Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

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whitetailbowhunter
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Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

A friend and I are planning a Mt. Shasta summit for April 7-10. I am wondering if anyone has any experience climbing Mt. Shasta, specifically the Casaval Ridge route?

We initially planned to climb avalanche gulch, but it sounds like with the el nino year, avalanche gulch will have too much snow that early in the year. I have spoken with park rangers, mountain guides, etc., but I truly believe you can never prepare enough for a backcountry trip and forums are an excellent resource!

Our Background:

I currently live outside of Smoky Mountain National Park in Tennessee, so I am not a regular to glacier travel or consistent snow travel. I do however backpack on a very regular basis, have summited many Colorado 14ers that require route finding (West Slope of Snowmass Mountain in September), have done a fair share of snowshoeing in the Rockies and Cascades, and have experience with class 3 scrambles on scree. We are both in great physical shape. This WILL be my first snow covered 14er, so I am a bit intimidated and am looking for advice from someone who has been there and climbed it. My friend lives in Sacramento and spends EVERY weekend skiing the backcountry outside of Tahoe, so he is very familiar with snow travel, avalanche safety, etc.

Between the two of us, we have a great combination of skills, experience, knowledge, but again, I don't believe you can ever prepare enough.

Based off of my research over the last 5 months, it appears the casaval ridge route is NOT a technical route and does NOT require being roped. Neither of us have technical experience, which is part of what intimidates me.

The days before our summit, we are going to spend 4 days snowshoeing around the caldera of Crater Lake. (So we will already be acclimatized and have 4 days of snow travel experience under us). My main concern is the ridge from 11,000 - 14,000.

I'm confident with our experience and gear that we will be able to climb, however, I wanted to make sure we were not in over our heads based on the fact that this will be our first snow travel 14er. We both have all of the essential winter climbing gear needed. (Crampons, Ice Axe, Snowshoes, Probe, Shovel, Beacon, Etc.) (I am aware of the other thread on Casaval, but it died fairly quick and does not contain much useful information)

What is your experience with Mt. Shasta in early climbing season?
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kaiman
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by kaiman »

I haven't been on the Casaval Ridge route but have talked to a number of others that have. My understanding is that while it is not overly technical there is quite a bit of steep and exposed snow climbing/traverses so bringing a rope and snow anchors may be a good idea.

Also during that time of the year (April) there will be a chance of avalanche danger on the lower portion of the route so that's something to consider. Also Shasta gets pretty high winds in the spring (50-100 mph) so expect at least some time on the mountain in the wind.

Here is an overview on the route from Summit Post if you haven't seen it yet. It should give you a pretty good idea of what to expect: http://www.summitpost.org/casaval-ridge/155538" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good luck and be safe,

Kai
"I want to keep the mountains clean of racism, religion and politics. In the mountains this should play no role."

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"I haven't climbed Everest, skied to the poles, or sailed single-handed around the world. The goals I set out to accomplish aren't easily measured or quantified by world records or "firsts." The reasons I climb, and the climbs I do, are about more than distance or altitude, they are about breaking barriers within myself."

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ORION
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by ORION »

I've climbed Shasta via Casaval Ridge in the spring.
Awesome route, but several cautionary notes (Kai and the Summit Post mentions these, but I'll emphasize them): 1) there are a few sections of very steep snow climbing that I would not attempt without a rope, also significant exposure, and traverses on moderate slopes where you need to be confident in your self arrest abilities. 2) This route is long. We camped on the ridge during the ascent. We were always on snowshoes or crampons with heavy packs under a blazing sun and I was pretty beat on the ascent. 3) We had a perfect forecast, but we experienced terrible winds early in the descent. Gusting to well over 100 MPH, and visibility dropped to near zero. We couldn't descend the more technical sections in those conditions, couldn't even stand. We spent the night high on the exposed ridge in a snow cave. Very scared, very tired, and very cold.
So my opinion of the difficulty of this route is maybe a little biased! It's a beautiful route, and in my opinion the best way to climb Shasta, but I would recommend that at least one climber in your group have some experience with this type of mountaineering. Let me know if you need some more info on this route or our experience there. Good luck...Keith.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by MonGoose »

I climbed the Avalanche Gulch route on Mt Shasta with Shawn (Rainier_Wolfcastle) the first week of June last year. Initially we planned to climb in May but the weather was bad, so we pushed it back a couple of weeks. It was an awesome climb and an amazing mountain. One of these days I'll get around to finishing the trip report. :^o I'm happy to send you a sneak peak and some photos if you like. I guess I don't understand what you mean when you say "avalanche gulch will have too much snow that early in the year". It's a snow climb, how could they have too much snow? We hiked from Bunny Flat to Lake Helen (which isn't a lake) on Day 1 and camped overnight. The next morning we ascended to the summit and then descended to Bunny Flat on our 2nd day. There is 1,500' of continuous glissading down to Lake Helen, which makes this a popular ski route. We looked at Casaval Ridge often during our climb and it looks pretty challenging.

If you've never climbed in this type of environment, why not do the Avalanche Gulch route in late May or early June? It is the easiest route up the mountain and is a nice stepping stone to Mt Rainier. Make sure you get the right permits (because they'll check) and bring your own poop bags (you'll thank me later). I'd also recommend reading Climbing Mt Shasta, and contacting / visiting The Fifth Season. Those guys know what's going on at all times.
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jchapell
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by jchapell »

We are considering the exact same question: Avy Gulch or Casaval Ridge in the spring - though we'd probably go guided if we do Casaval.
Please fill us in on the snow info from the conversations you've had!
I've done Rainier 2x via DC, I'd also be interested if anyone has a comparison when talking about the steep sections.
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HikerCurt
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by HikerCurt »

I climbed Mt. Shasta via Aval Gulch in May 2014. I used Mt. Shasta guides and they talked about the Cas Ridge allot and gave us comparisons - it sounded like a much more difficult route. They had guided up it the trip before ours and the weather was very windy and cold and it sounded like an epic trip where only a couple submitted. Northern CA has gotten allot of snow this year especially in the Shasta/Lassen area so there may be some aval danger in the gulch - the advice to check with the local guides and shop is a great idea - they were very helpful. We submitted in 40+ mph winds and seen varying conditions all day. Still a great experience.

I had only done summer condition CO 14ers before attempting Shasta so it was my first snow climb, hence the guide service. Since then I've done some snow climbs in the Sierras and they've often been steeper but shorter then Shasta. A good warm up for Shasta is Lassen Pk, much easier and shorter then Shasta but still a snow climb before June.

When climbing Shasta I did get hit in the knee with a rock that fell from the Red Banks at 2:30 am. Going up was OK but man on the way down it stung, since the snow was still hard we weren't able to glissade till below Helen Lake. Still one of favorite submits and one I'd like to repeat. Enjoy and be safe!!
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ORION
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by ORION »

To jchapell's question of comparing Rainer's DC steepness to Casaval's: I don't remember DC's slope being greater than easy-moderate, and there's at least one section on Casaval where the slope seemed to me to be well over 60 degrees (very steep). The section was maybe 30 feet high, and no more difficult than climbing a ladder, but my heavy pack made me feel off balance and uncomfortable. We set up the best belay we could in heavy soft snow and took our time. I'm sure this route's difficulty varies dramatically season to season and even storm to storm, but if you've done DC twice, you should be ready for Casaval Ridge.

As to considering Avalanche Gulch in spring, the name says it all. We climbed Casaval in April, and could tell many avalanches had come down that chute. Big ones. But of course that all depends on the weather. We had decided beforehand we'd try the ridge for the beauty and the challenge. It had plenty of both.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

kaiman wrote:I haven't been on the Casaval Ridge route but have talked to a number of others that have. My understanding is that while it is not overly technical there is quite a bit of steep and exposed snow climbing/traverses so bringing a rope and snow anchors may be a good idea.
What all equipment would be involved in order to get setup with a simple roping system for mountaineering or anchor up steep/ short sections. I know that is a very general question, and is probably too late for that, but I’m just curious as I am not familiar will even simple climbing gear when it comes to ropes and technical climbing. Is that something I could prepare for and become comfortable with off snow?
ORION wrote:I've climbed Shasta via Casaval Ridge in the spring.
Awesome route, but several cautionary notes (Kai and the Summit Post mentions these, but I'll emphasize them): 1) there are a few sections of very steep snow climbing that I would not attempt without a rope, also significant exposure, and traverses on moderate slopes where you need to be confident in your self arrest abilities. 2) This route is long. We camped on the ridge during the ascent. We were always on snowshoes or crampons with heavy packs under a blazing sun and I was pretty beat on the ascent. 3) We had a perfect forecast, but we experienced terrible winds early in the descent. Gusting to well over 100 MPH, and visibility dropped to near zero. .
Wow. Glad you made it down safely. We both have ZERO problem with turning back down the mountain. If conditions are not ideal during the 4 day window we have allowed to make the summit, we will not even attempt it. We aren’t out to prove anything to anyone and the mountain will always be there waiting for us. I have read multiple reports about 45 degree slops towards the top but it sounds like they are fairly short sections.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

MonGoose wrote:I climbed the Avalanche Gulch route on Mt Shasta with Shawn (Rainier_Wolfcastle) the first week of June last year. I guess I don't understand what you mean when you say "avalanche gulch will have too much snow that early in the year". It's a snow climb, how could they have too much snow?
If you've never climbed in this type of environment, why not do the Avalanche Gulch route in late May or early June?
Based off of conversations that I have had with The Fifth Season already this year, they stated that avalanche gulch is not in a condition for climbing that early in the season because it simply has too much snow and avalanches are a daily occurrence at that time. ( Hence the name). The alternate “early spring/late winter” route is typically Casaval Ridge, because they keep the roads cleared to Bunny Flats year round.
whitetailbowhunter
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

jchapell wrote:We are considering the exact same question: Avy Gulch or Casaval Ridge in the spring - though we'd probably go guided if we do Casaval.
Please fill us in on the snow info from the conversations you've had!
I've done Rainier 2x via DC, I'd also be interested if anyone has a comparison when talking about the steep sections.
Since it is an el nino year, they have been getting quite a bit of snow and winter is expected to last into April this year. I have been communicating mainly with The Fifth Season and Mt. Shasta Guides. They have both been extremely willing to help with any and all questions. However, they are around the mountain and these conditions every single day so I am just trying to get a diverse breadth of advice and suggestions. If you hear of anything different please share!

If you do a guided trip, who are you thinking about using?
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by Scott P »

Between the two of us, we have a great combination of skills, experience, knowledge,
To be honest, no, you do not a great combination of skills, experience, and knowledge if you are climbing a class 4 snow route. None of the experience you listed is applicable for that.

Image

I really hope that you only consider going guided. It could also be a good way to build up skills.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
whitetailbowhunter
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

Incredible photo! You are correct about the experience portion on class 4 snow routes. I have no experience on climbing snow routes, but plenty of experience on scree, exposed ridges, and route finding 14ers. That is what intimidates me about this particular climb.

I have heard both sides of the spectrum from people that had zero problems on this route as a first snow climb, to people like yourself that only recommend guided. I certainly look for and appreciate all! Mt. Shasta guides told me that we would be fine based on our experience, but they know that mountain like the back of their hand I am sure. I think it all really comes down to snow conditions at the time and weather forecasts for our summit window.

Does anyone know of an affordable guide service for Casaval Ridge? Anyone out there with experience want to tag along for some side cash?
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