Peru or Bolivia - June/July 2014

[Scott P]

The Spirit Airlines flights are always about $700 but they charge you for everything including your carry on bag. By the time you spend an extra $300 in baggage fees and risk losing your luggage you'll wish you hadn't chose a budget airline haha.

Good to know, especially since I was thinking of using them in the future.

Anyway, I got my $500 RT to Lima/$600 RT to Arequipa on United/Lan/American combination through Orbitz (which was cheaper than booking through any airline directly). I got lucky since when my friend tried to book, the price was double.

If you do see low fares, book them right away since they never last long.

[shredthegnar10]

I think Alpamayo is definitely a possibility. Stay in touch and let me know what your plans are. I was looking most closely at Tocllaraju, but I'm open to suggestions.

Cost isn't really an issue but I would rather go unguided. July would be ideal (for my schedule), but June would probably be doable.

[Scott P]

Cost isn't really an issue but I would rather go unguided.

Be aware that if you go to the Blanca, supposedly the requirement for guides is being enforced more strictly, at least on the popular peaks.

Some people are getting away without guides by showing AAC cards, but starting this year, the guide laws are supposedly going to be enforced more.

I just got back from Peru a few days ago, and although I didn't climb in the Blanca, this is the word on the street.

[I Man]

Cost isn't really an issue but I would rather go unguided.

Be aware that if you go to the Blanca, supposedly the requirement for guides is being enforced more strictly, at least on the popular peaks.

Some people are getting away without guides by showing AAC cards, but starting this year, the guide laws are supposedly going to be enforced more.

I just got back from Peru a few days ago, and although I didn't climb in the Blanca, this is the word on the street.

This does seem to be a hot issue down there. We got lucky last year (AAC cards 2 real, 1 fake) and entered the 2 most popular basins a total of 3 times. I am worried though about these news rules and it will be interesting to see how it develops over the coming years.

With Ecuador already closed off to climbing, it'd be a real shame if one of the greatest alpine playgrounds In the world is no longer an option.

[geojed]

With Ecuador already closed off to climbing, it'd be a real shame if one of the greatest alpine playgrounds In the world is no longer an option.

A tad hyperbolic since you prefer to climb unguided, but Ecuador isn't "closed off" to climbing. You just have to have a guide. Same may eventually go for Peru. I really hope not, so all can have the option to climb unguided or guided. We'll see.

[Scott P]

With Ecuador already closed off to climbing, it'd be a real shame if one of the greatest alpine playgrounds In the world is no longer an option.

In both areas, it seems only applicable to standard routes on the popular peaks. For Ecuador, it is mostly limited the standard routes on Illinizas, Antisana, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and Cayambe. If you want to climb something more difficult that most guides don't want to do (say, some of the routes on El Altar), it seems that you are given a pass.

Same with the Blanca. If you want to do the standard routes on peaks such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Copa, Pisoco, Alpaymayo, Artesonraju, and a few others, it seems likely to be enforced since the guides often do those peaks. If you wanted to do something remote or difficult (peaks such as Cayesh, Huanstan, Chacraraju, etc.), or an unusual route, it seems that you are given permission even if you ask for it (with proof of experience), since the guides don't climb those peaks or routes.

For both areas, it seems that the popular guided routes are really where the issues arise. Although safety is usually stated as the reason, employment of guides is probably the real motivating factor. Also, to be fair, safety wise, Peru doesn't have the resources for many rescues of climbers.

[I Man]

With Ecuador already closed off to climbing, it'd be a real shame if one of the greatest alpine playgrounds In the world is no longer an option.

In both areas, it seems only applicable to standard routes on the popular peaks. For Ecuador, it is mostly limited the standard routes on Illinizas, Antisana, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and Cayambe. If you want to climb something more difficult that most guides don't want to do (say, some of the routes on El Altar), it seems that you are given a pass.

Same with the Blanca. If you want to do the standard routes on peaks such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Copa, Pisoco, Alpaymayo, Artesonraju, and a few others, it seems likely to be enforced since the guides often do those peaks. If you wanted to do something remote or difficult (peaks such as Cayesh, Huanstan, Chacraraju, etc.), or an unusual route, it seems that you are given permission even if you ask for it (with proof of experience), since the guides don't climb those peaks or routes.

For both areas, it seems that the popular guided routes are really where the issues arise. Although safety is usually stated as the reason, employment of guides is probably the real motivating factor. Also, to be fair, safety wise, Peru doesn't have the resources for many rescues of climbers.

Good insight here, Scott. I will reiterate that my team was able to gain entry to the park without a guide last year for both Alpyamayo and Huascaran (standard routes) and Artesonraju (non standard route) and it wasn't much of a problem. I think luck had a lot to do with that.

I can sympathize here with the popular routes, but still don't think any rule should be hard and fast. There will continue to be a great many qualified climbers who wish to climb on their own on popular mountains.

The employment of guides is the single best reason, IMO, for this and I don't really have a rebuttal. The most I can say is we spent a month in Huarez and frequented shops, restaurants and hostels as well as utilized the services of Burros/drivers and taxi drivers. The CB certainly benefited from our visit and we benefited from the Park's willingness to let us climb on our own terms.

[Scott P]

but still don't think any rule should be hard and fast.

I agree with you 100%, but even if we disagree with the rules, I guess in the end it is their country, their decision, and we are guest. If economically the rules drive off climbers, there is a good chance the rules will be changed. If the rules actually help employment and the economy, there is a better chance that the rules are here to stay. At least that's my guess. (As said earlier, I'm guessing this has more to do about money than safety).

I know when the situation is reversed, climbers sometimes don't like our regulations. For example, there are a lot of foreign companies that want to guide Denali, but the Park Service won't let them.