Training for Longs Peak

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Yoric
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Training for Longs Peak

Post by Yoric »

I've set a goal for myself to climb Longs this year in early August. I'm looking for some ideas to get more comfortable with class 3 climbs in the Front Range before setting out on Longs (<2.5 hours from North Metro area). I've climbed a few of the easier 14ers (Beirstadt, Decalibron, NW ridge of Evans) and some class 2 13ers. I have limited experience on rock up to class 5.8.

I was thinking about doing the Arapahoe traverse after the snow clears a bit more. Any other ideas for short class 3 exposure?

Thanks!
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SolarAlex
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by SolarAlex »

the arapahoe traverse is much, much harder than longs peak. Longs Peak is actually very little class 3. Its just long.

for practice, maybe try pettingel or father dyer peak. both have easy class 3 ridges but theres a lot of options to bypass the scrambling if you don't want to do it.
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by d_baker »

SolarAlex wrote:the arapahoe traverse is much, much harder than longs peak. Longs Peak is actually very little class 3. Its just long.

for practice, maybe try pettingel or father dyer peak. both have easy class 3 ridges but theres a lot of options to bypass the scrambling if you don't want to do it.
really? Arapaho traverse is harder? I haven't been up Longs, but isn't there a lot more exposure on Longs? I thought the Arapaho traverse didn't have much exposure and the scrambling would be a good intro for a beginner.
And imo, Father Dyer is way easy. Just can't imagine it's a good warm up, but again, I haven't been up Longs.
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Liquid Shadow
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by Liquid Shadow »

I agree with SolarAlex, Longs really isn't bad compared to the Arapaho traverse.

Try Kelso ridge on Torreys, great class 3 route and a lot of fun.

Although if you can climb up to a 5.8, I think you will be fine on Longs.
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SolarAlex
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by SolarAlex »

everyone has different opinions on various routes...i felt like the scrambling on the arapahoe traverse was much harder than what I found on longs. We only made it about 2/3rds of the way across the traverse due to a storm, but from what I remember of it, it was pretty exposed in places. Longs is tough when you factor in the distance but the actual scrambling is pretty easy.
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kman
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by kman »

[quote="d_baker" I haven't been up Longs,[/quote]
Damn Darin, that's almost criminal! When we going??
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by d_baker »

Yeah I remember a couple of places on the Arapaho traverse that I thought gave a scrambler some challenge but I thought a fall would not result in big consequences. My comment about Father Dyer was poorly worded too. It's an "easy scramble" and is also a good intro for a beginner. I think the consequences of a fall on that ridge are also minimal.
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by d_baker »

kman wrote:
d_baker wrote: I haven't been up Longs,
Damn Darin, that's almost criminal! When we going??
I don't know.....but I grew up in a state that borders Canada, so I think I might do ok up there. ;)
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Yoric
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by Yoric »

Thanks for all the replies so far. I think that the actual technical aspect of class 3 is not my concern. As Liquid Shadow pointed out, if I can climb 5.8, class 3 shouldn't be difficult. I'm more concern with getting over the unroped "pucker" factor associated with exposure.
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kman
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by kman »

d_baker wrote:
kman wrote:
d_baker wrote: I haven't been up Longs,
Damn Darin, that's almost criminal! When we going??
I don't know.....but I grew up in a state that borders Canada, so I think I might do ok up there. ;)
Ha! Well, we don't have to do the "Frappier Route!" Let me know. Sorry to get off-track OP.
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by Brian C »

If you ever need a partner shoot me a pm. I'd be happy to go do some scrambling routes.

BC
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Carl
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Re: Training for Longs Peak

Post by Carl »

If you don't think you'll like exposed class 3 you could just pick a route without any. I took my wife up the north face for this reason. She would have hated the Keyhole with the unroped exposure but enjoyed the easy class five (on belay) on the north face. It's class 2 before and after the technical climbing.
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