Class 3

[LarryM]

Again, thanks for so many good suggestions.

I was considering Kelso Ridge even before posting this, but it looks like the crux is a very exposed section that makes me quite nervous. I'm guessing it isn't as bad as it sounds?

On a somewhat related note - I'm planning a Berthoud Pass to St. Mary's Glacier hike this summer. The one section that somewhat concerns me is the traverse from Bancroft to James. How does this compare to some of the routes discussed here, in terms of class and exposure? Is it even class 3?

[SoCool]

the traverse from Bancroft to James

Maybe barely class 3, not much exposure. As usual, it looks much more difficult from a distance.

[jaymz]

Again, thanks for so many good suggestions.

I was considering Kelso Ridge even before posting this, but it looks like the crux is a very exposed section that makes me quite nervous. I'm guessing it isn't as bad as it sounds?

I'm not sure how bad it sounds, but it's really nothing too extreme. There's a small knife edge and then a short, slightly exposed class 4ish move (at least what I did.. I think there are a few variations there), but it's all really solid rock.
It really relates to what the others are saying regarding the mental aspect. If you're freaked out, it's going to be scary. For me, when I got up on the knife edge, I was surprised at how close the rocks below were - it didn't seem as exposed as the route descriptions I read made it out to be.

[SchralpTheGnar]

I'd define class 3 as where you might use your hands for balance (vs. pulling up on hand holds).

This is why West Coast climbers laugh at us.

No one is laughing at tommy Caldwell

[Tornadoman]

For 14ers I would start with Wetterhorn as it is a shorter section of class 3 and the views are hard to beat. Then maybe onto Kelso Ridge.

The OP asked for minimum exposure on their first class 3. Wetterhorn does not fit that bill. The exposure on the final pitch is substantial.

Wilson Peak has some fun class 3 terrain and the exposure is fairly limited.

I respectfully disagree on Wetterhorn. I think the exposure on Wetterhorn is no worse than other class 3 routes. My wife who isn't the biggest fan of exposure had no issues with it while she turned around on Longs Keyhole route due to exposure, really struggled on El Diente's south slopes, etc. The final pitch on Wetterhorn is the most overrated portion of any 14er route that I have experienced. That pitch is like climbing a ladder with much better holds.

[dpage]

There's a page that groups routes by exposure...
http://www.14ers.com/routes_byexposure.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CO Native]

For 14ers I would start with Wetterhorn as it is a shorter section of class 3 and the views are hard to beat. Then maybe onto Kelso Ridge.

The OP asked for minimum exposure on their first class 3. Wetterhorn does not fit that bill. The exposure on the final pitch is substantial.

Wilson Peak has some fun class 3 terrain and the exposure is fairly limited.

I respectfully disagree on Wetterhorn. I think the exposure on Wetterhorn is no worse than other class 3 routes. My wife who isn't the biggest fan of exposure had no issues with it while she turned around on Longs Keyhole route due to exposure, really struggled on El Diente's south slopes, etc. The final pitch on Wetterhorn is the most overrated portion of any 14er route that I have experienced. That pitch is like climbing a ladder with much better holds.

It's not the route itself that has the exposure on Wetterhorn, but the exposure comes when you cross through the notch and are standing on the ledge at the base of the last pitch. In fact the trail is really just class 1 where the exposure it at its greatest before you start climbing the last pitch. No where on Mt Wilson do you have to stand that close to that big of a drop.

[vandy]

The first class 3 route I did, besides the 20 feet or so on Bear Peak, was the Arapaho Peaks traverse. I thought it was a great introduction. You get a decent amount of class 3 to play around with, and you can make it harder if you want to. Some people rate the hardest move as class 4, but I thought that was overstated. In any event, that particular move is not very exposed (although the section immediately after will give you a reasonable amount of exposure to test yourself with). The best part is, if you feel uncomfortable and want to turn around at any point, you've already bagged a nice summit for the day (South Arapaho Peak).

Only bad part is the 4th of July road.

[mtree]

Exposure is a funny thing. I've seen it turn arrogant blowhards into squealing babies.

If you're just looking for class 3 practice without alot of exposure, Lindsey may fit the bill. Standard route, but stay out of the gully. Climb to the right of it the entire way. Good class 3 rock and you avoid the gully hazards.

If its exposure that you really need to get used to, that's another story. (It may never happen.) Climb Challenger/Kit Carson and you'll get your fill of exposure without the difficulty. The nice thing about Kit Carson is you can crawl on your belly if you freak!

[kaiman]

I'd define class 3 as where you might use your hands for balance (vs. pulling up on hand holds).

This is why West Coast climbers laugh at us.

Having climbed almost half the 14ers in California by their "CA Class 3" routes (Mount Whitney, Mount Muir, Mount Langely, Mount Russell, Mount Tyndall, Mount Shasta), I can tell you that CA Class 3 is really not that much different then CO Class 3. Plus the rock in CA (in the Sierras at least) is more solid then many of the CO Class 3 routes in the Elks, San Juans, or Gore Ranges.

As to the OP's original question, I would agree with the suggestions for Father Dyer with a descent over Crystal, the traverse from Bancroft to James (I would only classify this as Class 2+), and Kelso Ridge.

For 14ers I would also add the Sawtooth Traverse between Bierstadt and Evans (although there is some exposure for 50-75 feet on the Evans end most of it stays on the less exposed side of the ridge), and Crestone Peak (the majority of the scrambling is in the mid angle Red Gully on some of the most solid rock in Colorado).

For 13ers, Tijera's Northwest Ridge in the Sangre de Cristo's (Mostly Class 2 with a 100 feet or so of Class 3 at the top) and Pettingell Peak's East Ridge (short Class 2+/3 section but otherwise Class 2).

There are so many other great routes but they probably have more exposure than you want initially, so really getting into Class 3 climbing will probably require you to deal with (and hopefully eventually overcome) your fear of exposure. I share your pain though. I have a fear of heights that I've pretty much overcome in the past 15-20 years through scrambling/climbing by just remembering that most routes look harder then they really are. Once I am on the route the easiest/best path is pretty evident and I am not afraid to back off if necessary. I also enjoy looking back after scrambling/climbing something and realizing that it was more fun than difficult, as this gives me confidence for then next scramble or climb.

Good luck and have fun!

Kai

[Tornadoman]

CoNative, I think your picture of Wetterhorn with the snow makes it look a lot worse than normal, and normally it looks worse than it actually is. I guess it depends on how you view exposure. To me exposure on both sides (Kelso Ridge), or even on one side for a longer stretch like the Narrows and Ledges sections on Longs is more 'real' than exposure at my back. I could see someone having somewhat of a tougher time going down Wetterhorn than up as the exposure is more in your face on the descent as in 'wow that's a long ways down', although downclimbing it facing in may mitigate some of those concerns. Anywho, if the OP thinks that the exposure on Wetterhorn would be a concern there are certainly lots of other fun peaks to try....

Interested in your view on Wilson Peak which I haven't done, I always gathered that it was at least the equal of Wetterhorn exposure wise and on worse rock. I guess there is one way to find out how they personally compare for me.

[SchralpTheGnar]

The op asks about scrambles close to denver, class 3
With minimal exposure and we are now talking about whether or not the final section of wetter horn is truly exposed or not. Fortunately conversations with my 5 year old make this seem perfectly normal.

For the op if recommend kelso ridge ,
Nice easy class. 3 with minimal exposures, also check
Out east ridge in boerdstdt
For non alpine check out the flat irons