Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

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LoveThisSite
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Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

Post by LoveThisSite »

Hi folks,

I'm planning to climb Antisana, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo in Ecuador in Nov 2014.
If I'm able to handle this climb well, then the next logical climbs I'm considering are Denali and Aconcagua.
All of these fall in the "require double boot" category, with Denali probably being the coldest.

The two most popular choices appear to be:
La Sportiva Spantik
Scarpa Phantom 6000

I currently have the La Sportiva Nepal EVOs - fantastic boots. As a comparison point, I was comfortable with these boots + 2 pairs of socks on Orizaba and Izta.

Any feedback good/bad on the above?
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Re: Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

Post by I Man »

Spantik is my favorite overall mountaineering boot. I used it on Denali, on 6000m peaks in Peru and plan to use it on all my expeditions this summer. It also comes in handy for very cold overnights in Colorado. I also have the Nepal and love it but i feel the Spantik is the all around best boot. I wear Sportiva for everything.
Scarpa is very good as well, it comes down to which brand fits you.
If the Nepals fit you then try the Spantik. You will be able to climb almost any mountain in the world with those. They are considered a 7000m boot.
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Re: Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

Post by Pops921 »

If you like the La Sportiva Nepal Evo's and would lean towards La Sportiva and go Spatnik. The most important thing is how the boat fit YOUR foot, so try them both on if you can.

I have a pair of Spatnik's and Nepal Evo's. I really like both. The Spatinik's are warmer and the Nepal Evo's are lighter and more comfortable. I wore the Spatnik's on Aconcagua, Mount Blanc (did not really need them) and a couple of Rainier Trips. I actually wore the Nepal Evo's on my Cotopaxi and Cayambe in Ecuador (I had my Spatnik's with me, but the forecast looked good). One word of warning - I had to buy my Spatniks a full size bigger then my Evo's (43.5 vs. 42.5).
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Re: Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

Post by sdkeil »

Echoing what people have said here, I would put a higher premium on what fits you the best. For mountains in Ecuador you are typically only in your boots for a day, so even it they aren't super comfortable you can typically get by. On Denali you will be in those boots day after day, so that is why fit is most crucial to me.

Scarpa's have always been good to me and they seem to fit my foot right out of the box. La Sportiva's just seemed to have never fit me right when I tried them on at the stores. I have the Scarpa Charmoz (my go to Colorado spring boot), and I have the Scarpa 6000M boot for my double boot. Not only did the Scarpa 6000M fit me better, I think they are less clunky to walk in than the Spantik. I also had the unique Spantik lacing system (brand new out of the box) break in the store, which kind of soured me on the Spantiks.

I have been told the Spantiks are a little warmer than the 6000M, but both are fine on Denali. Besides you are going to wear an overboot on Denali regardless of whether you have the 6000M or the Spantik.

My last advice is make sure you take your time and really wear the boots around the store for awhile. Make sure you try them out with the sock layers you plan to use. For Denali I used a think wool liner and a heavy expedition wool.

Good luck!
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Re: Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

Post by shearmodulus »

+1 on Spantiks.

I have a narrow foot, so their narrower footbed really works well for me. Plus you can heat mold the liners for a better fit.
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Re: Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

Post by colokeith »

I have the scarpa phantom 6000 they are a really nice boot. Fit my foot well, very warm, and they are quite light.
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Re: Mountaineering boots for Ecuador/Aconcagua/Denali

Post by jblyth »

I love my Spantiks and Nepals, but as others have said, it's all about personal fit. I tried on several pairs of Scarpa boots over the years, but they are always way too wide for me.

Have fun in Ecuador, it's a great place.
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