Aconcagua 2015/16

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pbakwin
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Re: Aconcagua 2015/16

Post by pbakwin »

herdbull wrote:Similar to Jornet's record "run" in '14 they don't actually run the whole way to the summit. Their pace is actually quite normal on the upper end of this climb.
Yes & no. They do not run probably much at all above Base Camp on the way up, that's true. However, the pace is insanely faster than most everyone. Kilian's time from BC was around 5:15. His walking pace to do that is probably 3X faster than most people and more than 2X faster than a fast person. Even Fernanda's much slower time of 9:50 to the summit from BC is way faster than most people.

Interestingly, Bruno Brunod and Jean Pellessier still have the fastest time from BC to the summit of 3:40 (RT in 4:52) in 2000. I don't know why the more recent people have all gone from the park entrance. To me it doesn't make much sense, as the character of the ascent is completely different above and below BC. Coming from the entrance you just add 30+ miles of "easy" trail running. Above BC it's a steep grunt. I think Brunod & Pellessier's accomplishment is the most impressive so far.

To me climbing Aconcagua from Base Camp seemed about the same distance as, say, Longs Peak via the Keyhole, but with 3500' additional gain and starting at the elevation of Longs' summit.
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cbrobin
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Re: Aconcagua 2015/16

Post by cbrobin »

Traveler wrote:
cbrobin wrote:
On 13 January 2016 at 12:30 PM I stood atop Cerro Aconcagua. Mrwaffles989 was atop earlier.
Congratulations to both of you! Sounds like it was a tough year to summit.
Yes it was. Phil and I (after almost two weeks on the mountain) spent a week at Nido (5500 metres) or higher. We saw Andy from Golden on our first attempt at the summit. Then a couple of days later the weather "cleared up" and we were able to summit. Between Portozeulo Del Viento (spanish for the windiest damn spot on earth) to La Cueva the winds were at least a sustained 75mph.

I met the person with the fifth fastest ascent time amongst the men. Truly incredible.
More Colorado than the Natives.
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cbrobin
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Re: Aconcagua 2015/16

Post by cbrobin »

I'd like to see a map that shows the route from Nido to the Polish Glacier.
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MountainHiker
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Re: Aconcagua 2015/16

Post by MountainHiker »

cbrobin wrote:I'd like to see a map that shows the route from Nido to the Polish Glacier.
Look at the map sample on this page:
http://www.stanfords.co.uk/Aconcagua-Co ... 9568887049" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image

There are several trails in various conditions not shown on this map. For instance you can head uphill in the direction of Piedras Blancas from Camp Colera.
Red, Rugged, and Rotten: The Elk Range - Borneman & Lampert
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Re: Aconcagua 2015/16

Post by dereferenced »

cbrobin wrote:I'd like to see a map that shows the route from Nido to the Polish Glacier.
This map gives the general idea:
http://www.climbingaconcagua.org/wp-con ... jpg?6ac7f1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You basically just start out on the high side of the camp at Nido, about 18400 feet, and follow a level path around the mountain. You can't really go too high, there's some cliff bands to block you, but you can mess it up by going too low. After you get about halfway around, the path starts descending towards the ameghino col. But you can also see the summit and the glacier from that point, so you can just leave the path and angle up towards the glacier.
ameghino
ameghino
IMG_6282_small.JPG (330.07 KiB) Viewed 3371 times
looking up, mid traverse
looking up, mid traverse
IMG_6285_small.JPG (206.73 KiB) Viewed 3371 times
polish glacier
polish glacier
IMG_6301_small.JPG (213.25 KiB) Viewed 3371 times
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cbrobin
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Re: Aconcagua 2015/16

Post by cbrobin »

Hey, Thanks for the maps. It would be interesting to ascend from Mulas, summit and then do the false Polish and down. The winds were pretty intense most of the time we were at Nido so we weren't likely to do the False Polish as a day hike.
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cbrobin
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Re: Aconcagua 2015/16

Post by cbrobin »

More Colorado than the Natives.
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