How to get comfortable with Class 3

[ericcc65]

Thinking about it a little more, maybe going with a big group isn't helping. There's a tendency to just follow along without really making decisions, and then when you're faced with something harder you haven't really learned what to do. Perhaps going out with just one partner would help.

btw, Bierstadt east ridge is also a bad early choice IMO. Better to pick a route from which you can retreat if necessary.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. The group size might be an issue, but usually we have no more than 5-6 and we separate into a faster group and a slower group. So in the faster group there might be 3-4 of us at most. But that is definitely enough for group dynamics, peer pressure, etc. to emerge.

[DoctorBreaks]

Hey man, when I first started hiking and scrambling I just went on class 1 trails and whenever I would see random sections of rock that didn't look too bad I would climb them and just work on small stuff like that to build confidence. My first class 3 was the Tour De Abyss and I will tell you what, Bierstadts E ridge is tough. I was really overwhelmed, but I just pushed on and focused on the climbing. Try not to worry about the exposure so much. It really helps to be completely focused on what's ahead of you and not so much on what is below you. I now am not scared of exposure I run into. I did Wetterhorn and even though it is ranked as a pretty exposed 14er I loved it! Favorite route to date. You get better by just doing it. At least in my experience it gets better and better every time.

[Jesse M]

Some great suggestions and ideas in this thread. I would like to add something like Fletcher Mountain Southeast Ridge from the Blue Lakes TH. Although not rated Class 3, my idea is that you can play around in many spots finding some fun stuff to climb on. The route is rated Class 2 but, there are many spots just off trail that could give you practice on harder climbing without much exposure. Just make sure you can always climb down what you choose to go up. Also, you will get a great view of Quandary Peak West Ridge. A helmet might be a good idea to help make you more comfortable.

[jdharper5]

I hadn't seen anyone mention Kelso Ridge on Torrey's Peak yet. I felt that route helped a bunch as it was a relatively quick class 3 route, offers some minor exposure, and does not require any down climbing. Once on top of Torreys the standard route can be used to descend. People often get nervous when the hear the term 'knife edge', but this move on Torreys is short and offers that little bit of exposure to get you used to climbing on some of the tougher class 3 routes. Also, route finding is not particularly difficult so your energy can be focused on the actual climbing instead of always concerning yourself with where to go next.

[Broken Knee]

On many Class 3s and 4s there is not any great places to put protection where it is actually going to help you.

Actually, most class 3 and 4 I've been on has plenty of natural pro, like boulders you can stand behind or tie into. Classic class 4 routes typically have natural pro on the ledges that mark the end of the pitch, for example.

[Derek_Cisler]

On the topic of exposure, there was a good thread earlier this year with recommendations, advice, and humor:

http://www.14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=43691


Derek Cisler
St. Charles, MO

[highpilgrim]

Climb as frequently as you can. The fastest and easiest way to get comfortable with more difficult climbing is to keep exposing yourself to more difficult terrain as often as you can. If you do this you will start to desensitize yourself to the fear related to exposure and will become more self-assured in your climbing skills.

Practice, and persistence are key.

Just DO them! If you overreach, you can turn around whenever you choose.

[thurs]

On many Class 3s and 4s there is not any great places to put protection where it is actually going to help you.

Actually, most class 3 and 4 I've been on has plenty of natural pro, like boulders you can stand behind or tie into. Classic class 4 routes typically have natural pro on the ledges that mark the end of the pitch, for example.

True, but what I more meant by that is pro is only going to keep you from falling off the mountain entirely -- due to the slabby incline/ledge system/pile-o-rock, falling above your pro (unless you are going really slowly and placing a lot of it) is going to be just about as painful as falling without pro. Definitely places where it could be useful to prevent serious issues and promote confidence but I'm more thinking the fast-paced upwards scrambling where you'll be above the pro a lot of the time anyways. It's a more nuanced point, you're right.

[Broken Knee]

True, but what I more meant by that is pro is only going to keep you from falling off the mountain entirely -- due to the slabby incline/ledge system/pile-o-rock, falling above your pro (unless you are going really slowly and placing a lot of it) is going to be just about as painful as falling without pro. Definitely places where it could be useful to prevent serious issues and promote confidence but I'm more thinking the fast-paced upwards scrambling where you'll be above the pro a lot of the time anyways. It's a more nuanced point, you're right.

I take 4th class by the original style definition - no intermediate pro, belays at end of each "pitch". As soon as you place intermediate pro, it jumps to 5th class. Some climbers consider simuclimbing to be 4th class but I find that misleading because the risk is inherently higher.

[ericcc65]

Really showing my ignorance here but what does "pro" mean?

[jomagam]

Really showing my ignorance here but what does "pro" mean?

protection

[LetsGoMets]

Quandary West Ridge is longer and more sustained actual route finding. A couple times we had to backtrack on that route to higher ground because I feel like the route "naturally" pushes one to the climbers left , which is where you can typically get in trouble. The route finding on the NW ridge of Lindsey is very straight forward , but the actual climbing on the crux (I felt) was more of a climb than anything on the West Ridge presented. Don't forget also you have to descend Lindsey, and both routes can be intimidating. The west ridge your typically taking the class .5 route down.