in and out of the thick turf that made up the basin floor. One thing I had been able to discern during my earlier recon of the area was that I had to exit the upper most basin at its western most end to avoid being cliffed out. Once I had worked my way to this point the trail became much more obvious. From here the trail continued on down hill working it's way around the western slopes of the lower basin eventually intersecting with the Matterhorn Cutoff Trail.

It was on this section of trail that I ran into the remains of the coyotes breakfast. At first I saw a small tuft of white wool then a patch of blood and finally a hoof attached to the lower portion of a leg. They had been very efficient in disposing of every thing else, wool and all.

Here is a photo showing my descent route into the lower basin.

The Matterhorn Cutoff Trail took me further down into the basin and eventually back to the Ridge Stock Trail were my day had begun. The descent route I took added about a mile and an hour to the whole trip. I am glad I came off the mountain this way instead of using the standard route. I got a lot more views and thrills for my efforts and I had the West Matterhorn Creek Basin all to myself. I returned to camp just as the rain started at about 12:30 pm. The day's journey had been a wonderful success. The day is what you make of it and I will remember this one for a long time.

I will end this trip report with be sharing an experience I had the next morning as I was preparing to move on to Lizard Head Wilderness and my climb of Mt Wilson.

It was about 10:00 am and I was busying myself with organizing and packing up my camp. My head was in a real quiet place, about the only thing on my mind was the pleasure previous days climb. A quite put-putting noise caught my attention and looked to see what it was. Low and behold here came a lady on her ATV. Before I realized what had happened I had given her a wave hello, a quick nod and had mouthed " Good morning" to her. She slowed her machine to a near stop and said "Oh...Excuse me ... I'm sorry". She then turned the ATV around, coasted down the road and was not seen or heard from again.

Throughout my adult life it has often been my observation that... as is the inside so is the out side.

I hope you have enjoyed my trip report. If you are interested in getting beta on any of the routes I covered just drop me a PM and I will try to get back to you in a timely fashion.
Be well,
Ken

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

PKR	the salute 8/21/2007 2:46pm
thatguy	Cool report 11/30/2010 5:20pm Hey PKR, We were that couple that saw you give the ol' your number one sign to the ATVers. Hilarious. Glad to hear that decent route worked out for you. We glanced down it, way out of our league. Thanks for posting a report, during the walk out I kept glancing at the east ridge wondering what line you took to the top. Now I know. Congrats.

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