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Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby 12ersRule » Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:32 pm

crossfitter wrote:With practice and a bit of skill, you can probably get up to about 5.5 on some routes without significant use of hands required (mostly grabbing jugs for balance)



I did that at a bar recently and they threw me out.

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby crossfitter » Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:10 pm

49ersRule wrote:
crossfitter wrote:With practice and a bit of skill, you can probably get up to about 5.5 on some routes without significant use of hands required (mostly grabbing jugs for balance)



I did that at a bar recently and they threw me out.


I did warn you that it requires practice and skill. With a little luck you might even pull it off on a 9 or 10 someday
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- Alpinism and mountaineering are not restricted to 14,000 foot mountains
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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby justiner » Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:55 pm

Ring dips/pushups, overhead squats, dumbell/kettlebell presses, turkish getups are all good options.


If those are a little advanced, there's some exercises you can do with a thera‑band and a door, to get you started ;)

I've done a good number on my shoulder, and it finally protested bouldering the other night. It was on a INT problem, nothing overhanging. Just fell wrong. Always remember the PT ;)
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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby Tory Wells » Fri Feb 01, 2013 6:21 pm

RoanMtnMan wrote:There are some days I wish Fred Beckey was on this site. Last I saw him he was 87 or 88 and was waiting in Talkeetna for a flight into the Ruth Gorge to put up a few more first ascents with a group of 40 somethings. Made me feel like a young whippersnapper.

He just turned 90 and still going strong.
http://www.thecleanestline.com/2013/01/happy-90th-birthday-to-the-master-fred-beckey.html
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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby Marmot72 » Fri Feb 01, 2013 6:24 pm

I can't claim to be a good climber, but I think its misleading to make it seem easy to get up 5.5 routes without significant use of hands. True, legs do must of the work, but arms are important. And how many people get up little bear or Wilson peak without a lot of hand holds? Let's just not sand bag this concern.

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby DaveSwink » Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:25 pm

Marmot72 wrote:I think its misleading to make it seem easy to get up 5.5 routes without significant use of hands.


I think crossfitter was suggesting that with good technique, significant use of the hands is not required on 5.5. With good foot positioning and balance, the hands can be used almost exclusively to hold you against the wall while the legs and core do most of the lifting of the body weight. A good way to practice for better foot/leg technique on easy gym routes is to climb with straight arms, not allowing the arms to do any lifting. That practice technique is just to force better use of your feet/legs. You wouldn't want to actually climb with straight arms, of course. :-D

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby RoanMtnMan » Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:44 pm

Tory Wells wrote:
RoanMtnMan wrote:There are some days I wish Fred Beckey was on this site. Last I saw him he was 87 or 88 and was waiting in Talkeetna for a flight into the Ruth Gorge to put up a few more first ascents with a group of 40 somethings. Made me feel like a young whippersnapper.

He just turned 90 and still going strong.
http://www.thecleanestline.com/2013/01/happy-90th-birthday-to-the-master-fred-beckey.html


Yep it was a warm 2010 day in AK when he laid in the grass at the airstrip throwing out incredible stories and never ceasing to comment about the young ladies passing by. They don't make a tougher model than Fred. This thread just made me reflect on what we have become. Society has changed us I guess. They sure don't make too many Fred Beckeys anymore. I hope the OP's 40yr old shoulder is okay for some class 3. I think old Fred put up 4 pitches of water ice with a dislocated shoulder in AK's fury once or twice, back in the 60s. Not sure if he was on a crossfit program or not. Probably not though, since he was broke. I guess the advice in my comments is to just get out there and see what happens, take necessary precautions, but in the end there is no better way to figure it out than doing.
Always follow the 7 P's. Proper Planning & Preparation, Prevents Piss-Poor Performance.

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby pvnisher » Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:29 am

DaveSwink wrote:A good way to practice for better foot/leg technique on easy gym routes is to climb with straight arms, not allowing the arms to do any lifting.


I also occassionally will climb a very easy route with my hands in fists. Hands for balance but no grabbing and pulling.

Either way, I still say that if you find yourself reaching overhead and pulling whilst on a standard 14er, you are off-route.

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby JROSKA » Sat Feb 02, 2013 1:08 am

Thanks for all of the responses.

As I said in the original post, in the Class 2+ peaks I've done, I have seen no evidence that I have to limit myself to just Class 2 "hiking". I can understand the general point that a few of you have made that there are some very effective ways to make the lower body do most of the work, while just using the upper body for stability. It's encouraging to hear that most (if not all) of the 14er standard routes should be attainable for me. It seems like I'm capable of more than I think up there. Finally, @roanmtnman, I see your point about "you just have to do it". I can see how my post would have come off like, "Should I do this / shouldn't I do it / maybe I can't do it". It even irritates me when I read it back that way. I suppose, the problem is, it's that time of year when I start looking ahead to the summer, and probably over-thinking and obsessing just a bit. This post is part of my process of "taking precautions", but I do agree with you that the only sure-fire way to test someone's limits is to get up there and try something.

- Jeff R

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby TallGrass » Sat Feb 02, 2013 2:16 am

pvnisher wrote:You should be able to hike all of the 14ers without lifting your arms above your chest. ... If you are confronted by something that will require you to lift over your head and pull yourself up, you are off-route. 8)

Doing that sure would make the "chimney" crux of North Maroon more interesting. There are also several parts in NM's second gulley. Same could be said for Pyramid. Further, don't just think about climbing, think about down-climbing where in many cases you could be lowering yourself by doing a dip.
Image Self-portrait, honest! :-"
Image Image Shot this one this summer.
Image There's all this loose rock on the "class 3 alternate" to get around the chimney... uh, no thanks.
Image And even before the gulleys there's this fun little bit where reaching above your shoulders is a good idea.
Not sure if I'll do more 14ers. The trip reports are too tiring. :wink:

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby bonehead » Sat Feb 02, 2013 2:07 pm

Fred Beckey books have found a new home.
Pat.
Us older climbers have lots of material
to contribute to up and coming climbers.
Pile On!
Last edited by bonehead on Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Upper body strength / Class 3 and 4

Postby Gahugafuga » Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:16 pm

bonehead wrote:Fred Beckey has been a mountaineering hero
of mine since I was about 15.
I have quite a few of his books,
two of which are gathering dust and
will probably never be of use to me again.
(except lots of good memories)
Two volume Cascade Alpine Guide.
Covers Washington state.
(second printing 1979)
Cost me $13.95 each at REI back in the day.

Anyone interested?
Sell, trade;
donate to an appropriate library or climbing org.
Or I'll flat ass give them to a young, ambitious climber.
Reply here or PM me
Pat.
I also have many guide books to California and Canada,
places where I might not get a chance to climb again.
These books all need new homes.
Plenty of life left in them for those who wish to explore.


That's the most beautiful poem about Fred Beckey I've ever read.

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