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Climbing in Arkansas

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Climbing in Arkansas

Postby apasquel » Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:16 pm

Hey guys, just spend some time at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (HCR)...it was fantastic...anyways, it's awesome sandstone and I know many of you on this site are sport climbers as well as 14er freaks like me. If you guys are in the region, these are some of the pics of HCR:

http://seekingtheburningbush.blogspot.com/

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby rkalsbeek » Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:44 pm

Thanks for sharing this!!! I've been getting pressure from my company to move to Arkansas - it is great to see that there is some good sport climbing there. One of the major reasons I wouldn't want to move is the lack of mountaineering and climbing.

If you (or anyone else) have more suggestions for good places to climb in Arkansas, I'm all ears.
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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby apasquel » Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:55 pm

rkalsbeek wrote:Thanks for sharing this!!! I've been getting pressure from my company to move to Arkansas - it is great to see that there is some good sport climbing there. One of the major reasons I wouldn't want to move is the lack of mountaineering and climbing.

If you (or anyone else) have more suggestions for good places to climb in Arkansas, I'm all ears.


Man...there is ton of rock in Arkansas, and potential for much much more. This state has not been whored out...the rock quality is awesome in most places.

1) Biggest and Best: HCR..more than 300 routes from 5.easy to 5.14. Infinite bouldering. There is new guide book coming out for this place because lines have been added to HCR.
2) Mt. Magazine is the place to go if your a trad climber...tons of lengthy routes there...
3) Sam's Throne
4) The Fern is growing
5) Lake Lincoln is exploding...problems and routes have tripled since 08
6) Shepard Springs has about 50 routes...mixed climbing
and about 5-6 other climbing areas that boast anywhere from 50 to 100 routes each.

All of Western Arkansas is rocky...either its the Ouchitas or the Ozarks...sandstone is everywhere...there is so much to climb, essentially a lifetime. Not to mention there are tons of places in the Ozarks on private property that I knoe the access climb is trying to work with...it's just a matter of time!!!!

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby rkalsbeek » Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:24 am

AWESOME! thanks for all of the tips. Next time I'm out there I'll have to bring my climbing gear! I would love to find some rock that hasn't been climbed by every single person in the sport. While I love Colorado, it can be tough to find seclusion.
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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby skerryjones » Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:41 pm

Arkansas is where I started climbing in the mid-late 90s. Sam's Throne and Cave Creek are my favorites. Horseshoe has its good aspects, but has really become too crowded since about 2004. Stack Rock and Shepherd Springs are good, but have tons of poison ivy.

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby skerryjones » Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:46 pm

With the exception of Mt. Magazine, most of the sandstone can be friable if it's not dry (the Magazine stuff is harder and doesn't seem as porous). If it's sunny, it usually dries pretty quickly, though.

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby skerryjones » Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:48 pm

Depending where you might move in Arkansas, there is good granite in Oklahoma, around Lawton (Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge) and Altus (Quartz Mountain State Park).

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby Kent McLemore » Wed Mar 20, 2013 4:52 am

Check out http://www.fixedpin.com/Rock_Climbing_Arkansas.html by my friend Cole Fennel.
rkalsbeek, to what part of Arkansas might you be moving?
"Throw a loaf of bread and a pound of tea in an old sack and jump over the back fence." - John Muir

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby rkalsbeek » Wed Mar 20, 2013 8:59 am

Right on, thanks everyone.

Not sure if I'll be moving yet or anytime soon, but I work for a CPG who supplies to Walmart.... So the Bentonville/Fayateville area, so from your profile looks like close to you!
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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby apasquel » Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:38 am

Kent McLemore wrote:Check out http://www.fixedpin.com/Rock_Climbing_Arkansas.html by my friend Cole Fennel.
rkalsbeek, to what part of Arkansas might you be moving?


This is the guidebook I use and its awesome...great info. The guidebook is out of print right now...my understanding is 2nd edition is suppose to come out by fall of this year. If you move to Fayeteville, you are within 2 hours drive of everything...

Wichitas are great place in OK...I live in DFW and often visit hee since it's with 3 hour drive. Most of it is trad...but there are some bolted lines. Typically anything 5.11 or harder will be bolted...

I agree, HCR is crowded...and its crowded the times ago...like holidays, or breaks, etc. But I live 7 hrs form here and cant just go on a whim...but if you go during the middle of the week, or during offseason...it can feel like you have the place to yourself.

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby apasquel » Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:23 am

Kent McLemore wrote:Check out http://www.fixedpin.com/Rock_Climbing_Arkansas.html by my friend Cole Fennel.
rkalsbeek, to what part of Arkansas might you be moving?


...talking about guide books...is there a good guide book for climbing in the Telluride area? I have a bouldering guide...looking for sport climbing.

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Re: Climbing in Arkansas

Postby Robzilla » Thu Mar 21, 2013 8:53 am

I'm in southwest Missouri, about two hours from Fayetteville. Northwest Arkansas is definitely full of good climbing. HCR does get crowded on weekends, but it's big enough that there's always been something open. And it's super cheap to camp and climb. There's a local outdoor/climbing shop here in Springfield, Dynamic Earth, they're staffed by a lot of climbers that can tell you more out of the way places if you call or email. Some of them are occasionally Colorado transplants. There's bouldering here and there around NWA and SWMO that gets discovered just randomly out in the woods, there's Sam's Throne and Cave Creek nearby. And I understand that there is a big route in the area of Mt. Judea called Red Rock. It's on private property, I've only seen pictures, but the staff at HCR apparently has an in with the owner and you can get to it with some of their climbers. And the Ouachitas and Wichita Mountain Refuge are full of good stuff too, as someone has mentioned. They'll be within reach from that corner of the state. One of my favorite hikes of all times was in the Ouchitas.

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