Ropes on the Bells traverse?

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Neuder
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Ropes on the Bells traverse?

Post by Neuder »

I am wondering if you all think it would be worth it to use ropes on the traverse. We would probably go South to North. I have done alot of research on this famous traverse and am super interested in it. I do alot of rock climbing and would be fine without ropes, but my dad woundn't. I was thinking I could solo it and set up a anchor to belay him up? I don't think it would be nessicary for me to lead it, but if I did would there be any placements? Any thoughts or ideas would be really appreciated. Thanks for the help. Neuder
Steaky
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Re: Ropes on the Bells traverse?

Post by Steaky »

...If your dad cant make it up without a rope, bring a rope! Or, dont bring your dad.

None of the climbing is hard (in dry conditions). In wet, icy, or snowy conditions, the exposed ledges can be very difficult to traverse or downclimb.

We went S to N. On I believe Spire 1, One soloed the climb, built an anchor using nuts, and belayed the rest of us up. This was after one person with no rock climbing experience soloed it anyway. The anchor was marginal but probably would have held a fall. We all free soloed the crux because we were short on time. I'd call it 5.5, though looking at beta now it appears there was a slightly easier option.

The only kind of placements you're going to get are with nuts and/or building deadman anchors. A half-set of stoppers and some webbing/cordelette should suffice. 100' of rope max.

I'd bring a rope, but I usually bring a rope or webbing on anything rated Class 4 anyway, just in case.
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jf32
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Re: Ropes on the Bells traverse?

Post by jf32 »

I did it twice south to north. I have no rock climbing experience but I am quite comfortable with exposure and scrambling. I didn't have any need or desire for a rope.

That said - if you think your dad will need one bring it along.
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Re: Ropes on the Bells traverse?

Post by CO Native »

I did the traverse without using ropes however we had a small kit of the basics. It's just nice to keep your options open should you need to bail or someone balk at one of the cruxes.
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