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We decided that we wanted to get in one last challeging scramble before we started working on our couloir climbs that we've been planning for this spring. This nice class 3/4 ridge of Bancroft turned out to be the perfect choice.
Tony and I started up Stewart Road at about 6:30. The start of the road is still undrivable even though all in all about half of the road is completely dry. The morning started out nice and calm and then the wind started to pick up.
We were thinking is was going to be one long windy day on this exposed ridge, but by the time we reached the start of it the wind had completely stopped.
Climbing the first part of the ridge
Crossing the first of many knife-edged, snow covered parts of the ridge
Looking down from one of the knife edges gives you an idea of the steepness
Checking out what lays ahead
We reached the notch a lot sooner then I had expected. We decided to take a quick break before the rappel and just as we did two other groups came up from behind. The secound group was nice enough to let us jump on there rope to rap down istead of me dealing with ours.
Thanks again
Rapping into the notch
We didn't bring any pro for the 5.2 climb out. We decided that we would take the Class 4 option to the right. There was really only one difficult move for this, right at the begining. After that you could make the climb out a class 4 or if you wanted to, you can even go just a little bit further around and it becomes just a steep class 2 to regain the ridge.
Once back on the ridge things got a lot more interesting. We had a couple more knife edges and quite a few class 4 moves that were made a little tricky by wet and snow covered rock.
Looking back down the ridge from about 3/4 the way up
More fun scambling
From here we only had one class 4 move and the rest was easy class 2/3 to the summit
And here comes the summit
The two of us on top
Spring time descents are always fun since you can enjoy a nice glissade
The famous side view of the notch
We made it back to the car right at 3:30 for a perfect 9 hour day
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Hey it was nice meeting you guys along the way and glad to let you two jump onto our rope for the repel. Your pictures did a really good job of capturing the steepness of the route. Keep me in mind if you all hit up the Pacific North couloir sometime this spring. - Shawn
That was a fun route and it cool meeting you. We don‘t have any solid plans yet for the North couloir, but when we do I‘ll let you know for sure.
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