Ecuador Circuit - Logistics/Planning/Info

[Hoocharoni]

Was wondering if anyone had any useful info on logistics services they've used in the past or general information concerning doing a circuit of Ecuador's volcanoes?

I am thinking of planning a future trip to do some combination of Rucu Pichincha, Bear's Peak, Cayambe, Illiniza Norte, Antisana, Cotopaxi, and finally Chimborazo over a 13-16 day period. If anyone has done this circuit before or has useful information on acquiring transportation to and from peaks, what worked/didnt work for them on their trip, hostels, entrance fees to parks, pack carry services to base camps, and any costs if you know them that would be greatly appreciated. Renting a car is an option, but using local transportation may be easier. Not trying to do this trip completely on the dirt cheap, but definitely trying to make it more of an adventure. Please no info on guided services.

[thatmushroom]

I was in Ecuador last fall, though I didn't do any climbing outside of Rucu Pichincha and Cerro Negro. Busses + taxis are the way to go in Ecuador. They're everywhere, and generally cheap.

You most likely will need a guide for some of it, FYI:

Starting Nov.12 2012 nobody is allowed to climb any glaciated mountain in Ecuador without hiring an accredited mountain guide. This restriction was issued by Ecuadorian Goverment after the last fatal accidents that happened in 2012 in Illiniza Sur and Norte.

From http://www.summitpost.org/cotopaxi/150311" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[SoCool]

Busses + taxis are the way to go

The problem with hiring a 4wd taxi is being bound to the pickup date and time. The weather can be very uncooperative, you may not always get a window on time.

[Scott P]

Please no info on guided services.

As pointed out, guides are mandatory, but this is really only enforced on the popular routes and peaks. If you are doing a difficult or unusual route, it usually isn't such a problem. You won't get away with it on the standard routes on the peaks you list.

If you do want to go without guides, there are better places in the Andes. Very few parts of the Andes have guide restrictions. It's basically Ecuador, the Cordillera Blanca, and a few peaks in the Lake District along the Chile/Argentina border. Except for Ecuador you can get around the restrictions with club memberships or gear checks.

pack carry services to base camps

None of those basecamps require more than an hour of walking to get there and most take less. I don't know why anyone would need a carry service.

PS, where is Bear's Peak?

[Fr3ako]

My buddy used High Summits last August to climb Cotopaxi & Chimbo:

http://highsummits.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

He was pretty happy with the company and guide even though weather sucked and he had to turn around. I'm joining him this November for another attempt, we will go through his Ecuadorian guide only this time, he'll get more money for himself.

EDIT: oups, no info on guides, discard my post

[Hoocharoni]

Thanks for the info everyone. I was aware of the guide requirement, but I had heard from different climbers that had been that there were ways around it. What kind of information are they looking for at the checkpoints? Surely American guides have some sort of pass or access that gets them around this requirement. Sounds like people are having different experiences on how it is enforced, and I am sure on the popular routes it would be more difficult.

I'll check out some of the guided services though in the meantime. Good luck Fr3ako I'll check back later to see how it went! Mind sharing the cost of the guide you all are using?

[Scott P]

Surely American guides have some sort of pass or access that gets them around this requirement.

American guiding companies hire local guides. There is usually only one American guide per team and the rest are local.

[Hoocharoni]

Gotcha. Might need to get a little more creative than I thought.

I'm not sure if Bear's Peak is the official name but it is another acclimatization hike surrounding Papallacta.

[desertdog]

These guys are good. They can handle just guiding, or transport and lodging too. http://www.andeanface.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am going to use them again in December.

[Scott P]

Might need to get a little more creative than I thought.

Instead of breaking/getting around the law (if that is your intention), why not just head somewhere else? South America is full of volcanoes and climbs similar to the ones in Ecuador.

I'm not saying this to discourage you, but you have to be careful making illegal ascents in other countries, even in South America.

[Hoocharoni]

The thought had crossed my mind. But ultimately you are right. Not worth the entire trip being scrubbed by not doing it right. Just really liked the way this circuit works out since you get to see a lot of peaks, aren't stuck to one for acclimatization, and the adventure of getting from one to the next. These types of trips never go as planned, but that is kind of the fun part.

I will definitely do some research into something else. Are you familiar with anything similar as far as a circuit goes elsewhere in South America?

Desertdog appreciate the link.

[Scott P]

Are you familiar with anything similar as far as a circuit goes elsewhere in South America?

It depends on your climbing skills, but you could do something similar for the volcanoes or other peaks in Bolivia, Southern Peru, or the Lake District (though the peaks aren't as high there), which would have peaks in the same difficulty range. A few peaks in the Lake District do require guides if you don't have a mountain or alpine club membership, but the membership is easy to obtain, so it's easy to get around. The other areas don't have any red tape-yet.

The volcanoes in Colombia are similar to the ones in Ecuador, except for the lack of people and crowds. Now days, Colombia isn't any more risky than places like Peru or Ecuador, and is probably even a bit safer except for a few areas which except for the Sierra Santa Marta don't have any mountains anyway.

Ecuador is still a nice place, and I enjoy the peaks there, but at least on the standard routes, it's a good idea to follow the rules. Actually, taking a guide isn't as bad as it sounds unless you go on a fixed date trip. You can also just hire a personal "climbing partner" that will climb with you on what ever peaks and routes you want and when you want. You don't have to go with a group with a set itinerary and a bunch of novice climbers (unless you want to).

When I went, I took a guide because I took my wife and she wasn't experienced in crevasse travel and she didn't want to climb some of the peaks. She staying in the hut reading her books and relaxing while I did some of the climbs. I didn't want to solo the peaks, so I found a local based guiding service and told them what peaks I wanted to climb and when I would be there. I told them I was experienced enough to just want a climbing partner type guide. It wasn't that expensive either since it included transport and arranging my own drop offs and pickups probably wouldn't have saved that much.