Training for Longs Peak

[PaliKona]

Is the exposure on the Loft Route more than Keyhole?

[Liquid Shadow]

Is the exposure on the Loft Route more than Keyhole?

I believe so. I have never done the Loft but from all the readings I've done, it sounds like the Loft is slightly harder than the Keyhole, with a little bit of class 4 thrown in near the top of the Loft gully, plus route finding from the loft to the homestretch can be quite confusing (Clark's Arrow). The Keyhole route is pretty much the easiest way up Longs, not the fastest, but one where the majority of people can handle.

[akoller]

If you don't think you'll like exposed class 3 you could just pick a route without any. I took my wife up the north face for this reason. She would have hated the Keyhole with the unroped exposure but enjoyed the easy class five (on belay) on the north face. It's class 2 before and after the technical climbing.

This. If you are a climber, climb the north face. You will avoid the summer weekend crowds and have a much more enjoyable time than doing the keyhole. Just make sure the weather is good (for any Longs attempt this is the most important factor IMO).

[FCSquid]

Is the exposure on the Loft Route more than Keyhole?

The Loft route is a bit harder than the Keyhole. The exit ramps at the top to the couloir can hold ice all summer long - and offer a bit of exposure. Also, the route-finding downclimbing near Clark's Arrow can be tricky (I screwed it up).

That having been said, if you have the skill to climb the Keyhole route, the Loft really is about in the same ballpark. I highly recommend the Loft as you won't see anyone else on the mountain until you get to the Homestretch. Solitude on Longs is a rarity these days.

[peter303]

I find it is an issue of endurance. By the time you find parking which snakes a mile down the road, it is likely 17 miles round trip with a mile of uphill hiking. I found it to be similar effort to runing a marathon when you take the thin air into account.
So I recommend do some 8-10 hours hikes above treeline before trying Longs in August.

[PaliKona]

I'm trying to decide whether to go for the Loft Route or stick with Keyhole. I've never done Longs, and have very minimal class 3 experience. I will be going with someone that does. I have almost 20 14ers under my belt but none over class 2.
Loft looks awesome and I like that it's a bit shorter than Keyhole, but I worry I'll freeze up on the ledges below the loft or in the area dropping down to Kep's Couloir, or above en route to Homestretch. Should I stick to the Keyhole for my first experience and save Loft for another time?

[Broken Knee]

PaliKona, I think the Loft would seem longer, in part due to the amount of off-trail ground to cover. Routefinding is difficult on the Loft. But it's an awesome route! The Keyhole can be quite congested - you won't have that problem on the Loft!

[SeattleHc100er]

Loft looks awesome and I like that it's a bit shorter than Keyhole, but I worry I'll freeze up on the ledges below the loft or in the area dropping down to Kep's Couloir, or above en route to Homestretch. Should I stick to the Keyhole for my first experience and save Loft for another time?

Just do The Loft route, and without fear! I did the Loft route as a reattempt at my first summit, 3 days after my misguided backwoods adventures through the Wild Basin left me too tired and bewildered to go up Keps Couloir within the time frame I had given myself. I had the same exact fears when coming up the Ship's Prow ( freezing up on the ledges ). The ledges look like class 4 from distance. But most of it is actually low to mid class 3 with very solid hand holds and a a myriad of different lines to choose. You can't see the ramp up to the Loft until you get close, which is actually fairly wide for the terrain it is on, basically a walk up. If you're going with someone with experience, it will be fine. The route finding is key though. Make sure to use frequent vantage points over rocks and ledges when descending off the Loft into Keps Couloir. I have a couple of go pro videos of the Loft descent and Keps Couloir on youtube for reference if you want to check them out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOVbAlA ... rtqqichqv1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ( Loft downclimb ), https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsA2PMQhJj4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ( Upper Keps ), https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLFqhYcOCJ8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ( The ledges up to the Loft ramp )