Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk:
You (the person requesting this file download) fully understand mountain climbing ("Activity") involves risks and dangers of serious bodily injury, including permanent disability, paralysis, and death ("Risks") and you fully accept and assume all such risks and all responsibility for losses, costs, and damages you incur as a result of your participation in this Activity.
You acknowledge that information in the file you have chosen to download may not be accurate and may contain errors. You agree to assume all risks when using this information and agree to release and discharge 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and the author(s) of such information (collectively, the "Released Parties").
You hereby discharge the Released Parties from all damages, actions, claims and liabilities of any nature, specifically including, but not limited to, damages, actions, claims and liabilities arising from or related to the negligence of the Released Parties. You further agree to indemnify, hold harmless and defend 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. and each of the other Released Parties from and against any loss, damage, liability and expense, including costs and attorney fees, incurred by 14ers.com, 14ers Inc. or any of the other Released Parties as a result of you using information provided on the 14ers.com or 14ers Inc. websites.
You have read this agreement, fully understand its terms and intend it to be a complete and unconditional release of all liability to the greatest extent allowed by law and agree that if any portion of this agreement is held to be invalid the balance, notwithstanding, shall continue in full force and effect.
By clicking "OK" you agree to these terms. If you DO NOT agree, click "Cancel"...
Peak(s): |
"Sunlight Spire" - 13,996 feet
|
Date Posted: |
09/06/2009 |
Modified: |
09/13/2009 |
Date Climbed: |
09/04/2009 |
Author: |
PKelley |
Sunlight Spire |
It is late, but I wanted to extend a brief trip report of my ascent of Sunlight Spire on Friday, September 4, 2009. I will expand this report with photographs and a fuller description of my itinerary in the next few days.
As of right now, simply put, the last trip report by mtsuji indicated that the Spire goes free at .10a, with no move harder than .9+. I have to disagree. I believe that the Spire goes free at .10+, with the grade possibly being even harder due to elevation. I summited the Spire, but not without hanging at about 15 feet into the crack, and frequently thereafter. I did combine the two pitches into one, but don't think that made any difference on the outcome of my climb. I pulled on a lot of gear in getting to the top after that point. I wouldn't even call it French-Free. Very poor style in my opinion.
My lungs and forearms were burning as I thrashed my way to the top. If you go to Chicago Basin with the intent to climb the Spire, and you don't flash .10+ regularly (particularly at high altitude), I would plan on aiding it to ensure success. Additionally, I would like to mention that it is not a pure hand crack, but rather a crack that undulates considerably between wide hands (cups) and finger locks, with several moves of difficult thin hands in between. The sinker hand jams are sometimes 4-5 feet apart, with crappy feet for the upper 75% of the route. The severe left-angling nature of the route makes footwork difficult, and your right foot jams very unsupportive for upward progress while free-climbing.
Additionally, be prepared to leave a nice #3 or #3.5 Camalot at the top to make the summit anchor truly safe. As of right now, there is a 1960's vintage 1/4 inch hex-cap screw bolt with junk hanger, a rusted large angle pin that you can lift out of its placement with your hand, and a green (#5 or #6?) Lowe Tricam. The Tricam is in a bomber placement, but the tip of the Tricam sling that you clip is severely sun-bleached and deteriorated.
I would have done more to the top to the anchor, but it was snowing by the time I made the summit, and it looked like lightning was eminent. The weather this week has been strange in the San Juans, with the Mexican hurricane playing games late in the mornings, by 11:00 a.m.
More to follow in the next few days.
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
|
Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.
Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.