What makes the standard route the "standard" route?

[coloradoman]

Sometimes on 14ers there are some that have multiple routes up them. Usually the standard route is the easiest but sometimes it looks like there are shorter easier routes on them that don't have the little star next to them. First of all in the route selection on a particular 14 (la plata peak for example http://www.14ers.com/routelist.php?peak=La+Plata+Peak" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) does the star represent the standard route? There is a star next to the northwest ridge. It has more elevation gain and a longer distance than the southwest ridge. Wouldn't it be easier to do this route instead so shouldn't this be considered the standard route? I just don't understand why the star is there and what the criteria is for the "standard" route.

Another example would be pikes peak, one route is 26 miles and considered the standard route, the other is around 10.

[GregMiller]

Whatever gets climbed the most. This is typically driven by access and/or difficulty. Yes the star indicates a 'standard route' (if you're on a computer, hover your mouse over it and that's what it says). My guess, in the case of La Plata, is it's an access thing - the NW Ridge is easier to access, the TH is right off CO-82, whereas the SW Ridge TH is at the end of a dirt road. Same thing for Pikes - the East Slope (Barr Trail) route leaves from CO Springs (effectively), rather than an out-of-the-way trailhead on the West side of the mountain up a dirt road.

Another example is Mt. Massive - the standard route is the longer East Slopes route, rather than the shorter Southwest Slopes route - the East Slopes route follows an easier trail around the mountain, rather than a more direct route up a (slightly) steeper, looser route. Also, the TH is further up a 4WD road.

Honestly, a route being marked as 'Standard' usually means more crowds, so it's usually the route I avoid if possible (get off the beaten path, and all that). If you're looking for more routes (beyond what Bill has on here), I'd definitely recommend Gerry Roach's 14ers guide, has a lot more routes in it, and some great linkups and optional summits along the way.

[Jon Frohlich]

Kind of expanding on what Greg said it's mostly because of access, trail conditions, difficulty, and in some cases historical reasons. Most of the standard route trailheads are the easiest to reach or have the most parking available. For example, the Three Elk route on Columbia is a far better route than the 'standard' but there is very little parking and there is no trail the entire way. Even the Frenchman Creek route up Columbia is better but, again, little parking and a 4wd road.

There are reasons for them to be standard but depending on your point of view they aren't always 'best'.

[Oman]

An interesting question. In the time since I moved to Colorado (1985), standard routes have changed on several peaks.

Sometimes this is because new trails were built to replace badly eroded old ones. The standard route used to be Jennings Creek up Tabeguache, then on to Shavano, as opposed to the current East Slopes standard route that sends you up Shavano first.

Sometimes this is because of landowner changes. I think the standard route on Little Bear used to be via private land to the east. The standard trailhead also changed within the past 10 years on Wilson Peak because of landowner / access issues.

Sometimes this is because there is a new author of a better trail guide (Borneman had the standard route for Kit Carson via South Colony Lakes and Bear's Playground, but Roach replaced it with the current and easier Willow Lake approach).

And sometimes it's because someone has figured out an easier and safer route. The standard route for years on Crestone Peak was the wet, loose, and hairball NW Couloir via Bears Playground instead of the current and much easier Red Gully. Seems like the most recent change on standard routes has been El Diente via the more solid Kilpacker instead of the traditional North Slopes route. The rise in popularity of the Kilpacker route, I bet, is almost directly attributable to trip reports posted on this website.

[Sean Nunn]

Oman,

Not to hijack the OP, but for the benefit of the uninitiated, is there another name for the "red gully route" you are describing up Crestone Peak? Would that be the same thing as what Roach calls the South Slopes, from either South Colony Lakes or Cottonwood Creek?

[Oman]

Red Gully = Bill's South Face.