Via Ferrata?

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Monster5
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by Monster5 »

Has anybody made their own via ferrata using an 8 ft section of dynamic rope? Or can you see any major drawbacks to it with respect to a commercial rig, besides weight?
Figure 8s and lockers at either end with an overhand or fig8 on a bight in the middle to girth or clip in to the harness. Each tether just under 3 ft. Seems like abrasion can be an issue, but probably better than dual PASs since it is dynamic. I was also considering using dynamic accessory cord inside of bunched 1 IN tubular webbing, but making it would be annoying.

Also, does anybody have much experience with via ferrata near Chamonix in early July or are most of the safety lines/routes still snow covered (in general, weather dependent)?
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TallGrass
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by TallGrass »

Monster5 wrote:Has anybody made their own via ferrata using an 8 ft section of dynamic rope?
Compare the give of that 8' section versus that of a dedicated tear-apart system and considering the cost/benefit. Even a 8' fall on dynamic line usually involves at least twice the length of rope between points (climber, belayer). More info http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrat ... _equipment and some recalls.
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by Buckie06 »

We made custom ones when we climbed the Telluride Ferrata:

6' or so of webbing in a Y shape with bungie cord threaded through. Overhand or Fig 8 on bite knot on the two ends with Locking biners. Fig 8 knot at the middle with a locker clipped to a Screamer clipped to your harness with another locker.

Fully stretched from your harness to the end lockers was an arm length.
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Monster5
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by Monster5 »

Thanks, buckie06 - the inclusion of a screamer into the system sounds like a reasonable idea.

Tallgrass - The 8 ft would be halved with 3 knots taking additional length (like a "V"). The max theoretical fall would be 5-6 ft, assuming each tether/branch is 2.5-3 ft (exact length tbd later). A 10.2 mm rope can absorb that easily enough. Not sure if screamers or an energy absorbing plate are much more beneficial with thick dynamic line as opposed to bungee-in-webbing. Seems like a more likely failure scenario would be cross loaded biners against angle iron, which commercial systems are also subject to. Note that the lanyard with elastic arms, a similar system, has no recalls.

Edit: I could see the unstretched length of rope being cumbersome and awkward (tripping/snag hazard). Bungee and webbing would be 1/2- 2/3rds the length with the same stretched reach. Think I'll go with buckie's setup.
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by TallGrass »

Ropes are like springs, but under tension versus compression.

Two 6-foot ropes in parallel (two lines from VF set) halves the amount of stretch compared to a single 6-footer.

Two 6-foot ropes in series (single line up through quickdraw and down to belayer) doubles the amount of stretch compared to a single 6-footer.

So how do you keep the "softness" of the catch the same when you're regularly alternating between single and double clipped in?

Think about this if considering using a "dynamic lanyard" mentioned above in place of a VF set. The "V" was used before "Y" but suffered from "a major limitation - it is essential to clip only one arm at a time onto the cable. If both arms are clipped, the energy absorber will not work." On a VR route, the set has to act like both, hence the energy absorber (screamer or friction) is below-the-V of the Y and indifferent to whether one or both of the lines are clipped in or catch (like when on opposite sides of a cable post). Given the variety of ways one can fall on a VF route (immediate tension on a ladder, progressive tension in the middle of a horizontal cable, zero then full at high force zipping down a vertical cable until a post), one could run into an unaccounted for variable using a homemade rig that spine doesn't relish.
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by Gabriel »

I climbed ferratas in the Alps for 20 years with a variety of home made dynamic and static equipment, but really just get a proper Ferrata set, their cheap and very safe. I use a BD model, but CAMP makes the best, currently, IMO.

Have fun,

Gabe
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by Monster5 »

I believe I'll make a system similar to buckie's with perhaps rope instead of bungee webbing. The inclusion of the screamer between the apex of the "V" and the harness ("Y") is a very good idea. Thanks, Gabriel, but buying two sets for a couple routes doesn't make much sense and the safety aspect can be redundanc-ized and replicated via gear already in hand. It won't be as pretty or sleek, but I'm sure I can make it pretty darn safe.

Question remains, anybody with first-hand Chamonix area via ferrata experience in early July? I've been googling the routes and TRs as well.
Last edited by Monster5 on Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Brian C
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by Brian C »

Heya Ryan.

Sounds like a fun trip. The bungee-screamer setup sounds pretty slick/cheap if you already have the screamers. You're welcome to borrow 2 from me if you don't have any and want them.

BC
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canuckcowboy
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by canuckcowboy »

I am currently living in Trento, Italy at the base of the Dolomites (Brenta Dolomites are the closest group and have some of the best VF in the world). There are a few really good shops both here and in Bolzano that have all the equipment needed for VF; you might even be able to rent (I will check this option out for myself as well and post an update). Gear here is about 25% more expensive than online or REI would have if you are to purchase.

I haven't done any VF yet as it is currently pretty epic ski-touring season here, but as soon as the snow turns to mush i plan to do some VF. There is also a good website here for trekking \ scialpinismo \ climbing and VF. They should be able to give you tons of info on routes and peaks. http://girovagandoinmontagna.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Via Ferrata?

Post by GeorgiaTyler »

The Telluride VF is amazing. All I used for my girlfriend and myself was a regular harness and webbing girth hitched to the master point (2 separate strands). locking biners on end that attaches to cable. We wanted to keep it simple and that was cheap and effective, and awesome.
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