Denali Recommendations?

[thespoonybard]

I am looking to line up a trip to attempt Denali in 2015. I am starting to plan early to allow myself some time to recoup the necessary funding.

I have climbed Aconcagua self supported while having used a commercial service when traveling to Nepal (Island Peak). Right now, my thoughts are leaning more toward a commercial application for this trip as well. The primary reason being that I am not sure what sort of commitment I may observe from any additional parties.

Though I would be very interested in the West Rib, I would not feel comfortable with a team I had not previously climbed with. SO, that leaves me with the ever so popular walk up the standard route (West Buttress).

Does anyone have any experience with a commercial service there in in Alaska? Thank you in advance for any feedback/comments!

[I Man]

You can climb Denali for less than $2k a person or you can pay a guide for almost 4 times that. If money is any sort of concern, don't waste it and climb on your own for an affordable and rewarding experience.

[AndyJB444]

For as much as people poopoo the west buttress route, its actually a great climb - just do yourself a favor and take skis.

Combine the logistical and expedition experience from the Aconcagua climb with the technical skills (glacial travel, fixed line experience, etc.) from Island Peak and you have the skills right there.

So why waste your time and money with a guide?

[Teresa Gergen]

Mountain Trip out of Ophir, hands down, if you go with a guide.

[shearmodulus]

I had a fantastic experience with Alpine Ascents.

They cost a bit more, but the service was worth every penny, in my opinion. They cook BIG for you. They also have a great support staff in Talkeetna. Every single aspect of that trip was dialed in to perfection.

Ran into some Mountain Trip folks on the way down. Scuttlebutt is that they may lose their Denali License.

RMI horror stories abound as well. Like, "Well, if you're going to stop climbing, i'm going to put you in your sleeping bag and confiscate your boots so you can't walk out on your own," kind of stories.

The only thing I would have done differently is try to have a ski supported trip, but it's incredibly hard to assemble a group of people who are realistic about their skiing ability. It would have made the return down the glacier much faster, for sure.

And go earlier in the season. If you go later (mid-June or July) you run the risk of some serious weather. The early season is drier, but colder. You're more likely to get dumped on later in the season because the weather finally warms up enough for it to snow.

The NOLS group that was there later on in the summer of 2013 had to turn around at the Football Field because of lightning. The 2011 season had a low success rate due to extreme snow and avalanche hazards (and deaths on Motorcycle hill, near 11,500).

[Gabriel]

I recommend that you climb it on your own merit, not with a guided trip. Look for climbing partners or apply for a solo permit early and show up at basecamp ready to go and you can probably hitch a ride on a rope.

Good luck

[thespoonybard]

Thanks for the recommendations. I will admit that the monetary angle of a self supported trip is DEFINATELY appealing.

[climbing_rob]

Just one other opinion: If you attempt Denali unguided, please know what you are doing, meaning learn safe glaciated terrain travel, and do not go Solo. I did climb Denali unguided, twice actually, but have gone through all of the training and have climbed other heavily glaciated peaks. After all the glaciers I've crossed safely, I did fall right into a nice completely invisible crevasse on Denali. My rope team saved me from significant injury. Please travel roped on Denali. Again, just one opinion.

[uwe]

Hi,
Go for it.
Going with a self-guided team is a cool way to go.
West Buttress is great, especially if things are going your way.
Rib is certainly a step up and worthy.
I put together a trip in 2011 and all went well for us. (Washburn/West Buttress Route)
There was a death at high camp, 3 or 4 killed prior to our arrival, and we saw three chopper rescues of 3 climbers in various states of HACE, frostbite above 18K. A no joke mountain. To keep your toes, you gotta be on 'em 24/7 and 360. No mistakes and a lot of patience. Good weather helps the most.
I did see soloists, and it can be done. But boy...if you fall into a crevasse...or worse. No Help!

If you would like my program particulars, etc. send a PM.
Also, USAKeller has a great post on her trip in 2013.

Best of luck!

[thespoonybard]

If you attempt Denali unguided, please know what you are doing, meaning learn safe glaciated terrain travel, and do not go Solo ... Again, just one opinion.

Regarding above quoted text, climbing rob makes a very good point, and one in which I completely agree! I have no desire to solo this particular mountain. Anymore, climbs seem much more enjoyable when I have someone to experience it with (both the good and the bad parts).

As far as solo glacier crossing go I had read an article where the author had pulled an extension ladder behind him, with the hope that if he had fallen through, the ladder would essentially, slide "over" the crevasse and (hopefully) catch to arrest him. I remember thinking that was actually creative. However, nothing compares to being roped up to something (someone) who can actually think and react in critical situations.

As you may know, the primary reason I was considering a commercial trip was that I was not sure of the interest level of additional members/friends here in the community or in RL. Following my initial post, I have actually had a small amount of interest from a couple members. I need to get back to a few people. You never know, we may be able to pull off another unsupported 14er.com Denali attempt!

I appreciate all of the information and support thus far. CHEERS!

[speth]

They talk about something similar to this setup in Art Davidson's Minus 148.

[shearmodulus]

True story, or so I'm told:

A Denali climber travling on the glacier roped up punches through. Big whipper. Team arrests, he's dangling from the rope. Hears, "Um, a little help?" A soloist had fallen in, couldn't climb out, and had basically given up.

As told by Park Rangers.

If you MUST travel solo, strongly encourage you to travel reverse-cycle on the Kahiltna. Keep glacier hazard to a minimum during the colder times of day. Plenty of daylight, so that's not a problem...