Crestone Peak, Humboldt Peak climb

[bking14ers]

If I were to camp at South Colony Lakes, how difficult would it be to climb up the south face of Crestone Peak, with a Humboldt Peak climb on the return trip via the Northwest Couloir Route? How long would that be?

[MtHurd]

It would be a pretty long day unless you are in really good shape, but it's doable. For much of the year, crampons and an axe will be required for your descent down the couloir and at times it can be dangerous (especially if you are not good at self-arrest). Other than that, there isn't really any other thing to be concerned with. I'd say at an average speed your probably looking at 11 or 12 hours, but that's just a wild guess.

[bking14ers]

Thanks Barry, I am planning on doing this in August this year. I hope by then the snow is gone, is it?

[Kevin8020]

Snow will definitely be gone by then this year unless we keep getting snow unusually late into the year. Last year, I was up in mid-august for a number of climbs in the South Colony region and never had to deal with snow

[MtHurd]

90% chance you won't have snow in August, especially later on in August, unless there is some freak snowstorm, but in that case the snow should be soft enough so it won't be so treacherous. Just because there is no snow at South Colony Lakes though doesn't mean there won't be any in that couloir. It's pretty shady and dark in there so snow stays around a while.

Watch for your exit point as the couloir ends in a cliff.

[highpilgrim]

Watch for your exit point as the couloir ends in a cliff.

Might be better to do Crestone Peak and Needle as a pair and do Humboldt the next day or another time. Down climbing the North couloir without knowing where the exit is and what the conditions will be could pose some problems. That couloir holds snow and hard ice through some summers, mixed with loose gravel and less traffic to clear out the debris. If I was going to descend it, I'd climb it first for sure. That just me though; I like climbing iffy terrain first before trying to descend it.

Of course you could reverse the route and do Humboldt first and then you would be downclimbing the south couloir after climbing the north side, something I would be more comfortable with.

Just my two cents.