roping in for winter ridges

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cyrrus
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roping in for winter ridges

Post by cyrrus »

Why do people rope in for winter ridges? I get that if you fall through a cornice, if someone catches you on the rope team that would be optimal. However, given the high speed of descent, wouldn't there be a high probability of pulling the whole rope team with you into the abyss? Can someone break this down for me?
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kansas
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Re: roping in for winter ridges

Post by kansas »

It's easier to catch a fall than what you're imagining. Most falls are just slips and it takes a couple seconds for someone to pick up speed. The trick is to keep a close eye on your partner and be ready to catch them before they get going too fast.

Sure, there is a chance the whole team goes, but personally, I'm more comfortable trusting my partners to have my back. Brotherhood of the rope.
"In the end, of course, it changed almost nothing. But I came to appreciate that mountains make poor receptacles for dreams."
— Jon Krakauer
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I Man
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Re: roping in for winter ridges

Post by I Man »

kansas wrote:It's easier to catch a fall than what you're imagining. Most falls are just slips and it takes a couple seconds for someone to pick up speed. The trick is to keep a close eye on your partner and be ready to catch them before they get going too fast.

Sure, there is a chance the whole team goes, but personally, I'm more comfortable trusting my partners to have my back. Brotherhood of the rope.
This. A whole lot of things about that sort of climbing baffle some, but when you start climbing with those who you do these adventures with, it'll make sense. It's also not always unprotected simulclimbing.
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.

I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
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kansas
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Re: roping in for winter ridges

Post by kansas »

I Man wrote: It's also not always unprotected simulclimbing.
True, I should have added that a lot of times you will have some pro in as well when the climbing gets a little sketchy.
"In the end, of course, it changed almost nothing. But I came to appreciate that mountains make poor receptacles for dreams."
— Jon Krakauer
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Broken Knee
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Re: roping in for winter ridges

Post by Broken Knee »

Zbigniew Twardowski told me that growing up climbing ridges in Poland, he was taught that if your partner fell to the left, you jumped down to the right. And vice versa...
When life gets you down, climb!
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