Training for Rainier
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DoctorBreaks
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Training for Rainier
Hey everyone, I am interested in climbing Rainier in the summer of 2016. Anyone have any advice on what I can do to prepare for the climb? I know the standard route disappointment cleaver is around 9k feet of gain, so my question is how to prepare aside from increasing my physical endurance. I am taking an Avy workshop that Aspen Mountain Rescue is doing in Aspen this January. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
Re: Training for Rainier
Guided:
Just be in shape.
Unguided:
Even though there is a usually a well beaten path in the summer under good conditions, I'd highly recommend knowing basic iceaxe skills, belay/rope skills, and crevasse rescue skills. Many get along without crevasse rescue skills, but they should be standard for any glacier travel, even though you will hopefully never need to use them in real life.
Just be in shape.
Unguided:
Even though there is a usually a well beaten path in the summer under good conditions, I'd highly recommend knowing basic iceaxe skills, belay/rope skills, and crevasse rescue skills. Many get along without crevasse rescue skills, but they should be standard for any glacier travel, even though you will hopefully never need to use them in real life.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
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DoctorBreaks
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Re: Training for Rainier
Awesome! Definitely want to do it unguided. How does someone go about learning things like crevasse rescue? I really want to climb in the Cascades and other glaciers up in the NW but I know they are very different from the mountains I climb here in CO.Scott P wrote:Guided:
Just be in shape.
Unguided:
Even though there is a usually a well beaten path in the summer under good conditions, I'd highly recommend knowing basic iceaxe skills, belay/rope skills, and crevasse rescue skills. Many get along without crevasse rescue skills, but they should be standard for any glacier travel, even though you will hopefully never need to use them in real life.
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-
mtgirl
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Re: Training for Rainier
You'll get a ton of information if you search for "training for Rainier" in the forum. You may not get a ton of responses here, because it's been discussed so many times.
"Life is not measured by the breaths you take, but by the moments that take your breath away."
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DoctorBreaks
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- Joined: 6/3/2014
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Re: Training for Rainier
Will do! Thanksmtgirl wrote:You'll get a ton of information if you search for "training for Rainier" in the forum. You may not get a ton of responses here, because it's been discussed so many times.
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-
Brandonasmith10
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 9/17/2014
- 14ers: 2 1
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Training for Rainier
RMI and IMG both offer crevasse rescue courses. You could go up and take one a day or 2 before your climb. I took IMGs 2 day course when I was living in Portlans, and really enojoyed it.DoctorBreaks wrote:Scott P wrote:Guided:
Just be in shape.
Unguided:
Even though there is a usually a well beaten path in the summer under good conditions, I'd highly recommend knowing basic iceaxe skills, belay/rope skills, and crevasse rescue skills. Many get along without crevasse rescue skills, but they should be standard for any glacier travel, even though you will hopefully never need to use them in real life.
Awesome! Definitely want to do it unguided. How does someone go about learning things like crevasse rescue? I really want to climb in the Cascades and other glaciers up in the NW but I know they are very different from the mountains I climb here in CO.
Also, you could read up on the skills in Freedom of the Hills, and practice setting up the pulleys systems and anchors locally. Just need a good, snowy hill.
As mentioned above, make sure your ice axe, crampon,
Anchor and rope skills are sharp. It is definitely a well trodden path up the DC in summer.
If you're planning on staying in the muir shelter, bring ear plugs and an eye mask. If you're in really good shape (and there is a good weather window) the climb can be done in a single push from paradise. I've done it this way, and you can lighten your load by leaving the overnight gear. I recommend starting it this way around 6 or 7pm. Avoid the heat of the day when slogging to camp muir. Reach muir by midnight, regroup and fuel up, then head to the summit.
If you over pack one thing, let it be water and food. The slog to muir is a butt kicker. I also bring a titanium pot, 4oz fuel and micro rocket stove to the summit in case I need extra water.
Let me know if I can offer up any additional advice. I love Rainier, it's an amazing mountain, and really rewarding climb.
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SkaredShtles
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Re: Training for Rainier
Take a class from a guide organization...DoctorBreaks wrote:<snip>
Awesome! Definitely want to do it unguided. How does someone go about learning things like crevasse rescue?
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DoctorBreaks
- Posts: 581
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Re: Training for Rainier
RMI and IMG both offer crevasse rescue courses. You could go up and take one a day or 2 before your climb. I took IMGs 2 day course when I was living in Portlans, and really enojoyed it.
Also, you could read up on the skills in Freedom of the Hills, and practice setting up the pulleys systems and anchors locally. Just need a good, snowy hill.
As mentioned above, make sure your ice axe, crampon,
Anchor and rope skills are sharp. It is definitely a well trodden path up the DC in summer.
If you're planning on staying in the muir shelter, bring ear plugs and an eye mask. If you're in really good shape (and there is a good weather window) the climb can be done in a single push from paradise. I've done it this way, and you can lighten your load by leaving the overnight gear. I recommend starting it this way around 6 or 7pm. Avoid the heat of the day when slogging to camp muir. Reach muir by midnight, regroup and fuel up, then head to the summit.
If you over pack one thing, let it be water and food. The slog to muir is a butt kicker. I also bring a titanium pot, 4oz fuel and micro rocket stove to the summit in case I need extra water.
Let me know if I can offer up any additional advice. I love Rainier, it's an amazing mountain, and really rewarding climb.[/quote]
This is great! Thanks Brandon!
Also, you could read up on the skills in Freedom of the Hills, and practice setting up the pulleys systems and anchors locally. Just need a good, snowy hill.
As mentioned above, make sure your ice axe, crampon,
Anchor and rope skills are sharp. It is definitely a well trodden path up the DC in summer.
If you're planning on staying in the muir shelter, bring ear plugs and an eye mask. If you're in really good shape (and there is a good weather window) the climb can be done in a single push from paradise. I've done it this way, and you can lighten your load by leaving the overnight gear. I recommend starting it this way around 6 or 7pm. Avoid the heat of the day when slogging to camp muir. Reach muir by midnight, regroup and fuel up, then head to the summit.
If you over pack one thing, let it be water and food. The slog to muir is a butt kicker. I also bring a titanium pot, 4oz fuel and micro rocket stove to the summit in case I need extra water.
Let me know if I can offer up any additional advice. I love Rainier, it's an amazing mountain, and really rewarding climb.[/quote]
This is great! Thanks Brandon!
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-
Brandonasmith10
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 9/17/2014
- 14ers: 2 1
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Training for Rainier
If you can, obtain your climbing pass and register your party the day before. Overnight spots at Muir fill up quickly on weekends during the climbing season. If you can go mid week, you'll have a much less crowded mountain. If you want "wilderness/expedition" style camping, consider camping at The Flats (assuming there is a low wind forecast).
Don't forget to stop at the copper creek inn (Ashford) for blackberry pie and ice cream after the climb.
Don't forget to stop at the copper creek inn (Ashford) for blackberry pie and ice cream after the climb.
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DoctorBreaks
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Re: Training for Rainier
Mmmm blackberry pie and ice cream. :D If there is anything I won't forget it is that lol..... I was thinking of going earlier in the season. From what I have researched you trade harsher weather for decreased crevasse danger.Brandonasmith10 wrote:If you can, obtain your climbing pass and register your party the day before. Overnight spots at Muir fill up quickly on weekends during the climbing season. If you can go mid week, you'll have a much less crowded mountain. If you want "wilderness/expedition" style camping, consider camping at The Flats (assuming there is a low wind forecast).
Don't forget to stop at the copper creek inn (Ashford) for blackberry pie and ice cream after the climb.
"Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion."
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
-Anatoli Boukreev
Be humble enough to respect the mountain, but confident enough to climb it.
Man cannot remake himself without suffering, for he is both the marble and the sculptor.
Re: Training for Rainier
Here's a link for the Pikes Peak Alpine School. $350 for their two day Crevasse Rescue & Glacier Travel Introduction sounds reasonable...
http://www.pikespeakalpineschool.com/
http://www.pikespeakalpineschool.com/
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Brandonasmith10
- Posts: 48
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Re: Training for Rainier
How early in the season?DoctorBreaks wrote:Mmmm blackberry pie and ice cream. :D If there is anything I won't forget it is that lol..... I was thinking of going earlier in the season. From what I have researched you trade harsher weather for decreased crevasse danger.Brandonasmith10 wrote:If you can, obtain your climbing pass and register your party the day before. Overnight spots at Muir fill up quickly on weekends during the climbing season. If you can go mid week, you'll have a much less crowded mountain. If you want "wilderness/expedition" style camping, consider camping at The Flats (assuming there is a low wind forecast).
Don't forget to stop at the copper creek inn (Ashford) for blackberry pie and ice cream after the climb.
The crevasse danger on the DC route is typically pretty low because the guide companies do such a great job of marking/maintaining the route. Later season (aug-sept/oct) the route can get pretty spicy as the crevasses continue to move and open up. The route can completely collapse, or be a very longmire, winding road up to the top.
