Whitney MR advice

[cpb145]

Posted this over on the whitneyzone forums, but no responses yet, but I'm sure some of my old neighbors here in Colorado have the answers I'm looking for...


I will be attempting the MR for the second time the middle of this June. I was unsuccessful on my first attempt mostly due to poor research on my part, and spending too much time way off trail, ultimately having to call it as I otherwise wouldn't be back before my trail note got sent out. I'd like to avoid repeating that. So I have a few questions if anyone could chime in....

The plan, as before, is a single day trip, up the MR, then using the easy walk off, and descending the Whitney trail. I would set off so I can hit the ledges just prior to sunrise. In an attempt to have a turn around time/point set, I'd like input on roughly how these times sound. I'm no land speed record breaker, as I typically average a 1000' an hour on the 14ers I've done. I can however fly down hill.

3-3.5hrs to LBSL
+1-1.5 to UBSL from LBSL
+1.5-2hrs to iceberg lake from UBSL
+2-2.5hrs from iceberg lake to the notch
+45min-1hr from the notch to the summit via walk off

About 5hrs down the Whitney trail.

Total to summit 9-10hrs, overall 14-16hrs.

Am I way off on anything, and if so what section?

Next, what advice can be offered when facing the chute? Tips, tricks? Stay left? What works generally for everyone? The chute is probably my biggest fear currently, as I didn't get that far last time.

Oh, also advice on navigating the ridge from UBSL to iceberg, and best routes.

I have crampons, but would an ice ax typically be recommended in mid June? (Last time was mid July) I know it's early to predict, but I'd rather have it in the car and not take it than vice verse if the general consensus is to bring it.

Lastly I suppose, any crazy things to take note of coming down the standard way? I'm doubting it, but better just ask.

Thanks for any insight!

[FireOnTheMountain]

Your times seem ok to conservative. Just remember that with an early start you will be in the pitch black for the majority of the approach making routefinding and negotiating the minor slabs a little more difficult but since its your 2nd time that may go smoother this time.

From what I recall lower boy scout to iceberg wasnt that difficult. Use the snow where you can to make travel quicker. Also note the main couloir gets sun early which will heighten slushiness and rockfall potential. for ideal climbing conditions I would want to be at the base of the couloir no later than like 7am (earlier even better depending on cloud coverage).

Just a note, descending MR would be faster and more direct but will require judgement on wet slab avy and is also contingent on how comfortable you are DCing snow. bring your axe.

have fun

[gspup]

My only advice, when in doubt always bring the axe...you will also look cooler as an added bonus

[rijaca]

I have crampons, but would an ice ax typically be recommended in mid June? (Last time was mid July) I know it's early to predict, but I'd rather have it in the car and not take it than vice verse if the general consensus is to bring it.

Thanks for any insight!

Yes!

You're welcome.

[Shasta Locales]

We climbed the MR back in 2003, so it's been quite awhile and quite a few mountains ago.


I'd recommend the Whitney Portal Store Forum over whitneyzone

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum ... d=1&page=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

By June, they'll have lots of active threads where you'll be able to see the current conditions and get great advice.

Good luck!

[Rainier_Wolfcastle]

Well, I've been up the route late in April and September, so I have no idea what conditions would be like in June. I'd suggest bringing axe, crampons, and micro-spikes...then asking at the portal store when you are there what you should bring.

When it was dry in September we went up the steep, but solid climber's right side of the couloir until we were forced into the loose middle's switchbacks (don't have a group above you when in the middle!) On the way down we veered to the descender's right side where it was generally looser, but less steep with some switchback trails (just like descending the crap on many of CO's steeper 14ers).

As for UBSL to Iceberg...there are a few paths with cairns. The cairns really help getting through the slabs earlier on. Then resist the urge to go too high climbers right after the slabs, just stay a little lower in the middle. I have done the last couple hundred feet up to Iceberg a couple of different ways, don't remember it being too much of a puzzle in early light.

If you descend the standard route, and like exposed scrambling on solid blocks, you have to tag Mount Muir as well! That was the highlight of the September Trip...even though we had to go back up and over Whitney to get back to our camp. The description is pretty good on Summitpost.org..as the starting point can be hard to locate.

[kaiman]

I have crampons, but would an ice ax typically be recommended in mid June?

Typically crampons and an ice axe go together like bread and butter, i.e. if there is enough snow/ice to need crampons you'll want an ice axe too (although you can sometimes get away with trekking poles, on a route like that I would want an axe).

I climbed the Mountaineers Route in September 2012 and it was almost a total snow free scramble, however, when I did the Standard Route on Whitney in early August of 2011 (which was a big snow year in the Sierras), the route was pretty well snow covered all the way to the final stretch below the summit. Given the amount of snow they've had there this year (which has been about average) and the fact that that route faces northeast, my guess is that in June your going to run into some snow so I would be prepared for that type of climbing.

Good luck it's a great route!

Kai

[HuskyRunner]

We did MR to Iceberg then East Buttress to the top and finally the standard trail out last year, July 10 I think. Despite doing research, having a GPS with waypoints and good route descriptions I recall that we took a lot of time getting up to Iceberg lake mostly because in the dark that route was surprisingly not as obvious as I would have thought. Getting from lower Boy Scout lake was pretty straight forward but we did take the left route around LBSL to Upper BSL. Encountered some light snow (maybe an inch) and ice on the 3rd class wall going to Iceberg but nothing that required an axe or crampons, at least until the last 2 pitches of the buttress when we got about 6 inches of graupel before summiting. Our original plan was to descend MR but with the graupel and setting sun we weren't confident of doing so safely so we took the regular trail down. No real issues on the standard trail other than it's surprising, and quite scenic, traversing around the Mt Whitney massif before finally dropping down the valley. Have a good map for the lower portion of the trail as there are a few other trails you could accidentally take.

Your times up to Iceberg sound about right to me, can't say about the upper portions as we took the buttress. We did hear a good amount of rock falling onto the upper portion of the MR so definitely take a noggin protector and watch out for rock fall. There were some runners and rappel rings just off the summit so I suspect some people rappel those sections? We had a permit for the the MR but not the trail but didn't encounter rangers, not sure how stringent they are about going down without a permit if you do run into a ranger?

It's a beautiful area but man was that a long 20 hours, a little surprised at the amount of loose rock up there also but maybe that's because we had unrealistic expectations about finding that wonderfully solid Sierra granite?

[spiderman]

With good 14er conditioning, the MR takes six hours. You start off at low elevation so it isn't hard to get significant speed at the beginning. I did it in ~8 hours while schlepping stuff for two people. I always had done the climbs later in the year when the time of day didn't matter. I also always did the standard way down. Be careful of icy sections on the backside. Get good route conditions before heading out since there are areas where a fall could be fatal. Also be careful if you chose to glissade down the switchbacks because many people have died there when they didn't head proper safety techniques.

DEFINITELY bring an ice ax.

[cpb145]

Also note the main couloir gets sun early which will heighten slushiness and rockfall potential. for ideal climbing conditions I would want to be at the base of the couloir no later than like 7am

Wow, 7am at the base of the chute? I planned on navigating the ledges just before dawn when there was enough light out to feel ok about it. That wouldn't put me to the chute until maybe 1030ish. I guess I was hoping by mid June there wouldn't be that much snow and I could still head up it relatively dry. Guess I'll just have to play that one by year and judge the conditions when I get to it.

If you descend the standard route, and like exposed scrambling on solid blocks, you have to tag Mount Muir as well!

Excellent beta all around, thank you. You stayed right up the chute? Seems most people go left, as it avoids having to cross in the middle towards the top. But I guess there isn't necessarily a right way to get to the top...unlike getting back down;) How much extra time does Muir add on? I'll have to look into this.

DEFINITELY bring an ice ax.

Seems to be the general consensus. I'll realistically hopefully only use it on the "easy walk off" traverse area, but it'll look bad ass and is always handy if I run into a yeti.

I knew I could count on you guys here! Thank you, and keep any info coming!

[jchapell]

We are heading to do the MR the last weekend in April, I'll try and remember to come back with some time updates at that time (but feel free to PM me).

In addition to what people have said about Whitneyzone and Whitneyportalstore forums, hop over to Amazon and check out the http://www.amazon.com/Mount-Whitney-Mou ... tney+store. It is written by the owner of the Whitney Portal Store / Hostel/ Hotel, and includes a lot of good info on the routes. It'll set you back about $3 for a used copy.