Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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Delos
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Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by Delos »

I am considering climbing these 3 during the week of June 10th but am unsure of typical conditions at that time. Any suggestions on climbing those 3 during early June? Thanks.
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Jim Davies
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by Jim Davies »

The Trip Report page has an option to select by peak and month. You can probably find several representative reports there. I'd guess "snowy", but the way this winter has been going, who knows...
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Carl
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by Carl »

Last year you could wear trail runners and bring an axe for the short sections of snow above treeline. Below is a pic from the summit of Mt. Wilson in early June two years ago when snowline started at 10,000ft. A typical year is somewhere in between. We're below average snowpack now but things can change. Ask again in May. And in the meantime you can check out the TRs as Jim suggests.
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by SurfNTurf »

We did Mt. Wilson and Wilson Peak from Navajo Basin late last May, in an abysmally low snow year.

If you're comfortable on snow, climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger. The tradeoff is that the cruxes and routefinding are a little more "interesting."

El Diente is far easier from the Kilpacker side in dry summer conditions.
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by GeezerClimber »

We climbed Wilson Peak last year on 6/19 from the rock of ages TH. The north slope leading to the ROA saddle was a frustrating combo of deep, soft snow and wet, soft scree. An ice axe was necessary and I used the shaft to help me through the scree. It took a long time. Once past the saddle, there was no snow but plenty remained on Mt Wilson's north face. Bear in mind that last year's snow pack was one of the lightest ever. I think an early June climb on these three in a typical year should only be attempted by parties with a lot of snow climbing experience. I'll bet it's a great experience for those who qualify.

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Fisching
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by Fisching »

SurfNTurf wrote:We did Mt. Wilson and Wilson Peak from Navajo Basin late last May, in an abysmally low snow year.

If you're comfortable on snow, climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger. The tradeoff is that the cruxes and routefinding are a little more "interesting."

El Diente is far easier from the Kilpacker side in dry summer conditions.
The portion of ice we did on the crux just below the summit of Mt. Wilson would be my definition of "sketch." And the route remaining from Wilson Peak's false summit to its true summit was no different in regards to the icy conditions. It was a slow moving process to carefully gain the summit. Maybe it will be warmer when you intend to do it (we did it on a colder-than-usual Memorial Day weekend), and it'll diminish these concerns.
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by dillonsarnelli »

SurfNTurf wrote:climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger
i hear it's a tad bit windy in Navajo Basin though...
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by wildlobo71 »

dillonsarnelli wrote:
SurfNTurf wrote:climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger
i hear it's a tad bit windy in Navajo Basin though...
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Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Post by Fisching »

SurfNTurf wrote: Climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger.
Daytrippinng it also mitigates marmot danger. Don't underestimate this factor.
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Peter Aitchison on the risks of rock climbing and mountaineering: "That's life, isn't it? We think the challenge and satisfaction you get from doing this is worth the risks."
"Respect the mountain. Train hard. Hope you can sneak up when it isn't looking."
"The mind is always worried about consequences, but the heart knows no fear. The heart just does what it wants."
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