Orizaba, anyone?

[mtn_nut]

http://www.webcamsdemexico.com/webcam-p ... izaba.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

looks like the peaks got some fresh snow

[antivoyage]

Turbocat, you're echoing my sentiments on boot selection. I just want to add that if you watch the mountain forecast you'll see the freezing elevation vary from just above the hut to sometimes as high as 4,800 m (15,750 ft), near the snout of the glacier. The intermittent warmth through the draw clears out fallen snow pretty fast, so the approach can swing from a mere scree slog to an ICY scree slog in as little as an afternoon.

Bottom line, don't count on any particular condition below the glacier. I'd like to highlight your comment that simple insulated boots are the perfect swing players for swing conditions. The front and back welts allow you to step in to automatic crampons with a little less fuss. I've removed crampons to break my high camp after coming back from the summit only to have to put crampons back on after a fresh snow blew in on the already loose scree during my descent back to the hut. (P.S.: personally I've had better luck with the automatics than lace ups for staying put on the boot).

Finally, it hasn't been dry ALL year. Several major snows have been forecast by Mexico's NOAA (the Servicio Meterologio Nacional, or SMN) since December. Twitter is a great source of up-to-the minute info with Protección Civil Veracruz @spcver and Meteorología México (a citizen journalist) @InfoMeteoro being the most frequent posters. Just a recent sampling of weather events below, which I only include to discourage you from "phoning in" your insulation. I've summited in very cold conditions and my single boot (Sportiva Nepal Evos) were fine, but don't forget to pack serious jackets for cold AND wet.

* Storm dumps 12 cm (5") of snow painting Pico de Orizaba Park white.
https://noticiasaztecapuebla.mx/index.p ... de-blanco/

* Arrival of cold front brings gusts of 75-85 k/h (45-53 mph), put on your coats!
https://twitter.com/spcver/status/690603304439574528

I just climbed Orizaba 2 weeks ago and had the same dilemma prior to going.

Glad I did not take my Koflach Degrees and BD Sabres. Totally would have been overkill for this peak based on the conditions we experienced. It is not a great snow year down there, but the glacier was in decent shape with great boot pack switchbacks all the way up (read: mostly flat foot crampon walking). Of course all of this can change if the weather shifts. Standard route does not really rise more than 38 degrees in pitch also.

Went with my Raichle All Degree insulated mountaineering boot (single wall, not a double) and my BD Contacts and they worked fine. I have never had my BD Contacts slip or move...when they are strapped on correctly, they stay put. I guess your type of boot may make a difference with actual fit...but mine are bomber.

I did use some toe warmers that I put in my boot while I was transitioning at the glacier. Glad I did because it was freaking cold up there.

Of note, after cruising through the Labyrinth 2x...that 2,000' portion from the hut to the snow would absolutely suck monkey poop in a heavy plastic since there is no snow. Both up and down.

[mtn_nut]

Did you guys summit? We made it on monday the 25th.

[CorduroyCalves]

Did you guys summit? We made it on monday the 25th.

Congrats.

Made it to 16,700' before high winds turned us back. I met up with some other Denver climbers who stayed another day so they might have.

Logan/Will/Philip/Alex, my phone was stolen in Mexico City so I don't have your contact info now. Please shoot me a PM; I'd love to hear how the rest of your week went.

[Somewhat of a Prick]

my phone was stolen in Mexico City

How did that happen?

[I Man]

Dereferenced and his partner summitted earlier this week, possibly over the weekend or Monday. They experienced good conditions and I think they were 5 hours from camp to summit.
Weather is iffy now, but they might try Ixta in a bit.

Derferenced is headed to Argentina after to solo Aconcagua.

[mtn_nut]

Dereferenced and his partner summitted earlier this week, possibly over the weekend or Monday. They experienced good conditions and I think they were 5 hours from camp to summit.
Weather is iffy now, but they might try Ixta in a bit.

Derferenced is headed to Argentina after to solo Aconcagua.

Im with Peter, Matt.

Weather was iffy on Tuesday, when we were originally shooting for the summit, so we accelerated our plans and summited on monday instead. Had good weather, blue skies and relatively light winds.

We camped at 15,100, and it was 5 hours from camp to the summit for us. We also picked up a third American at the base of the glacier and he summitted with us as well.

We're going for Izta on Friday morning.

-Ted

[CorduroyCalves]

my phone was stolen in Mexico City

How did that happen?

At a Metro station. There was a rush of people trying to get on and a bunch trying to get off, and I was caught in the middle. Someone just reached into my pocket and grabbed it. I typically would keep it in the zippered pocket of my backpack but I had been using it to get around since I took a photo of the subway map and was looking at it for reference. Lesson learned, I guess.

BTW, I summited La Malinche. A little more challenging given the amount of snow the region has seen but it was a fun climb. Luckily, I brought my crampons with me so the way down was a lot easier. One interesting thing I saw is a couple locals who had 8" knives sticking out of their back pockets, presumably to help on the snow. Saw another person with a screwdriver for the same purpose. Use what you have, I reckon.