Last pitch on Mt Wilson

[Carl]

You could avoid the ridge altogether and climb from Kilpacker. It's not as steep as it looks in this pic. It is loose, but I don't recall it being that bad. I also don't remember the exposure being bad, but like CO Native says, it's subjective.

There's a TR or two (with pics) describing the descent of this route. The posters thought it was reasonable class three without much exposure but like much of that area was loose. One of them recommeded it as a snow climb but thought that it would go even dry.

I'll try to find a link.

Those sound like comments I made in a TR describing the descent of this route http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=8384

There are a few other TRs on this site that should be useful for anyone contemplating a variation of this alternate route, one of which ascends in snow.

[highpilgrim]

Thanks, Carl. That's helpful.

[susanjoypaul]

I was with Floyd for this clusterf**k, and agree that a rope is not only unnecessary, but that using one will ensure that you're the least popular person on the mountain that day. This group caused a major backup, with people milling around aimlessly, with nothing to do but wait. I believe it was Mr. Floyd who took matters in to his own hands and asserted our right to pass by. Thanks.
BTW, I am not tall and not a rock climber, and found the exposed section's solid rock to fall short of its class 4 billing. The rock is solid and holds are plentiful.
Good luck.

+1 to everything Matt (and Floyd) says here... At 5'5" I'm the *first* one to complain about all the good holds being out of reach, but I had no problems at all on Wilson and wouldn't have wanted a rope up there. DHatfield's trip report with a few photos of that area is here.

That said, "CO Native" makes a good point in that "everyone's comfort level is different." If you really think you need a rope, then bring one. I doubt if you'll need it, though. And consider going mid-week, so there will be less traffic and you won't feel rushed, or hold up other climbers.

Now the loose rock you have to deal with getting up to that point... well, that's a different story. Wear a helmet.

[kamiller43]

Thanks for all of the replies. Seems that this "scary" pitch has been way over hyped. My experience has been that the 14er horror moves are always exaggerated (e.g "knife edge" on Kelso ridge). I guess I'll leave the rope at home.

[Alpinista]

I'm assuming that everyone telling OP to leave the rope at home is very familiar with OP's experience and climbing ability? Risky business otherwise, and the advice "if *you* think you might need it, bring it" is much more prudent.

However, I wonder a bit at the numerous comments that the rock on the ridge is "solid." Both times I've done this route, I've seen or had multi-hundred pound rocks shift alarmingly - often ones that appeared to be "good handholds." Perhaps some folks don't regularly test holds and just assume that big granite blocks are "solid?" Much of the ridge is a bunch of blocks stacked on top of one another. For *that* reason (and not to do with perceived rock solidity, exposure, or technical difficulty), I would not recommend using a rope and pro unless the climber is VERY experienced at judging protection placements else you're as likely to pull a block down on top of you in a fall as anything. A climber with this requisite amount of experience is not likely to feel the need for rope/pro on this route.

As stated elsewhere, a rappel is not practical due to the largely traversing nature of the final ridge-let.