Belford -> Missouri

[Boggy B]

Just wondering.. how is this usually done? I'm guessing the least elevation-intensive method is Elkhead Pass. Looks like you have to regain 1,000' from there. Also the ridge looks pretty fun and a little bit hairy.

Anyone know?


Thanks!

[Doctor No]

Elkhead Pass would work.

Roach suggests doing Missouri's Northwest Ridge, and then dropping into Missouri Gulch to climb the west side of Belford.

[MtHurd]

Also the ridge looks pretty fun and a little bit hairy.

Roach's book I think describes the ridge as incredibly loose. Doesn't sound that fun to me.

[ptwobbabs]

are you considering the northwest ridge or the east ridge? i've downclimbed the east ridge in winter......although it was a few years ago......ok, i'm old, like ten years ago. i remember having all the confidence of youth that it would work out fine, which it did, but i'm not sure i would do it again. the main issue is time, i think it would actually be quicker to descend more and use the north couloirs if the snow is good than to use the ridgeline and save altitude. whatever works for you! have fun.

[Monster5]

There are supposed to be ~4 different routes involving Elkshead Pass- high, medium, and low (x2). The high route takes you on top of the ridge with a class 5 crux (Roach claims a loose c4 chimney) on heavily jointed rock. The medium route takes you across the top of the talus cones while still at the base of the rock cliffs. After this section, you will come to a series of VERY loose chutes giving way to a scree slope (start working your way up the sides of the chutes before you reach this point). The low route on the backside of Elkshead requires you to climb down into the basin and then climb/switchback back up the same loose scree (unless you want to spend a lot of time going around it). The low route on the front side of the pass takes you to the standard Missouri trail (very time-consuming).

I'd recommend taking the medium route, staying at the base of the cliffs and on top of the loose rock. After you pass the obvious window in the ridge (sorry - no pics), start climbing diagonally up (using the solid rock as much as possible) in order to avoid most of the loose stuff. The outcrops after the window begin to dip at a shallower angle; working your way up and across will keep the difficulty below class 4. If you hit the scree slope before you've had a chance to gain the ridge, start going straight up and stick to the solid outcrops. The scree slope is pretty nasty with very little purchase. Descend the standard trail.

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[Boggy B]

Awesome! I guess I hadn't considered skirting the ridge. Thanks all for the suggestions--probably go with the "medium" route as described.

[sgladbach]

IMO,

The normal summer/fall routes explained by Monster5 are right on for their appropriate season. I did the exact route he outlined in red for the 14ers.com fall gathering; it was very fun. I had never tried to bag the three in a day before, and it worked well.

However, I would not do it in winter (or even 3 days before winter! .) The reference to the lower route killed a gentleman in 2003.
http://avalanche.state.co.us/pub/accide ... t=20030222

The middle route also has slide potential as well as slabby sections which are likely to be icy. The high route would be safest, but, as Monster5 explained, it has the most technical climbing.

IF I were to attempt Missouri after Belford in winter, I'd go ahead and lose the extra 500' and follow an adaptation of the standeard route; ignore the trail route (which you probably won't see) and follow ribs. Finding safe ribs will be a challenge.

CO Native, last month:
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ki=Include

Missouri in winter should be tackled alone by most of us. On one winter ascent, I used the Vicksburg TH and climbed to the timberline cabin remnant. After another 300' elevation or so, I made a beeline for the North ridge trying to use a timbered route. It was an arduous day. My descent was along ribs near the standard route.

Muy next winter trip used a MUCH easier/safer route involving backpacking to the Rockdale TH. In the morning I made a daytrip climb of the West Ridge (Clohesy Lake) route from the summer 2WD TH. This is my winter recommendation.

It is not easy to find a good eastern route in winter on Missouri unless the avy danger is low. Belford/Oxford, on the other hand, is a long but reasonable (and usually safe) day.

BTW, have you checked w/ sherrif or road department (or 14ers.com!) to see if you can still get to Vicksburg TH?