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Resolved to get Mt Wilson before it snows, and after our defeat the week before, Mark and I met Zach in Avon and rushed to Navajo Lake. We made camp a bit after sunset and were up and hiking b4 sunrise.
Again up into the basin we hiked towards Gladstone Peak, the trail is well cairned and soon we started the scrambling.
Here's a look of the N slope route on Mt Wilson. The difficulty stays at 2+ maybe a few 3 moves, rock is very nice for the San Juans.
We scrambled up the edge of the rocks and found the gully that meets the ridge, is was a little loose but ok on the sides.
The temptation to climb the small peak NE of Wilson was too great to resist. It was a good choice we were treated to astounding views of Lizard Head, Gladstone Peak, and Mt Wilson.
Quickly down-climbing to the top of the gully it was a short scramble to the notch and then up the final small ridge to Mt Wilson's Summit. I was pumped and soared to the top!
What a better day to be on Mt Wilson's summit! Worth the drive and hike in again to experience the San Juans one more time this summer!
I almost felt like climbing down was easier for once, you can kind of hug the crux and lower.
Back to the notch you turn left and descend the south side of the ridge.
We tried to climb directly on the ridge too early and were forced to backtrack down and around. Unfortunately we choose to stay too low for too long and missed the "coxcomb". The scrambling lower on the south side of the ridge was class 2+ but we felt like we missed alot of the glory and exposure that the ridge directly here would have provided.
After regaining the ridge the climbing became much more exposed and exciting, the sky was clear the temp just right it was an amazing day to traverse! A short downclimb was needed to pass some towers.
Cautiously we continued and at one point we should have climbed up and over we went around and were forced to rappel.
The rope wouldn't pull through so Zach was stuck with the traversing downclimb, after I set a 6 piece anchor he made it safely across. We realized here on the other side it would've been best to stay on the ridge.
After this we found the Standard gully and Mark and I knew the rest of the route to El Diente From our rainy snowy experience the week prior. We traversed on the south side to the final gully and had a much better time with everything in its dryness.
Up to the top, here's a direct comparison from the week before.
Bam! El Diente down.
Mark and I had to look down to try and see what we climbed in the fog and snow.
One more Bear shot!
This is the ledge after the notch and before the final gully that goes slightly down the south side.
The base of the N gully a horrendous downclimb like a horrifying shooting gallery, at least it was mainly dry this time.
We we're back to camp and out to the car an hour after sunset. We drove quickly back to Avon where I blew out a tire at 77mph and was the most scared of the trip.
That pretty much all of the 14ers for this climbing bear what a great way to end the summer!
Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
Great shots- this made the traverse look a lot more serious than it felt when I went across the other direction on Sept. 4. We had a similar experience- tried on week, weathered off, and returned two weeks later to great weather and a great day. Congratulations.
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