Hi all,
I am looking for a partner to climb North Palisade and Starlight peaks outside of Bishop sometime in late May/early June via the Palisade Glacier/U Notch route. this includes a 2 pitch 5.6 rock climb exiting the notch. it is then a class 3/4 scramble to the summit, and then hauling over to nearby Starlight Peak, which is 5.8 smear to the top. these two peaks are the crown gems of California's 14ers (which would include Whitney's east face as well I imagine). These last two summits will complete my California 14er list. I am an intermediate rock climber with lots of mountaineering experience. I am by no means a pro, but capable enough. message me for more info.
cheers,
dan
North Palisade, CA partner
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hansolo35
- Posts: 64
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Re: North Palisade, CA partner
Hey Dan,
Back in the early 90's I climbed the U-Notch couloir via the route you are planning. Just a few tips for the glossed over sections of the route description. The couloir was very straight forward, as was the 5.6 chimney to the top of the ridge. My partner and I ditched our ropes and alpine/rock gear at the top of the 5.6 since the remainder was only 3rd/4th class. However, that 3rd/4th class really seemed 5th class in many places, especially the boulder moves to reach the true summit of North Palisade. We both led 5.10a and felt that the final moves were 5.9ish. Due to the serious exposure we would have done them roped, but couldn't since we had ditched the ropes and gear at the start of the traverse. It was a rather spicy summit to bag without ropes so be forewarned. We didn't do Starlight Peak, but climbing in the Palisades is awesome! Wait till you see Temple Crag and all the long rock climbing routes on that!
Enjoy your trip,
Pat
Back in the early 90's I climbed the U-Notch couloir via the route you are planning. Just a few tips for the glossed over sections of the route description. The couloir was very straight forward, as was the 5.6 chimney to the top of the ridge. My partner and I ditched our ropes and alpine/rock gear at the top of the 5.6 since the remainder was only 3rd/4th class. However, that 3rd/4th class really seemed 5th class in many places, especially the boulder moves to reach the true summit of North Palisade. We both led 5.10a and felt that the final moves were 5.9ish. Due to the serious exposure we would have done them roped, but couldn't since we had ditched the ropes and gear at the start of the traverse. It was a rather spicy summit to bag without ropes so be forewarned. We didn't do Starlight Peak, but climbing in the Palisades is awesome! Wait till you see Temple Crag and all the long rock climbing routes on that!
Enjoy your trip,
Pat
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Naren
- Posts: 1
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Re: North Palisade, CA partner
Hi there we are looking at doing the U notch in mid april, if that will work for you, can you send me your experience leading ice/ rock?
We are a party of three and a group of four will be nice
Cheers,
Naren
We are a party of three and a group of four will be nice
Cheers,
Naren
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bj
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Re: North Palisade, CA partner
A) I hope you know you need permits for overnight trips in this area?
B) caverdude is confusing North Pal with another peak, or he was way off route. After the 5.6 pitches, it's class 2/3 to the summit.
C) Don't underestimate the amount of time or effort you'll need to get to Starlight. The traverse is not straightforward or easy. The summit block (the Milk Bottle) is easy climbing but no pro until you can sling the top with a double sling. Do not rely on the bolt to rap off. It was bad a few years ago when I climbed it last. Hopefully the bolt will be replaced this summer. If you plan to descend the Clyde Couloir to get back to camp you'll need to read up on the Starlight Arete route and may need double ropes for the last rap back onto the glacier. I did both times I've been on it.
D) This has been a poor snow year for California and the berg may be hard to get past even early in the season.
Good luck! I'm going after Starlight again in June.
B) caverdude is confusing North Pal with another peak, or he was way off route. After the 5.6 pitches, it's class 2/3 to the summit.
C) Don't underestimate the amount of time or effort you'll need to get to Starlight. The traverse is not straightforward or easy. The summit block (the Milk Bottle) is easy climbing but no pro until you can sling the top with a double sling. Do not rely on the bolt to rap off. It was bad a few years ago when I climbed it last. Hopefully the bolt will be replaced this summer. If you plan to descend the Clyde Couloir to get back to camp you'll need to read up on the Starlight Arete route and may need double ropes for the last rap back onto the glacier. I did both times I've been on it.
D) This has been a poor snow year for California and the berg may be hard to get past even early in the season.
Good luck! I'm going after Starlight again in June.
Last edited by bj on Wed Mar 26, 2014 10:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just a drinker with a climbing problem..
Re: North Palisade, CA partner
Sorry BJ,
but I did not confuse North Pal with another peak. The traverse over to North Pal was definitely more than class 2. Granted it has been a long time since I climbed it, but my partner and I climbed North Pal. I guess we all have different reference levels for difficulty.
but I did not confuse North Pal with another peak. The traverse over to North Pal was definitely more than class 2. Granted it has been a long time since I climbed it, but my partner and I climbed North Pal. I guess we all have different reference levels for difficulty.
