Maroon Peak Trip Report 08/25/2008

Peak(s):	Maroon Peak - 14,163 feet
Date Posted:	08/25/2008
Date Climbed:	08/20/2008
Author:	Matt

Red Rocks and Blue Skies on S. Maroon
While Maroon Peak comes near the end of the 14er checklist path for me, there are plenty of reasons why my heart leaped in my chest as I finally approached the summit. First, I was afraid to try it for the first few years of this hobby, especially since I did most of my hiking solo when I was driving up from New Mexico on weekends. Second, I was blessed to have a willing Jeffro, who's been atop both Bells numerous times, meet me in Aspen a few weeks ago for the traverse. However, that day came on the heels of a 15,000 ft climbed/five summit week, and I was beyond tired. Add in some iffy pizza and subsequent overnight GI distress from the New York style pizzeria near the Ute Mountaineer, and I was in no shape to attempt the traverse. What transpired that day, a climb of N. Maroon with no route finding issues at all thanks to Jeff, became my favorite 14er climb to date. Great mountain, better company, but I digress... I've been inching toward #58 since a late start to the "season" on Massive on June 28th. The hope was to take only one trip to Aspen, and stay there until no more Elk 14ers remained to climb. Pues... Things didn't work out that way--one trip for Conundrum, one for Pyramid/N. Maroon, one for Snowmass, one for S. Maroon. That's a lot of gas coming from the San Juans, but, if you want to make an omelette, you gotta break some eggs. Planning is not my thing, anyway. This climb & the group came together slowly, as I put out a feeler on the forum for partners and, initially, got no response. Fortunately, after Moonnugs and I polished off the S Ridge of Snowmass, he was itching for more Elk action, and we made plans for a Wednesday climb. On the summit of Holy Cross, I met Matt Miller (Montana Matt), who'd just run up the summit in a little less than 2:30, making quick work of any ideas I might have that I made good time myself. He was interested, so the invitation was extended, and he agreed to meet us. Happy with a strong group, I started studying the route. I get an email from anthonylebaron, a fellow New Mexican also hoboing around Colorado this summer, and after seeing he'd survived Little Bear, made plans to meet him in Aspen the day before, and pack in to the bent tree. He brought along his friend Jaime (also her username), and the three of us packed it up, packed it in to the site just across the trail from the bent tree. Kevin (Moonnugs) and Matt met us there at 5:30 a.m., sharp, with news that a few more groups were on their heels. We hit the trail posthaste, knowing we'd rather be above any rockfall than below it. I'd read Jamienellis' TR for the Bells the night before and laughed out loud at the account of Erick Lord's reaction to the initial 2800 ft (in one mile) climb to the ridge. I thought, "He must be exaggerating." Nope. Almost all the 14ers have a long, grinding slog to the top of a ridgeline or saddle. Some are looser and/or steeper than others--Columbia, Challenger & El Diente come to mind--but this one takes the cake. It starts out with a decent trail, but deteriorates to trail segments, then just loose, sketchy crap. I never thought El Diente via Navajo Lake had any competition for the miserable approach award, but it takes a distant second. We lovingly dubbed it, "The slope of death." Near the bottom, looking at the moon above morning alpenglow Anthony and Jaime. Don't let the smiles fool you. This was no picnic. Approaching the top, loose rock abounds (photo by Jaime) Kevin set a torrid pace up to the ridgeline, and we huffed, puffed, and fussed our way to the top in two hours flat. How? I think we must have hit a time warp along the way, because time's supposed to fly when you're having fun, not struggling to stay upright and avoid sentencing people below you to death with loose rocks under every step. On the ridge, we looked at the non-threatening sky, and took a well-deserved break for food, water, photos, and a look at the fun we'd all been waiting for. With Kevin again in the lead, we headed for the first solid climbing of the day, a chimney. Matt coming up Owing to Maroon's reputation, we were concerned that route finding might present the day's biggest challenge, especially if the weather turned sour. Fortunately, neither was to be. After Kevin and I tackled Pyramid without checking the route description even once, I was confident his considerable skill in this area would save the day. Moonnugs calculating (photo by Jaime) After the chimney, we headed toward the choice of two gullies. Knowing that there is a crossover between them, we started out in the first, then climbed up onto the rib that separates the two, avoiding lots of loose rock in the process. I'll take class 3 and occasional class 4 moves on solid rock over loose class 2 any day. Sure, we ditched the "trail," but Kevin's "extra credit scrambling" always proves to be the best path to the top. There are plenty of cairns ("Karens," LOL) to point the multiple ways up, as there are certainly more than one. We more or less followed Bill's route--climb up to ledge, traverse, look for cairns, repeat"with one long and loose gully thrown in to keep us honest. (photo by Jaime) After the top of the gully, we hopped on a rib, then approached what's been described as "steep, complicated terrain" from about 13,800 to 13,900 ft. That provided some of the best scrambling of the day, and soon, I could see the remaining, easy path to the summit. (photo by Jaime) Something gave way inside me, and a smile like that of permagrin took hold of me. After all the planning, fretting, and worry that somehow, we'd not get this summit today, and I'd have to come back over and over before my family flies in for #58 next week, the goal was not only within reach, it was obvious and inevitable. Moonnugs was kind enough to let me be the first on the summit that day, and I ran to the top, filled with something more powerful than summit fever. Call it relief, accomplishment, joy, or a combination of all those and more. People were pretty stoked. Anthony (photo by Jaime) Jaime Moonnugs, me, Matt (photo by Jaime) Anthony had a tripod, so we took a group shot with the "14,156' " sign that someone left on the summit (quick, call the LNT police). The weather still looked friendly, and we spent about half an hour on the summit, taking pics, eating, and marveling at our good fortune so far. We had great weather, a strong group, and no rockfall or route finding issues to contend with. Snowmass & Capitol N. Maroon Eventually, it was time to head down. Even though the clouds gave no sign of being angry, none of us wanted to take the chance of dealing with either lightning or wet rock on the long, tricky way back. Starting at about 10:20, we began retracing our route, for the most part. Surprisingly, the route finding was a bit more challenging on the way down, since we'd been improvising on the ascent. We used several groups coming up as quasi cairns. About 20 minutes below the summit, I heard, "Hey, Matt" coming from down below. I looked to see Todd, a raft guide from Aspen, whom I'd met atop Holy Cross on the same day I met the other Matt. Small world, great world. We said "hi," and kept moving on. Once we got back to the ridge, it was break time again. Lurking in the back of everyone's heads was the specter of the slope of death. Hurry? Who, us? So, we moped around, took more pics, and then... We were ambushed by a crazy goat who leaped from above through the group: (photo by Jaime) After that, we had no choice. . It was time for the agonizingly slow, treacherous descent back to Maroon Creek. On the way up, we'd spied a different route that ostensibly offered a less sketchy path downward. Upon further review, it seemed a toss up to me, but we gave it a shot, and my attention was soon fully captured by the need to make it down in one piece. On the descent (photo by Jaime) Even though Jaime, Anthony, and I still had to break camp and pack the 3.5 miles out, I've never been happier to reach a main trail. All that was missing was a beer back at camp... While we broke camp, Matt said his goodbyes and headed back to his car, since he was bushed, having summited both Yale and Huron the day before, and with the long drive back to Boulder ahead of him, we all wished him well (see thebeave7's TR of "Dayhiking the Chicago Basin 14ers" for his remaining exploits of the week). Trail runners are not human... Kevin mentioned that he had cold beer back at the TH, and visions of ribs at the Hickory House became irresistible, so we beat feet back to Maroon Lake for some cold ones, and hit the road as soon as Anthony and Jaime came into view. Like Maroon Peak and our strong group of climbers, Hickory House did not disappoint. After huge plates of BBQ and several pitchers of 1554, we were all ready to call it a day, and a great one at that! In comparing the two Bells, I found S. Maroon to be much closer to their reputation for loose rock and tedious route finding. N. Maroon's shorter approach and heavier emphasis on climbing made it more fun, but not necessarily more satisfying. IMO, of all the Elk Range 14ers, only S. Maroon lived up to the hype for terrible rock and difficulty picking a way to the summit. All of them are more fun than I could ever have believed, though, except maybe Conundrum. Find yourself on the summit of either Bell, and you've got something to be proud of--S. Maroon for the sheer amount of effort, preparation, and good fortune it requires, N. Maroon for its excellent scrambling and demands of route finding skill. Either way, you come out a winner. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Red Rocks and Blue Skies on S. Maroon

While Maroon Peak comes near the end of the 14er checklist path for me, there are plenty of reasons why my heart leaped in my chest as I finally approached the summit. First, I was afraid to try it for the first few years of this hobby, especially since I did most of my hiking solo when I was driving up from New Mexico on weekends. Second, I was blessed to have a willing Jeffro, who's been atop both Bells numerous times, meet me in Aspen a few weeks ago for the traverse. However, that day came on the heels of a 15,000 ft climbed/five summit week, and I was beyond tired. Add in some iffy pizza and subsequent overnight GI distress from the New York style pizzeria near the Ute Mountaineer, and I was in no shape to attempt the traverse. What transpired that day, a climb of N. Maroon with no route finding issues at all thanks to Jeff, became my favorite 14er climb to date. Great mountain, better company, but I digress...
I've been inching toward #58 since a late start to the "season" on Massive on June 28th. The hope was to take only one trip to Aspen, and stay there until no more Elk 14ers remained to climb. Pues... Things didn't work out that way--one trip for Conundrum, one for Pyramid/N. Maroon, one for Snowmass, one for S. Maroon. That's a lot of gas coming from the San Juans, but, if you want to make an omelette, you gotta break some eggs. Planning is not my thing, anyway.
This climb & the group came together slowly, as I put out a feeler on the forum for partners and, initially, got no response. Fortunately, after Moonnugs and I polished off the S Ridge of Snowmass, he was itching for more Elk action, and we made plans for a Wednesday climb. On the summit of Holy Cross, I met Matt Miller (Montana Matt), who'd just run up the summit in a little less than 2:30, making quick work of any ideas I might have that I made good time myself. He was interested, so the invitation was extended, and he agreed to meet us. Happy with a strong group, I started studying the route. I get an email from anthonylebaron, a fellow New Mexican also hoboing around Colorado this summer, and after seeing he'd survived Little Bear, made plans to meet him in Aspen the day before, and pack in to the bent tree. He brought along his friend Jaime (also her username), and the three of us packed it up, packed it in to the site just across the trail from the bent tree.
Kevin (Moonnugs) and Matt met us there at 5:30 a.m., sharp, with news that a few more groups were on their heels. We hit the trail posthaste, knowing we'd rather be above any rockfall than below it.
I'd read Jamienellis' TR for the Bells the night before and laughed out loud at the account of Erick Lord's reaction to the initial 2800 ft (in one mile) climb to the ridge. I thought, "He must be exaggerating." Nope. Almost all the 14ers have a long, grinding slog to the top of a ridgeline or saddle. Some are looser and/or steeper than others--Columbia, Challenger & El Diente come to mind--but this one takes the cake. It starts out with a decent trail, but deteriorates to trail segments, then just loose, sketchy crap. I never thought El Diente via Navajo Lake had any competition for the miserable approach award, but it takes a distant second. We lovingly dubbed it, "The slope of death."

Near the bottom, looking at the moon above morning alpenglow

Anthony and Jaime. Don't let the smiles fool you. This was no picnic.

Approaching the top, loose rock abounds

(photo by Jaime)

Kevin set a torrid pace up to the ridgeline, and we huffed, puffed, and fussed our way to the top in two hours flat. How? I think we must have hit a time warp along the way, because time's supposed to fly when you're having fun, not struggling to stay upright and avoid sentencing people below you to death with loose rocks under every step.
On the ridge, we looked at the non-threatening sky, and took a well-deserved break for food, water, photos, and a look at the fun we'd all been waiting for.

With Kevin again in the lead, we headed for the first solid climbing of the day, a chimney.

Matt coming up

Owing to Maroon's reputation, we were concerned that route finding might present the day's biggest challenge, especially if the weather turned sour. Fortunately, neither was to be. After Kevin and I tackled Pyramid without checking the route description even once, I was confident his considerable skill in this area would save the day.

Moonnugs calculating

(photo by Jaime)

After the chimney, we headed toward the choice of two gullies. Knowing that there is a crossover between them, we started out in the first, then climbed up onto the rib that separates the two, avoiding lots of loose rock in the process. I'll take class 3 and occasional class 4 moves on solid rock over loose class 2 any day. Sure, we ditched the "trail," but Kevin's "extra credit scrambling" always proves to be the best path to the top. There are plenty of cairns ("Karens," LOL) to point the multiple ways up, as there are certainly more than one. We more or less followed Bill's route--climb up to ledge, traverse, look for cairns, repeat"with one long and loose gully thrown in to keep us honest.

(photo by Jaime)

After the top of the gully, we hopped on a rib, then approached what's been described as "steep, complicated terrain" from about 13,800 to 13,900 ft. That provided some of the best scrambling of the day, and soon, I could see the remaining, easy path to the summit.

(photo by Jaime)

Something gave way inside me, and a smile like that of permagrin took hold of me. After all the planning, fretting, and worry that somehow, we'd not get this summit today, and I'd have to come back over and over before my family flies in for #58 next week, the goal was not only within reach, it was obvious and inevitable. Moonnugs was kind enough to let me be the first on the summit that day, and I ran to the top, filled with something more powerful than summit fever. Call it relief, accomplishment, joy, or a combination of all those and more.

People were pretty stoked.

Anthony

(photo by Jaime)

Jaime

Moonnugs, me, Matt

(photo by Jaime)

Anthony had a tripod, so we took a group shot with the "14,156' " sign that someone left on the summit (quick, call the LNT police).

The weather still looked friendly, and we spent about half an hour on the summit, taking pics, eating, and marveling at our good fortune so far. We had great weather, a strong group, and no rockfall or route finding issues to contend with.

Snowmass & Capitol

N. Maroon

Eventually, it was time to head down. Even though the clouds gave no sign of being angry, none of us wanted to take the chance of dealing with either lightning or wet rock on the long, tricky way back. Starting at about 10:20, we began retracing our route, for the most part. Surprisingly, the route finding was a bit more challenging on the way down, since we'd been improvising on the ascent. We used several groups coming up as quasi cairns.
About 20 minutes below the summit, I heard, "Hey, Matt" coming from down below. I looked to see Todd, a raft guide from Aspen, whom I'd met atop Holy Cross on the same day I met the other Matt. Small world, great world. We said "hi," and kept moving on.
Once we got back to the ridge, it was break time again. Lurking in the back of everyone's heads was the specter of the slope of death. Hurry? Who, us? So, we moped around, took more pics, and then... We were ambushed by a crazy goat who leaped from above through the group:

(photo by Jaime)

After that, we had no choice. . It was time for the agonizingly slow, treacherous descent back to Maroon Creek. On the way up, we'd spied a different route that ostensibly offered a less sketchy path downward. Upon further review, it seemed a toss up to me, but we gave it a shot, and my attention was soon fully captured by the need to make it down in one piece.

On the descent

(photo by Jaime)

Even though Jaime, Anthony, and I still had to break camp and pack the 3.5 miles out, I've never been happier to reach a main trail. All that was missing was a beer back at camp...

While we broke camp, Matt said his goodbyes and headed back to his car, since he was bushed, having summited both Yale and Huron the day before, and with the long drive back to Boulder ahead of him, we all wished him well (see thebeave7's TR of "Dayhiking the Chicago Basin 14ers" for his remaining exploits of the week). Trail runners are not human...
Kevin mentioned that he had cold beer back at the TH, and visions of ribs at the Hickory House became irresistible, so we beat feet back to Maroon Lake for some cold ones, and hit the road as soon as Anthony and Jaime came into view.
Like Maroon Peak and our strong group of climbers, Hickory House did not disappoint. After huge plates of BBQ and several pitchers of 1554, we were all ready to call it a day, and a great one at that!

In comparing the two Bells, I found S. Maroon to be much closer to their reputation for loose rock and tedious route finding. N. Maroon's shorter approach and heavier emphasis on climbing made it more fun, but not necessarily more satisfying. IMO, of all the Elk Range 14ers, only S. Maroon lived up to the hype for terrible rock and difficulty picking a way to the summit. All of them are more fun than I could ever have believed, though, except maybe Conundrum. Find yourself on the summit of either Bell, and you've got something to be proud of--S. Maroon for the sheer amount of effort, preparation, and good fortune it requires, N. Maroon for its excellent scrambling and demands of route finding skill. Either way, you come out a winner.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

scotthsu	looking forward... 8/25/2008 11:07am to hearing about another NM finisher! Although planning is not your thing, got anything special planned for the finisher?
CODave	Sunday 8/25/2008 12:44pm Nice tr, looks like a great day! Looking forward to Sunday.
jeffro	Very nice!! 8/25/2008 5:24pm I really like your perspectives, Matt. Great work this year!
lordhelmut	Good seeing you Matt 8/25/2008 7:08pm In Durango saturday. Too bad you couldn‘t get cross eyed and walk through BK drive throughs across from the Abode Inn, which was just exuding with class and sophistication. Carvers was real solid, loved those IPA‘s. You missed a solid outing on the Coxcomb, the drive in off rt.50 through us all a curve ball with its sublime view of Coxcomb/El Punto/Wetterhorn with sun/forming storm clouds in the background. Oh, and marching up 2800 ft of that crap and then down it in one day is respectable. I think I‘d rather do the traverse blindfolded than go back down that hell. Nice work.
14ergirl	Congrats! 8/30/2008 5:15pm My husband and I were up there yesterday and made it to 12,100 ft kind of where the trail becomes faint and you start using your hands. I am contemplating not doing this one, but your tr fires me up. Thanks for a great report and some inspiration. It leaves me pondering!!
Rockymtnhigh69	Nice! 9/8/2008 5:41pm Matt.. Great job.. I climbed it last Saturday and it sure was a bear!
susanjoypaul	The real home stretch 11/30/2010 5:28pm You're on it! Great job on that very tough mountain, Matt. Excellent weather, stellar company, beer, barbeque - and one of the toughest of the Elks - what a day for you! Really nice report, too - thanks for sharing your day. Colorado Springs awaits your grand finale - the door's open, welcome mat is out, the summit awaits... woo-hoo!
Matt	Thanks, you guys 1/19/2011 3:38am Kiefer & Brian, finding you guys in Durango made my day. Thanks to Brian‘s dad for IPA and green chile + eggs. I await your TRs from what may be the trip of the year. Scott, my mom & grandma are flying in for the finisher this Sunday. Since grandma taught me to hike, it‘s gonna be special in a way I can‘t describe. Dave will be there... Jeff--my thanks and respect extend far beyond what goes in a comment box. Thursday night climbing club this week???? SJP, got any time for a 13er this week?
Kiefer	Almost there... 2/5/2011 12:22am Great write up, Matt! I know you‘ve got oodles of time on your hands but sitting down and writing one of these buggers can be tiresome sometimes! I was wondering when I‘d see something of your exploits in the Elks. Glad you enjoyed the Bells! Looks like a good group and even healthier spirits by everyone to make it an enjoyable climb. You‘ve really been putting the hammer down. Good luck on Sunday!!!! THAT will be a truely special summit. (Good seeing ya over the weekend!)

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