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Mount Shasta

14ers in California and Washington state or any other peak in the USA
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Mount Shasta

Postby nyker » Mon Mar 18, 2013 1:51 pm

For those who have climbed Shasta, what are the date ranges to get a good snow climb up there in decent consolidated snow conditions?
I know it depends on the year's snowfall, etc, but it appears early May-mid July are rough bookend dates, but am open to hearing any thoughts.

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby apasquel » Mon Mar 18, 2013 2:20 pm

nyker...I am climbing Shasta in mid June. Let me know if you are going to be in area around same time.

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby mfariss44 » Mon Mar 18, 2013 2:49 pm

We climbed the Avalanche Gulch route in late June 2009 and snow conditions were excellent. We were able to put crampons on a little below the base camp at Helen Lake and kept them on until the summit.

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby nyker » Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:49 pm

ok, cool thanks guys. Apasquel, I will let you know if our scheduling can match up!

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby yedi » Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:57 am

Anyone done (or doing) the Cascade Gulch route? I'm thinking of doing Shasta next summer and would like to do Shastina as well. Seems like Cascade Gulch is the standard route for tagging both, but I'm wondering how sketchy that traverse is between the Whitney Glacier bergschrund and the West Ridge.

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby mountainramble » Thu Mar 21, 2013 1:03 pm

Hidden Valley is the perfect camp for both Shastina and Shasta. The climb up the Whitney Headwall is very steep and needs to be protected. If you do not plan to bring tech. gear you can simply rejoin the West Face Route after your Shastina Climb. I was up there last week and it is nice!

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby yedi » Thu Mar 21, 2013 1:29 pm

mountainramble wrote:Hidden Valley is the perfect camp for both Shastina and Shasta. The climb up the Whitney Headwall is very steep and needs to be protected. If you do not plan to bring tech. gear you can simply rejoin the West Face Route after your Shastina Climb. I was up there last week and it is nice!


Thanks, mountainramble. So you'd just start up from the saddle between the two peaks and then stay south of the West Ridge instead of north of it?

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby mountainramble » Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:56 am

Yes, traversing under the crumbled cliff ban that separates it from the Whitney brings you to several small gullies that connect at the top with the "West Face" Route. It is easier to traverse lower first then climb than it is to work your way through the crumbled scree mess that makes-up the ridge proper. All of this is visible from camp in Hidden Valley (which has open water in spring). I tried to send a photo of that exact climb from last week but the file is too big and my computer skills are too small.

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby yedi » Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:28 pm

Thanks so much. Very helpful info.

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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby nyker » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:40 pm

Hi all, I wanted to revisit this thread again!

I'd really like to climb Shasta this year - targeting late May or possibly late June (if that's not too late for a good snow climb).

For those who have climbed it, how does the Avalanche Gulch route (more popular) differ vs the West Face?


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Re: Mount Shasta

Postby nsaladin » Mon Feb 17, 2014 5:53 pm

Trying to talk my GF into this as her first 14er. Her name is Shasta...

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