Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

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Scott P
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by Scott P »

I have no experience on climbing snow routes, but plenty of experience on scree, exposed ridges, and route finding 14ers
None of which will help on steep snow and ice.
Mt. Shasta guides told me that we would be fine based on our experience
Personally, I have a hard time believing that. Which guide was it? What experience? You have no experience. None.

Even to go guided, their website says that you must be experienced to join:

This is the classic alpine ridge climb on Mt. Shasta for winter and spring ascents. Dramatic rock spires and steep, exposed climbing make for an airy and technical ascent. Perfect for those who want a more challenging route to the summit. Prior climbing experience and strong physical ability required.

http://shastaguides.com/climbs/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Their next date is April 15-17, but they also do custom trips.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

Correct. Hence my concern and continuous search for advice. I appreciate the input, I really do, as it adds a level a caution that you always have to have when developing an itinerary and making sure not to bite off more than you can chew.

Not here to argue, and that is fine, but It was the same guide service you posted. I contacted them a few months ago to talk through various itineraries and see what our options were. (They were the ones who first told me about the Casaval route and mentioned that avy gulch would be too dangerous due to avalanche danger that early in the season.) After talking for quite sometime about my experiences with other climbs, long hikes, and canyoneering, they offered their assistance in a guided climb. They have an incredible reputation in the area and have been recommended highly online, but I just don't want to allocate the funds for a $700 guided climb at the moment. Which is why were are trying to decide if we continue for Shasta or head somewhere completely different after our 4 day Crater Lake Snowshoe trip. (Redwoods, Lake Tahoe, etc.)
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by jchapell »

Did they mention/did you ask about the West Face as an option? It should be notably less technical than Casaval Ridge, but i"m not sure if the avalanche issue is any different than Avalanche Gulch.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

jchapell wrote:Did they mention/did you ask about the West Face as an option? It should be notably less technical than Casaval Ridge, but i"m not sure if the avalanche issue is any different than Avalanche Gulch.
They did not/ I did not. I will look at that as an alternate route as well and let you know if I come up with any good information pertaining to it. It looks like a great alternative since the trailhead starts at Bunny Flats, but it seems like it would have similar conditions as far as avalanche danger during the first week of April. I will call to talk through it as an option.
Last edited by whitetailbowhunter on Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by AlexeyD »

jchapell wrote:i"m not sure if the avalanche issue is any different than Avalanche Gulch.
It's not. Most of the West Face gully lies at pretty much an ideal angle to slide. I suppose that wind loading may be less of a factor due to the aspect, but if avy danger is high overall, it is certainly not a safe alternative.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by Scott P »

Not here to argue, and that is fine, but It was the same guide service you posted.
Yes, I already contacted them a while ago and they are watching this thread.
I contacted them a few months ago to talk through various itineraries and see what our options were. (They were the ones who first told me about the Casaval route and mentioned that avy gulch would be too dangerous due to avalanche danger that early in the season.) After talking for quite sometime about my experiences with other climbs, long hikes, and canyoneering, they offered their assistance in a guided climb.

So in other words, they offered you assistance in a privately guided climb. They never said that you will be find going unguided without any experience, which is what you indicated earlier.

I have heard both sides of the spectrum from people that had zero problems on this route as a first snow climb, to people like yourself that only recommend guided. Mt. Shasta guides told me that we would be fine based on our experience

I'm confident with our experience and gear that we will be able to climb

Etc.

Also, the experience required on privately guided trips is sometimes lower than that of going with a set group. Please stop mentioning the word "experience". You have none.
They have an incredible reputation in the area and have been recommended highly online, but I just don't want to allocate the funds for a $700 guided climb at the moment.


It would be a foolish decision not to take a guide because of the money. $700 is a bargain for a privately guided trip up a route such as the Casaval Ridge on Mount Shasta, especially considering the time of year. If you can't afford it, then they only other option is gaining experience before trying a climb like this. Attempting a sustained and exposed (and often multi-day) class 4 snow and ice route in early April on Mt Shasta with zero experience and without a guide is stupid; there is no way around that. It may not be nice to say, but it is true. Also, no one in their right mind is going to "tag along" and climb the mountain with you unless you are going guided or have some experience.

PS, normally I'm a really nice guy on the forums, but every once in a while there are post that need to be called out. If it seems like I'm beating you up in the thread, that is probably true, but only because it seems that you have no idea what you are doing. It's better to be admonished than end of dead or in a bad situation.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by AlexeyD »

Scott P wrote:Yes, I already contacted them a while ago and they are watching this thread
If that's the case, perhaps they should clarify their position and recommendations, and clear up what are obviously different interpretations of what they meant by the OP vs. others in this thread.

Also, FWIW, having climbed Mt. Shasta several times by several routes (as well as many, many other snow/ice/mountaineering routes), and without repeating a lot of what has already been said, I'm going to add a +1 to Scott's comments. Nothing personal, but I agree that I'm less concerned with people's feelings than their safety.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by Scott P »

If that's the case, perhaps they should clarify their position and recommendations, and clear up what are obviously different interpretations of what they meant by the OP vs. others in this thread.
Here's what they said to me, but beyond that I don't think anything needs to be clarified.

Thanks for the heads up and link. It looks like this has been clarified. I may have indicated they would be capable of joining a private guided summit climb but we would never recommend this climb for someone with no experience to do on their own or even join one of our group climbs.

I will keep an eye on this and chime in if necessary.


Shasta Mountain Guides is a reputable and respectable guide service and $700 for a guided climb (if that price was correct) up that type of route on that mountain in the US is a bargain. That's a lot cheaper than a similar climb of say, Mount Rainier.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

AlexeyD wrote:
If that's the case, perhaps they should clarify their position and recommendations, and clear up what are obviously different interpretations of what they meant by the OP vs. others in this thread.

Also, FWIW, having climbed Mt. Shasta several times by several routes (as well as many, many other snow/ice/mountaineering routes), and without repeating a lot of what has already been said, I'm going to add a +1 to Scott's comments. Nothing personal, but I agree that I'm less concerned with people's feelings than their safety.
I appreciate the input and am not worried about the feelings. That is why I asked the question. I want to hear the good, bad, and ugly as I want to get good advice.

I don't think there is anything to clarify. Its not as if they recommended we go out alone and on our own no matter what the situation or condition. That is what it seems John took my comments by, but that is not what I meant to imply. Without going into every detail, we talked for quite awhile about various topics. We discussed various route options for that time of year, the current and forecasted snow conditions, safety course through the American Avalanche Association, and then ultimately I asked for their opinion on whether or not they thought we would be fine on Casaval Ridge that time of the year if we decided to go without a guide.

Again, they by no means acted as if it was no big deal, as they recommended we opt for a guided option. However, the gentleman I spoke with also thought that we had a very broad range of experience in every other type of backpacking/hiking/mountaineering/canyoneering all over the US, that it would put us in a good position to plan for the climb with the right equipment, mentality, and preperation. I understand this is a snow climb, but all of those other skills and experience do indeed play into account. (My experience backcountry snowboarding Copper and A basin certainly helps with similar knowledge of Avalanche safety. My buddies experience that he spends backcountry Skiing every weekend just south of Mt. Shasta right now certainly helps with understanding snow safety and the cascades. At some point in the thread it was noted that neither of us have ANY experience at all. That couldn't be further from the truth. We just simply haven't climbed on snow and ice, YET. We've both spent a lot of time in high altitude. We've both spent a ton of time backcountry skiing/snowboarding, we've both snowshoed long miles, used crampons, ice axes, and have avalanche safety knowledge. I've backpacked all over the United States in the Appalachians, Rockies, Sierras, Cascades, and Whites. I've summited many 14ers in the U.S. We are both in excellent physical shape. We just don't have technical rope experience and have not summited a snow packed 14er, YET.) That certainly doesn't justify use making this particular ascent, as it sounds by everyone's recommendations that this is not a good route to take for us, but it also does not imply that a company recommended two idiots that know nothing about the outdoors and mountaineering to venture out on to Mt. Shasta and attempt a climb they have no business even thinking about.

They were extremely helpful in setting the ground work for researching Mt. Shasta for me. I'm not sure why this got turned to the guiding company, but they have been extremely helpful and professional as has The Fifth Season.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by AlexeyD »

OK, now I'm confused:
whitetailbowhunter wrote:We just simply haven't climbed on snow and ice, YET.
whitetailbowhunter wrote: we've both snowshoed long miles, used crampons, ice axes, and have avalanche safety knowledge
So which is it? Or did you just use the ice axe to open a beer? :)
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by whitetailbowhunter »

AlexeyD wrote:OK, now I'm confused:
whitetailbowhunter wrote:We just simply haven't climbed on snow and ice, YET.
whitetailbowhunter wrote: we've both snowshoed long miles, used crampons, ice axes, and have avalanche safety knowledge
So which is it? Or did you just use the ice axe to open a beer? :)
HA, that is what I use it for back in Tennessee!

My point is we do have some good experience in a wide variety of conditions, just not in these exact conditions, which is why i'm cautious, hesitant, and continuously researching.
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Re: Climbing Mt. Shasta, CA in April - Any Experience?

Post by Scott P »

:?
I understand this is a snow climb, but all of those other skills and experience do indeed play into account.


No they don't.
At some point in the thread it was noted that neither of us have ANY experience at all.
You don't (or maybe you do-see below). The experience needed on a class 4 snow and ice climb is snow and ice climbing experience, which you don't have.

Should someone try to fly a helicopter because they have experience in bowling and swimming?

Or maybe you do have experience. Your post are confusing and you are giving conflicting information. Now you are claiming that you have used crampons and ice axes? When did you use them and what routes?
I spoke with also thought that we had a very broad range of experience in every other type of backpacking/hiking/mountaineering/canyoneering all over the US
I'm sure I am beating a dead horse and am going to regret asking this, but how do you have every other type of mountaineering/canyoneering experience if the following is true?: :?


What all equipment would be involved in order to get setup with a simple roping system for mountaineering or anchor up steep/ short sections. I know that is a very general question, and is probably too late for that, but I’m just curious as I am not familiar will even simple climbing gear when it comes to ropes and technical climbing.

Using ropes is among the most basic of mountaineering and canyoneering skills.

Something doesn't add up.
also does not imply that a company recommended two idiots that know nothing about the outdoors and mountaineering to venture out on to Mt. Shasta and attempt a climb they have no business even thinking about.
No, the company didn't. The company said that you did even have enough experience to join one of their guided groups, let alone going without a guide. That should have been enough of an answer right there. (Though they were willing to take you on a private climb).

I'll stop here though. It is obvious that I'm beating a dead horse and nothing is sinking through. You ask for advice, and much good advice was given by many 14ers.com members.
Last edited by Scott P on Sat Feb 27, 2016 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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