Class 3

[LarryM]

The cave itself is closed. I think the scramble to it is open.

The last time I was up there was (I think) last summer or fall, and recall the closure being just a little above the Der Zerkle climbing area. I don't recall anything resembling 3rd class on any portions of the opened trail, though there should be plenty on the plethora of small flatirons scattered about (just be careful, as the boundary between 3rd and 4th and 5th is not always that clear on those rocks).

I've been up there 2 or 3 times recently - unless I missed a closure sign, the trail is open to the cave.

The class 3 bit that everyone is talking about is the short ramp to the cave itself at the very end. There's also (apparently) a class 3 bit further up Dinosaur Mountain, but it's in the raptor closure area.

Edit - What sounds really cool is this: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tangen ... /105758970" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

After July 31.

[MaxKugel]

For the Flatirons, Sunset Flatironette has a route that is third class. It is the descent described here: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/south- ... /105756631. I used Free shot on Der Freischutz as a downclimb and it is certainly not third class. Be prepared for low fifth class if you go up there. Nebel Horn has a good class 3 route, but I think it is currently closed. I recall the top part of Horsetooth Mountain in Fort Collins being class 3, but I haven't been up there in a while. Mallory Cave is short and not exposed.

[HULKHIKEGOOD]

How does the exposure on Eolus and N. Eolus rate as compared to say, Kelso Ridge or other "easier" routes? I guess what I am asking is, is this doable as a first 3rd class route? I want to finally get to Chicago basin but I am afraid I will be limited to just Windom with my current experience level. Any advice is greatly appreciated, not trying to steal thunder from OP, just curious.

[TravelingMatt]

How does the exposure on Eolus and N. Eolus rate as compared to say, Kelso Ridge or other "easier" routes? I guess what I am asking is, is this doable as a first 3rd class route? I want to finally get to Chicago basin but I am afraid I will be limited to just Windom with my current experience level. Any advice is greatly appreciated, not trying to steal thunder from OP, just curious.

Eolus is full-on extended Class 3, not "have to use your hands for balance sometimes" like Longs or "one kinda tricky 30-foot move" like Wetterhorn. North Eolus along the catwalk is more like Class 2+. I wouldn't want to make the effort to go into Chicago Basin and have Eolus be where you figure out how scrambling works, put it that way.

[HULKHIKEGOOD]

I wouldn't want to make the effort to go into Chicago Basin and have Eolus be where you figure out how scrambling works, put it that way.

Exactly the answer I was looking for, Thanks!

[mr_Chris]

The cave itself is closed. I think the scramble to it is open.

The last time I was up there was (I think) last summer or fall, and recall the closure being just a little above the Der Zerkle climbing area. I don't recall anything resembling 3rd class on any portions of the opened trail, though there should be plenty on the plethora of small flatirons scattered about (just be careful, as the boundary between 3rd and 4th and 5th is not always that clear on those rocks).

I've been up there 2 or 3 times recently - unless I missed a closure sign, the trail is open to the cave.

The class 3 bit that everyone is talking about is the short ramp to the cave itself at the very end. There's also (apparently) a class 3 bit further up Dinosaur Mountain, but it's in the raptor closure area.

Edit - What sounds really cool is this: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tangen ... /105758970" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

After July 31.

Just hiked up there this morning. There is a big net across the top of a maybe 30 foot (class 3?) scramble that is impossible to miss, and I assume the cave is just past that. So cave is still closed, but the scramble up is still accessible.

[Lville]

A few thoughts:
-Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but the Jason Haas book "Climbing Boulder's Flatirons" is excellent. It's geared primarily for technical (Class 5) climbing, but it has some Class 4 and a very small selection of Class 3. There are several of these books on the Flatirons, but that one is maybe my fave as the graphics are quite good.

-The second flatiron, mentioned already I think, is a great place to go for Class 4 or low Class 5, but can get sketchy quickly if you're not careful.

-To your original question, since you're in Boulder, a quick easy place to go is what has always been referred to as "red rocks" (not the concert venue) above Settler's Park at the base of Canyon. You may have already scrambled around up there and didn't realize you were on Class 3 rock. But if you go to the top of some of those rocks, you've just climbed Class 3, and I would maintain that a few of the moves are Class 4. So you can try a little of both, with not too much commitment - while still feeling like you're in a place where you can look down and realize that a fall would have consequences.

-if the bat cave or whatever is what I think it is, it's quite a hike and not much there. I'd head up to red rocks before I went there, unless you were in the area to explore some other Class 3/4 stuff that is nearby.

-if you find any really cool spots and want some company, let me know. I'm nearby and like to scramble. Again, second flatiron is cool Class 4, but while I've done it several times now, I'm still not 100% comfortable on it as the final moves don't have great handholds like the rest of it does.

Hope that helps!

[polar]

Here’s how I would rate the class 3 14er routes close to Denver, based purely on scrambling difficulty (not on distance, route finding, etc) - least to most difficult:
Sawtooth
Bierstadt East Ridge
Kelso Ridge
Keyhole Route on Longs
Quandary West Ridge

In terms of exposure, I’d rate them like so - least to most exposed:
Sawtooth
Kelso Ridge
Bierstadt East Ridge
Quandary West Ridge
Keyhole Route

Of rouse this is highly subjective. Tour d’Abyss is basically doing Bierstadt East Ridge and Sawtooth on the same day. So the scrambling difficulty (not accounting for the distance) and exposure would be the same as Bierstadt East Ridge.

Edited to clarify the order of the list.

[CO Native]

Assuming you ranked those from most difficult to least and most exposure to least Polar?

[jaymz]

Ha, I was thinking least to most on difficulty, most to least on exposure.

[vandy]

And I was thinking it was least to most on both lists.

In either case, I personally think the West Ridge on Quandary is the toughest 14'er scrambling near Denver. It's so easy to get into lousy rock on that route. Still great fun though.

[polar]

Sorry, I wasn't clear on what order I rated them. I've added that clarification now. But that's my personal opinion, I'm sure if you ask ten different people to rate them, you'll get ten different answers.