Longs winter bivy

[fletchersteel]

I was reading the RMNP climbing page and noticied that during winter, they allow tents at the bivy sites. How nice of them! Just curious about the rules of it. Do they charge the normal $20 a night during the winter to camp in the boulderfield, and what is the charge for the bivy permit during winter. $20 seems pretty steep to camp out up there during the winter, heck, it seems steep even for summer. Also, any idea what the bivy permit cost for the summer season, let's say for rock climbing in glacier gorge? I'm just trying to clear some stuff up in my head for some future climbs. Honestly, I'd like to just camp up there this winter to test out some gear on our Mt Washington.

[BaronVonBergschrund]

I was reading the RMNP climbing page and noticied that during winter, they allow tents at the bivy sites. How nice of them! Just curious about the rules of it. Do they charge the normal $20 a night during the winter to camp in the boulderfield, and what is the charge for the bivy permit during winter. $20 seems pretty steep to camp out up there during the winter, heck, it seems steep even for summer. Also, any idea what the bivy permit cost for the summer season, let's say for rock climbing in glacier gorge? I'm just trying to clear some stuff up in my head for some future climbs. Honestly, I'd like to just camp up there this winter to test out some gear on our Mt Washington.

I do not believe that they charge for camping in the wintertime. I believe that you can fill out a backcountry camping permit at the entrance and self-submit the permit, no reservations required. Call the backcountry office to verify this. In the summer time there is a $20 fee for a permit for bivy areas (like Glacier Gorge underneath Spearhead, Chasm Lake, etc.) but this fee is for any number of days as long as there are available bivy slots. It is basically a processing fee, not a per-day bivy fee. You must be climbing a technical route of a certain length to get a bivy permit, you cannot bivy for just any route. Part of the form asks you what color your rope is, I assume this is to ensure you are actually bivying for a route and not lying about doing a technical climb.

[fletchersteel]

Thanks baron,
That's good to know that it is not a daily charge. I've camped summertime at the glacier gorge spot, but it's a bit pricey. That's crazy about the rope color, but I understand that it is a privalege that the park grants to technical climbers. There is so many great climbs in there, I just hope I can get a few in this summer!

[TomPierce]

Yeah, they don't charge the $20 fee during non-peak season (I believe October through May, for sure Nov-April). Permits are self-issued and on the east approach trail the box with envelopes is affixed to the sign-in kiosk. They do want you to camp/bivy in designated sites, e.g. the rock rings in the Boulderfield but I've never heard of any enforcement in the winter, ie try to comply but if things hit the fan I seriously doubt they'd prefer you freeze to death trying to comply. The Park's backcountry just isn't regularly patrolled in the winter or at least super infrequently, e.g. I occasionally see a ranger's signature (Jim Detterline) on the Longs summit register in the winter. They have a few other regs they want you to follow, e.g. 70 paces from running water (hardly an issue on Longs Peak in the winter... ), limit stays to 14 days, no fires, etc. Let me know when you're up there, I'm often passing through and if our plans sync up I'll swing by and say howdy.
-Tom

[fletchersteel]

Cool! Thanks Tom! It's on the list for this winter. I don't think I am ready for a winter climb yet, but the North Face is awefully tempting! And being Colorado's Mt Washington, there's gotta be plenty of "running water" up there in winter. :D I'll let you know when, but it'll be a saturday night. Are you into a north face climb with a green horn? I might be able to get off early enough on friday to make it to the boulderfield before it gets too late.

[TomPierce]

Hey fletcher:
I have a pretty full climbing wish list for this winter, BUT...I've thought about trying to organize a group climb up Longs maybe in very late winter, ie 3rd week in March. Not for sure but maybe. If so (and again not certain) interested?
-Tom

[fletchersteel]

Tom, yes i'd be interested. Later part of march sounds good, gives me more time to lose those holiday pounds! :D Keep me in mind if you come up with something. I'll let you know if I head up that way anytime soon.
Jerry

[PolishPete]

It's funny you mentioned that Tom. Aaron and I were just exchanging emails earlier today about late March.

[David Connolly]

I'm hoping to pull off a solo climb before this winters end, which gives me until March 20 technically. Anyway this evening I read on your 9news.com website your weatherman is saying El Nino might cause light snowfall for Jan. and Feb. then bring it down heavy March and April. I don't know how much faith anyone else puts in weather forecasting.

[Redleg Bruce]

I don't know how much faith anyone else puts in weather forecasting.

None.

[Easy Rider]

relevant info, just bumping it

[fletchersteel]

I'm hoping to pull off a solo climb before this winters end, which gives me until March 20 technically. Anyway this evening I read on your 9news.com website your weatherman is saying El Nino might cause light snowfall for Jan. and Feb. then bring it down heavy March and April. I don't know how much faith anyone else puts in weather forecasting.

Our good friend El Nino! I haven't heard much about the long term, but judging on this winter so far, I'd be jan and feb are below on temps while march and april we get dumped on. KOAA said the other day that december was the 2nd coldest on record, behind 1983. It's funny, I didn't think it was all that bad, I've probably lost it! :D