Sunlight Peak Trip Report 08/08/2008

Peak(s):	Sunlight Peak - 14,061 feet Windom Peak - 14,089 feet
Date Posted:	08/08/2008
Date Climbed:	07/19/2008
Author:	firsttracks

Solo Moonlight Climb
Earlier this year, I missed my 8-year-old goal of completing the 14ers before my 30th birthday. My new goal is to finish them by the end of this summer. Around 4th of July, I realized that I only had several weekends available to climb before the end of the summer. And, I only had two long weekends during that time frame. It was time to get busy. My first free weekend was July 18-20th. I'd been hearing about the possibility of the Needleton bridge being torn down at some point this summer, so I didn't want to waste an opportunity for easy access to Sunlight and Windom. I decided to take advantage of my three days and headed up to Durango to catch the train for a solo trip to the Chicago Basin. I enjoyed the train ride to Needleton. Along the way, I talked with ROO about climbing the 14ers. He was headed up there to climb Mt. Eolus. The train dropped us off at 11:35, and I grabbed my pack and began the long haul to the upper basin. I hiked without a break all the way into the upper basin at the final camp site. My favorite camp site from a previous trip was closed for restoration, so I had to find a new spot at the edge of legal camping. I set up camp and checked my watch - 2:45. I surprised myself how quickly I had made the hike in! The monsoons quickly arrived, and I spent the afternoon in my tent reading a book. When the rain passed in the early evening, I refilled my water bottles and ate some dinner. I got to bed early so I could make an early start under the full moon. At 2:15, I was awake and ate a quick breakfast. I was on the trail by 2:20 under the light of my headlamp and the full moon. I made good time up to Twin Lakes, and traveled over a fair amount of hard-packed snow as I made my way to the east side of the lakes. In the hanging basin below Sunlight and Windom, I had my first glimpse of what awaited me. Lots of snow still lingered, so I traced out a path up Sunlight to avoid the snow. Instead of heading up the red gully, I mostly stayed to climbers left. Eventually, I intersected the ridge and found some fun third class climbing until I found myself at the base of the more vertical climbing section. I left my backpack at the base, and grabbed my camera. After some fun scrambling, I found myself at the summit marker: It was still a crisp night under the full moon: Still under the light of the moon and my headlamp, I checked the time: 4:20. I signed the summit register, and looked at the final summit block: I was very surprised by the difficulty of the final move! The 4th class rock hop had much more exposure than I thought it would. I looked at the 5th class climbing up the slab, and found that much more to my liking. Several moves over thin face holds later, I was on the summit block proper. Here's a picture looking down over the 4th class block from the summit: After a quick summit self-portrait, it was time to go: Again, I looked at the 4th class move, and I still didn't like the penalty of failure. I opted to downclimb the 5th class slab. This wasn't too bad, and I was soon back on solid ground. I headed back for my pack, and scouted out the traverse to Windom. With the snow still lingering up the slopes of Windom, the easiest path was almost back to the head of the basin. I scrambled down the slopes of Sunlight back towards Twin Lakes and intersected the rocks leading up to Windom's saddle. I hit the saddle and continued up the ridge, finding some fun scrambling moves on my way to the summit. At 5:49, I found myself standing on top of Windom and looking at the summit marker: With still 15 minutes until sunrise, I snapped a few pics of the surrounding beauty. Mt. Eolus still had a fair amount of snow: Looking down on Columbine Pass: Self-portrait, with Sunlight in the distance: I began thinking about catching the first train and making a quick exit, so I didn't wait for the sunrise. Instead, I headed back down to make a hasty departure. Twin Lakes was particularly gorgeous in the sunrise, along with a nice looking couloir for perhaps a ski trip this winter: I began the trek back to the upper basin. The waterfalls were spectacular as usual: The wildflowers were looking nice, as well: As I approached my camp, I noticed the mountain goats playing around: Luckily, they hadn't chewed up my tent. I packed everything up, and headed back to Needleton. I arrived at 10:40, and waited an hour to get picked up. I finally finished the train ride to Silverton, where I grabbed the last bus seat for the more expeditious trip back to Durango. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Solo Moonlight Climb

Earlier this year, I missed my 8-year-old goal of completing the 14ers before my 30th birthday. My new goal is to finish them by the end of this summer. Around 4th of July, I realized that I only had several weekends available to climb before the end of the summer. And, I only had two long weekends during that time frame. It was time to get busy.

My first free weekend was July 18-20th. I'd been hearing about the possibility of the Needleton bridge being torn down at some point this summer, so I didn't want to waste an opportunity for easy access to Sunlight and Windom. I decided to take advantage of my three days and headed up to Durango to catch the train for a solo trip to the Chicago Basin.

I enjoyed the train ride to Needleton. Along the way, I talked with ROO about climbing the 14ers. He was headed up there to climb Mt. Eolus. The train dropped us off at 11:35, and I grabbed my pack and began the long haul to the upper basin. I hiked without a break all the way into the upper basin at the final camp site. My favorite camp site from a previous trip was closed for restoration, so I had to find a new spot at the edge of legal camping.

I set up camp and checked my watch - 2:45. I surprised myself how quickly I had made the hike in! The monsoons quickly arrived, and I spent the afternoon in my tent reading a book. When the rain passed in the early evening, I refilled my water bottles and ate some dinner. I got to bed early so I could make an early start under the full moon.

At 2:15, I was awake and ate a quick breakfast. I was on the trail by 2:20 under the light of my headlamp and the full moon. I made good time up to Twin Lakes, and traveled over a fair amount of hard-packed snow as I made my way to the east side of the lakes. In the hanging basin below Sunlight and Windom, I had my first glimpse of what awaited me. Lots of snow still lingered, so I traced out a path up Sunlight to avoid the snow.

Instead of heading up the red gully, I mostly stayed to climbers left. Eventually, I intersected the ridge and found some fun third class climbing until I found myself at the base of the more vertical climbing section. I left my backpack at the base, and grabbed my camera. After some fun scrambling, I found myself at the summit marker:

It was still a crisp night under the full moon:

Still under the light of the moon and my headlamp, I checked the time: 4:20. I signed the summit register, and looked at the final summit block:

I was very surprised by the difficulty of the final move! The 4th class rock hop had much more exposure than I thought it would. I looked at the 5th class climbing up the slab, and found that much more to my liking. Several moves over thin face holds later, I was on the summit block proper. Here's a picture looking down over the 4th class block from the summit:

After a quick summit self-portrait, it was time to go:

Again, I looked at the 4th class move, and I still didn't like the penalty of failure. I opted to downclimb the 5th class slab. This wasn't too bad, and I was soon back on solid ground. I headed back for my pack, and scouted out the traverse to Windom.

With the snow still lingering up the slopes of Windom, the easiest path was almost back to the head of the basin. I scrambled down the slopes of Sunlight back towards Twin Lakes and intersected the rocks leading up to Windom's saddle. I hit the saddle and continued up the ridge, finding some fun scrambling moves on my way to the summit.

At 5:49, I found myself standing on top of Windom and looking at the summit marker:

With still 15 minutes until sunrise, I snapped a few pics of the surrounding beauty. Mt. Eolus still had a fair amount of snow:

Looking down on Columbine Pass:

Self-portrait, with Sunlight in the distance:

I began thinking about catching the first train and making a quick exit, so I didn't wait for the sunrise. Instead, I headed back down to make a hasty departure. Twin Lakes was particularly gorgeous in the sunrise, along with a nice looking couloir for perhaps a ski trip this winter:

I began the trek back to the upper basin. The waterfalls were spectacular as usual:

The wildflowers were looking nice, as well:

As I approached my camp, I noticed the mountain goats playing around:

Luckily, they hadn't chewed up my tent. I packed everything up, and headed back to Needleton. I arrived at 10:40, and waited an hour to get picked up. I finally finished the train ride to Silverton, where I grabbed the last bus seat for the more expeditious trip back to Durango.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

covfrrider	Awesome Job! 8/8/2008 5:19pm A new perspective on these peaks... and congrats a path less traveled!
scotthsu	Nice way to avoid the crowds... 8/8/2008 5:59pm by doing it via moonlight! Good luck finishing up this summer!
uwe	You Da Man! 8/8/2008 6:34pm Wow, by night. I have always wanted to give that a go. So, no spooky? Hey, great to meet you on Pyramid! 3 hours...that is awesome. And all the way from NM. Very cool.
firsttracks	Thanks for the comments 8/9/2008 7:59pm This trip was fun -- I like pushing myself to move fast and experience more of the wilderness that you get during the usual day hikes. No spooky here! I enjoyed the night hike a lot. It‘s a great way to be alone in the mountains.
Matt	Great timing 1/19/2011 3:38am With regards to arriving at the summit block I am loving these ”path less traveled” TRs lately. Great job. May the Land of Enchantment boast another finisher by summer‘s end. Best fortune to you.

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