Boot Choice for Mont Blanc

[PolishPete]

Looking to some more experienced folks for info/advice.

I generally wear Raichle Mt Envy GTX boots when on climbs/hikes in Colorado, and wore my La Sportiva Spantik's on Mt. Rainier.

I'll be attempting Mont Blanc the first week of June, and not sure if the Raichle's will be "enough" boot, and pretty sure the Spantik's will be "too much" boot.

Ideally I'd like to be able to use the Raichle's. I've had them down to pretty cold temps in CO, and never had issues with the cold...but, it seems like most opt for a bit more of a boot, like the La Sportiva Nepal's or the Scarpa Mont Blanc's.

Thoughts on the boot choice?

Raichle Mt Envy GTX:

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La Sportiva Spantik:

SPYGB.jpg (196.29 KiB) Viewed 5756 times

[kaiman]

First let me preference this by saying that I haven't climbed Mount Blanc, but just looking at your boot choice I think you are probably correct that the Raichles are probably too light for a 15,000 foot glaciated peak like Mount Blanc and the Spantiks are overkill. I'm also wondering if the Raichles are crampon compatible?

I think you've answered your own question and should probably look at getting a pair of the Scarpa Mount Blancs or Nepal Cubes or Evos (depending on what fits you best).

I have the Nepal Evos and used them up to 18,500 feet on Orizaba a couple years ago at the end of November and they were perfect with temps in the 15-20 degree range. Those type of boots (the Mount Blancs and Nepals) seem to fit that niche of cold weather and higher altitude mountaineering well without being heavier double boots.

Just my two cents,

Kai

[Monster5]

Which route? Between those two, I'd personally choose the Raiches on the Gouter, but not on the other routes.

I haven't done Blanc due to avy conditions on the TMT at the time, but on peaks near Blanc, Nepals were great. Spantiks would've been major overkill. One of the advantages of doubles is that one can dry the inners at night, but that isn't a concern if using the refuges.

[PolishPete]

Gouter route.

Original plan was to bring a tent and camp (I know, not allowed, but sort of also allowed).

However, due to my partner having an injury several months ago, he wasn't able to start training for the climb until about 2 months out and he's unsure about carrying the extra weight due to possible lack of conditioning...so he text me the other day that he hopes I don't hate him and he booked spots for us in the Gouter hut. So....looks like more than likely we'll be staying in a hut.

Yes, the Raichles are crampon compatible. Used them with crampons many times without any issues in the past.

Thanks for the input. I hate to have to buy new (expensive) boots 1 month before a climb, and train in them to break them in on short notice. Also, I've never had an issue with the Raichles in 10 degrees F in CO (with blue level Smartwool socks)...but don't want to risk it either on an unkown peak in a different country.

If there's any other input, please keep it coming!

[desertdog]

I climbed MB last summer via the Gouter. I wore LS Nepal Evo's, which were perfect. It was very cold and windy on the day we summited in July. The Spantiks would be too much boot for sure, but if I had to chose between the Raiches and Spantiks, I would go with the Spantiks. What a bummer to have to turn around with cold feet in the Raiches. Actually, I did see a couple people in Spantiks.

Another option, there are a bunch of really big mountaineering shops in Chamonix. Some of the best I've been in. I bet you could rent some Evo's. Maybe email them.

Get ready for a fun trip! PM me if you have any other questions.

Richard

[PolishPete]

I climbed MB last summer via the Gouter. I wore LS Nepal Evo's, which were perfect. It was very cold and windy on the day we summited in July. The Spantiks would be too much boot for sure, but if I had to chose between the Raiches and Spantiks, I would go with the Spantiks. What a bummer to have to turn around with cold feet in the Raiches. Actually, I did see a couple people in Spantiks.

Another option, there are a bunch of really big mountaineering shops in Chamonix. Some of the best I've been in. I bet you could rent some Evo's. Maybe email them.

Get ready for a fun trip! PM me if you have any other questions.

Richard

Thanks for the info.

There are shops that you could rent boots/gear from...however, rental boots scare me. Having uncomfortable feet in rental boots (getting hot spots, sores, etc) would be miserable.

Maybe I should just fork up the $ for some Nepal Evo type boots and just have that middle of the range boot in my gear arsenal for the future anyway.

[Gabriel]

I have climbed Mont Blanc twice. Once on the Gouter and once on the standard route from Italy which starts at the Gonella Hut. Both times I wore the same pair of Vasque Alpine uninsulated mountaineering boots which were warm enough for the conditions. I would recommend the Raichle boots which look uninsulated, which is what I always use for summer climbing in the alps. If you stick to the Gouter you could also use a pair of hiking boots with strap on crampons so you don't have to travel with multiple pairs of boots. I'm assuming you'll want to do some hiking in the Chamonix area.

I stayed at the Tete Rouse hut when I did the Gouter, rather than the Gouter hut which was a pleasant, less crowded option, but it makes for a longer summit day.

Have fun,

G

[PolishPete]

I have climbed Mont Blanc twice. Once on the Gouter and once on the standard route from Italy which starts at the Gonella Hut. Both times I wore the same pair of Vasque Alpine uninsulated mountaineering boots which were warm enough for the conditions. I would recommend the Raichle boots which look uninsulated, which is what I always use for summer climbing in the alps. If you stick to the Gouter you could also use a pair of hiking boots with strap on crampons so you don't have to travel with multiple pairs of boots. I'm assuming you'll want to do some hiking in the Chamonix area.

I stayed at the Tete Rouse hut when I did the Gouter, rather than the Gouter hut which was a pleasant, less crowded option, but it makes for a longer summit day.

Have fun,

G

Thanks for the info.

Some folks say they're fine in un-insulated boots, others say the insulated boots are a must. Makes my decision making very difficult!

I've used the Raichle's on a few very cold hikes/climbs in CO. Never had an issue. But I used them twice snowmobiling, and my feet were freezing (yes, there's a lot less movement to generate heat while snowmobiling, but you still do move around a lot and sweat/need to regulate heat for the upper body. Feet were still cold though).

[kaiman]

Maybe I should just fork up the $ for some Nepal Evo type boots and just have that middle of the range boot in my gear arsenal for the future anyway.

As I posted earlier, this seems like the most sensible option to me. I don't know what your long range mountaineering goals are, but purchasing a boot like this will serve you well for many future climbs in the Cascades, Andes, Colorado winters, Canadian Rockies etc.

I know it's a lot of money to drop before a trip like this, but on the other hand it's cheaper than dropping another $3000-4000 grand again to go back to Mont Blanc because you couldn't summit in the Raichles. Plus IMO it's always good to err on the side of caution (I like my toes and want to keep them), and prepare for the worst while expecting the best.

As far as breaking in a new pair of boots goes, this seems like the perfect time of year to do this. It only took a couple of days to break in mine, and with about 1-2 months to go and the snow conditions in Colorado consolidating for the spring you should be able to get out quite a bit between now and your trip to break them in.

I'm not not trying to sell you on a new pair of boots but it does seem like this is the right time to add something like this to your quiver. Consider them an investment in your mountaineering career.

Kai

[martinleroux]

You could also consider a pair of these: http://www.backcountry.com/salomon-s-la ... -boot-mens. About half the weight of the Raichle Envys. Although it would help if your name's Kilian Jornet. Have a look at https://youtu.be/PSWb9Zs42is?t=38

In all seriousness, that's what I'm planning to use in the Bugaboos this summer.

[pvnisher]

I did Blanc via Gouter a few years ago, and have done a number of other assorted Alps peaks. For everything BUT Mt Blanc, I would have been fine in uninsulated, crampon-compatible boots. But for Blanc I would have really suffered. It's high, and cold. We passed a few guided groups wearing Himalayan down suits, which seemed ridiculous. But it was very cold.

Like many things, if you get great weather, low wind, don't get stuck behind slow groups, can stay healthy, hydrated, and fed, then yes, you might be just fine in uninsulated boots.
But if it's cold, extra windy, you have to move slow for whatever reason, your water freezes, etc, and things don't go as planned, suddenly those uninsulated boots will be a serious liability.

If/When I go back, I would wear Nepals or Blancs, not even a question for me.

[B_2]

Hi PP,
My husband and I climbed July 2014, a day after a meter of snow fell on the hill and snow/rain our entire route to the Gouter! I wore my plain ole LaSportiva Trangos with gaiters, heavy duty socks/liners, and he has some sort of gore-tex Lowa pair and both of us were fine. He has a pair of older LaSportiva Nepal EVOs, which he was glad he did not wear due to the extra weight. I suspect the new ones are probably lighter. One French guide did stop me and ask if my feet were warm enough because he has a pair of Trangos and found they were sometimes not warm enough, but for some reason I didn't have a problem and I am always the cold one. Maybe I was working too hard up there! lol I know that is conflicting info, but I guess my opinion is that you do not need a Himalayan level of protection...Bon chance et bon courage!